Moto GP / GP bike enthusiasts

Bushpig wrote:

looking good. The colours look very authentic, I have never quite been satisfied when I have followed the Tamiya guidelines The clutch looks superb, is it the metal one in the kit? What did you use for the bolts on the clutch, they look great. Man that Ducati was fast yesterday, a full 12km / hour top speed on the next fastest, some advantage!

The top speed of the Ducati was mind blowing.  It's one thing to draft pass another bike, it completely different when you pass them as if they were standing still.  Rossi was pulling every trick he had out.  Good job by Stoner to stick to his guns.

The clutch is from the Tamiya 06 front fork kit.  What I didn't take into consideration is the fact that the 06 Satelite team essentially uses an 05 factory bike (they get the left overs from the previous years).  The bike clutch would be more accurate had I used the standard RC211V fork set.

Thanks for the compliment! 

Wolfpac: Your engine work looks very promising and spot on regarding the colors! keep that up and you'll end up with a real stunner!

Bushpig: Use superglue for the resin parts. Apply small amounts to be able to separate the parts if you go wrong. I usually add more glue from the inside of say the lower cowl halves as soon as I get them in the right position.

On the primer issue I'm with SeaBee. You'll definately have to prime the resin parts. I'd also suggest that you give them a really good wash with a mild detergent and water to get the mold release grease off. I go over them with a tooth brush and I've also tried covering the parts with oven cleaner to be sure to get that stuff off. I'd hate to see some paint lift from applying some masking tape or what ever. Better to be on the safe side. As SeaBee sais the grey primer really picks out what you've missed during puttying.

/Joel

Hi guys!

Modelling has been down for a while. Haven't felt for it but now I'm up and running again.

For you that have built the spiderman M1, how did you go about the painting of the two tone scheme? Does the maskings supplied with the Tamiya Fortuna M1 fit the spidy scheme or are the areas different? And, did you spray red, then blue and put the decals on last or did you do the red, decal those areas, clear and spray the blue... I've been thinking of this for quite a while know and haven't comeclose to how to go about it...

 /Joel

Hi Joel, all of this from a rather foggy memory,having done it last year sometime. With me, this morning is a stretch, esp according to my wife!

The Fortuna decals supplied with the #33 version worked 100% as a mask for me. I went for it with the red (over white primer, of course). Make sure it dries properly, though, my TS36 stayed slightly tacky for quite a while. After giving the whole thing a clearcoat, I then used the supplied masks, bar one for the indented red on the cowl (but that goes without saying, he says, having just said it...)  to mask.

Then I went for a alum/silver paint, which gave me superb coverage. Just one layer and no more red! Having mucked around a bit a while ago, I also found that to bring out the blue best. Of course, that was applied everywhere the blue goes, not just the masked red areas, for consistency in the blue (eg. fuel tank cover).

Applied the blue, said a few prayers (that were heard) and took of the masks. Then cleared, decalled, cleared. If you use the SMS decals, you WILL curse at your first encounter with their spiderweb decals, but they are superb! Absolutely no carrier film between strands, so wet the area properly so you have time to slide it around - you'll need it!

Work slowly! Enjoy and good luck. Still the best scheme out there!  

Strange how "the feeling" at times just deserts you and you just don't feel like building. Know what you're talking about. Glad you're back at it! 

BTW, some pics now available of the *drool* Kawasaki...

Thanks SeaBee, I really need some pepping for this build. Seems like a hard kit to do justice when you even pick out a S27 transkit rather than doing this one...

I got some Zero Custom Paint from Hiroboy.com that I will try for the Spidy bike. Don't think I'll need the silver base for that one but I had the same idea if I was going for Tamiya blue.

Well, I guess I just have to get in there.

On the kawasaki matter the seat/tank cowl are now in oven cleaner as the primer didn't go on to well on the resin. Got really messy actually but I can't figure out why. Worked well on the side cowls. Can have been slightly to cold perhaps. Well well, I'm back at it next week.

this weekend I'm off to run a half marathon in Gothemburg (Second largest city in Sweden) Wich me luck.

/Joel

Wow that Kwaka does look nice. I think I may build it just for the sheer enjoyment of something else other than a Honda / Yammie. Also nice one Tamiya attacking our pockets with an almost simultaneous release of a fork set!!!!!!!!! Any chance they'll bring out a Rizla Suzuki, that is also an awesome livery.

Whilst we are at it does any one have a view why tamiya stopped producing Superbikes, seemed to be pretty consistent a few years ago then nothing. Would love to put together some of those.

My NSR going slowly, I thought I would be at it for hours at a time but seems to be the modelling doldrums have hit us all, just can't seem to get going. Anyway i am sure it will gain momentum soon enough.

Let me know how you like the Zero Paints.  I ordered them for my Konica Minolta build and my upcoming 05 Movistar build (i haven't received them yet).  I keep hearing bad things about Tamiya clear and the Tamiya decals.  Anyone have any input on this?

 Joel, can you use oven cleaner to clean paint off as well?  I messed up the front fender and layed a wet coat too thick.  Although sanding is required when building models, it doesn't mean I like to do it   If I can get away with out having to sand down the whole thing the happier I would be.

If anyone needs some motivation for building, check this build out

http://www.spc.org.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4452

just finished the Minolta bike and decals, Zero paint is awesome and the TS13 went over it prior to decals. I gave panels 2 coats of Tamiya white primer and let dry 2 hours before I used the white Pearl at 25 psi.  The pearl is fantastic and just the right size fleck, trust me I measured each tiny fleck, lol. ;-)

When the clear dried apx 1 day I slowly applied decals and used Mr Softer decal sol'n, wonderful.  The pearl is base coat and dries flat, but 1 coat of clear will do and then after decals dry I will coat 1 more time. Cartograf decals need soaking a while but stick like heck.

Rod.

ps, I also used the fluro orange over white for the wheels on the Pedrossa RCv, needed 5-6 coats but looks tremendous when 2 coats of clear used. I set my s/brush using #5 needles and am happy wih coverage.  like anything, just build up coats. 

I used to use brake fluid to remove paint though have heard it does not work with tamiya enamels for some reason.

Rod I hope we are going to see some pics of your bike?

wolfpac wrote:

If anyone needs some motivation for building, check this build out http://www.spc.org.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4452

UN....FREAKIN....BELIEVABLE.

wolfpac wrote:

Joel, can you use oven cleaner to clean paint off as well?

 Well, no, that was a slip of hand. I meant brake fluid. Sorry.

/Joel

joelrydh wrote:

wolfpac wrote:   Joel, can you use oven cleaner to clean paint off as well?   Well, no, that was a slip of hand. I meant brake fluid. Sorry. /Joel

 And to make things even more confusing, I'll change that once more... I read at another forum that brake fluid isn't the solution for resin parts as some types react to the brake fluid. I got the tip to use nitro thinner instead, and as my slip of hand wrote in the first post, even the stronger oven cleaners can actually do the job accoring to the guys at AF.

/Joel

SeaBee wrote:

Hey Joel, how did the race go?!

;-)  It went better than I hoped for. Have had some troubles with my knees for the last couple of months but they worked all the way through. Ended up at 1.43 wich feels satisfying for the time beeing.

/Joel

To show my good will and do some progress on this GB I've done some job on the Kawa while planning ahead on the Spidy build. I've fitted the cowls together, puttied, sanded and primed, puttied sanded primed leaving me with this for a base to be painted.

Worst part to get smooth was the lower cowl and I didn't quite get the surface to level inside the air intake of the top cowl. Finally I just left it as it was and hopefully that won't be too visible.

Off to some base painting. This is my first attempt on using the Zero Base Paints that can be aquired from Hiroboy.com. I've heard a lot about this paint and was really up to try it. It didn't leave me unsatisfied. I painted the parts at a preassure of approximately 20 psi and giving the parts 6 or 7 mist coats from a distance of 10 cm (4 inches). The paint dries flat and the first part was possible to have a new layer painted as soon as I put the second one down. No need for wet coats as the paint will be clear coated to get its final look.

Here's a few shots:

The Kawasaki Lime green color has a pearl effect wich can be viewed on these pictures where the part is held to the light:

Next I'll clear coat the parts and mask the side cowls off to paint the black section on the under cowl.

Hope you like it, I think the green colored livery is a real stunner myself.
/Joel

Looks great, Joel! Glad to see that Kawa green looks so good, mine is on it's way here. Can't wait for that kit to come out.

Finished up the 2003 Rossi ride. Only had chance for one snap, side-on. Zero paints was great, the kit was good, decals good... Tamiya clear not so good. Think my next shipment from Steve will have his clear in it. Maybe that's why I'm a bit miffed at an otherwise nice-enough-if-not-spectacular bike. The clear did bugger up some of the decals a bit. Took the pic without a flash as well, so the dark blue shows a bit darker than it does irl.

I've stopped using that TS-13 completely. Not worth the chance. I've been using the Modelers' Super Clear with great result and will try the 2K system from Hiroboy on the Kawa.

The Repsol bike looks really nice, I'm afraid of that livery.... Maybe with the Zero paint I'd take my chances... The exhaust looks a bit on the dull side though, think you could have done a bit more to bring that one to life [digs elbow in the side of the south african].

/Joel

Looking good both of you. I am surprised at your views on the tamiya TS clear. I have only used their X22 gloss enamel clear for years and have always been very pleased with the results. Never had any decal problems, never an issue with paint compatibilty and so on. Goes on really nicely with an airbrush as well. Just for what thats worth!

My NSR Mugello from rennaisance is coming along. I can't say that I am totally thrilled, this is my first attempt at a resin kit so am having a few difficulties but we'll see how it all comes together. I must say I am a little disappointed with the decals, the graphics are great but the carrier film a little thicker than say a cartograph so I am really struggling to get a smooth finish around some of the bendy bits. Ah well, once it's in among the other kits should look OK.

Lets hope the ducati doesn't run away with it again this weekend, vive le Rossi

Extracting an elbow from my ribcage... You're almost right, Joel! The exhaust was done with the Tamiya weathering set. Worked great! I used the goldish finish on the pipes and there's some nice blue on the join to the "silencer". It does not come out in the pic, though! Will take another over the weekend.

Most impressive about this colour system was the blue. It's a black you put on first. Then clear purple. WT....?! (my thoughts exactly!) And then you clear of choice. And it does not look blue till you hit it with the clear, then it absolutely jumps to life!

Anyways, all enjoy the weekend. My LCR had JUST arrived this afternoon... *evil grin* 

Okay, attached the exhaust pic. Again, excuse the bad digicam casting shadows from it's own flash... *sigh* You'll also see more clearly some of the TS clear damage on the decals. Not to mention a nice fingerprint!

Opened up the LCR and gave it some acetone. Very interested to see the new bodywork and exhaust. Also quite interesting to see the grey sprue seemingly just being duplicated from the 2003 version. Lots of duplicated parts there, straight from the 2003 version, but replacement parts on other sprues. Impressed at first sight, looks very crips and looking forward to doing this one!

Exhaust looks great actually, what I ment was the muffler where the ribbings looks a bit molded in (wich they in fact are...) could perhaps be separated with some black wash along the sides? Hopefully I succeed in this attempt in being constructive here... Just ignore the finger print, when it's on the shelf no one will ever notice ;-)

The Zero paint system for this scheme sounds absolutely nuts but I'll take your word for it, perhaps I'll try it one day. If I reach some success with the Spiderman livery I promise to give a repsol bike a go, after the spidy scheme a repsol bike seems the hardest to accomplish...

 /Joel

Ahhhhh ! Thanks for pointing it out! (Really!) I actually have a decal left over from another build that's meant to have done the black lines down. Guess with the disgustedness of the clear, I just wanted to get it done and over with and forgot that. Will add the decal. Thanks Joel, really just missed it. *Slaps head and promises himself to concentrate on the next one!*

As for the Repsol scheme: you'll never guess how simple it actually is! Actually very little masking... come to think of it, I don't recall ANY masking to be done on the 2003 bike. The top fairing and tank cover is painted orange, bottom half, seat cowl, and nose is painted blue. The rest is decals...

Hoo Boy, more misery with this NSR mixed media kit! I have primed the resin chassis parts, painted on the gloss black and then Alclad 2 chrome, the results were really great, stunning shine. However I have now noticed that through normal handling (ie attaching engine etc) a lot of the chrome is now rubbing off! This is leaving dark lines on any raised bits, not to mention being re-deposited on other parts of the bike, and is fast ruining the build.

Are you supposed to put a clear coat over the chrome???

Interestingly for the first time ever I had some tamiya decals disintegrate on me this weekend. I dont know if it is because it was really cold here but who knows. Fortunately managed to rescue them but caused a lot of heart murmurs for a while (not to mention expletives!)

Bushpig wrote:

Are you supposed to put a clear coat over the chrome???

 No you are not supposed to clear coat Alclad II, but what you are supposed to do is to put it on top of an ENAMEL gloss black paint. If you used a laquer or synthetic acrylic paint it is my experience that the chrome paint tend to rub off when handled. If you did put it on top of an enamel base I would say it is down to the material benieth. Perhaps it was a bit greasy wich makes the paint come off (was it resin parts?)

When it comes to my own progress I had a tough set back this morning when someone pointed out that the Kawasaki ZX-RR 03 has a solid green paint, not candy. I can't tell you how many times I've looked at the Pit Stop Collection series for references but when ordering the paint I just took what said Kawasaki Green not giving it much thought that they could use different green paints. Oh bugger, out comes the thinner....

/Joel

Tough one Joel. I guess this is what makes this hobby so compelling, there is always room for imrovement. frustrating though!

I did lay the chrome onto a gloss enamel base, took all your advice as well and gave the resin parts a good cleaning, tamyia grey base coat, then the gloss, allowed to dry for a week before applying the alclad chrome. I also left this for a couple of days to dry before handling. I think I can touch it up so all is not lost. Otherwise progressing, should be done in a few days, work permitting

Yes I know, I'll get it sorted out, somehow. I'm thinking of just painting the solid color right on top of the pearl one, I'll just have to test it on some scratch piece.

If you did just that I'm out of ideas of what can have happened. Perhaps there was a bit too little amount of chrome on the welds and edges that it came off during handling. Are the parts mounted or can you give them another layer?

/Joel

While not doing much progress perhaps I can show you the result of the candy lime green? It turned out very well as a matter of fact.

This is acomplished by some layers of primer, six mist coats of Zero paint topped with one mist and two wet coats of two part clear. Not the hard work as I most often have with getting good glossy finishes with gloss paint.

/Joel

SeaBee: Can you tell me how you did with the honey comb decals on your spidy build? I read a lot about people spraying a mist coat of clear blue on top of them to get the right look. I'm not too fond of using acrylig clear as it is quite fragile which excludes the Tamiya range of clear acrylics. There has to ba a way to do this and still be able to use the standard range of clear coats. Any one now of a laquer clear blue? Or perhaps I can just mist on the base color...

/Joel

Joel, sorry... I never did the blue over it and kept it as-is. As for the blue clear options - I think barring Tamiya clear blue (acryl or enamel) that the one other I can think of is Alclad. Pretty sure I saw them having a clear range of paints...

That green looks great! Glad I ordered it. Still waiting for my order (which includes that green) to arrive. Last time it took two weeks and it was just short of Christmas time with all the postage flowing around then. By now it's been 3 weeks. If the collection slip's not there today, I'll phone tomorrow to hear whether it was not just my collection slip that got lost! (It's happened before...)