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Prototype GB All Era's

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  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Bridgeview, Illinois
Posted by mg.mikael on Saturday, April 18, 2009 5:57 PM

Well, I was finally able to do a bit of work on my multiplane today. That probably had something to do with the fact it was 70 degrees outside and sunny.Cool [8D] Thus that meant it was very comfortable in the garage today, where I had to do the sawing.

To get the final positioning of the two main "planks" I had to do some simple mathematics. Basically done by doing some measurements of the wing frame and eyeing it. Since there are no dimensions out there of the positioning of the two main "planks." But the overall result I believe was suprisingly not that bad. (Had to tape down the frame so I wouldn't lose the positioning I wanted.)

To cut the support truss for the main frame, you'll need a miter box and a saw(almost any saw should suffice.) For the support "planks" I used the same wood and same size, 0.20 X 0.30. (In order to save time I cut this piece at the same time I was cutting the wood that I would later use for the two main "planks".)

To make sure I didn't get too much splintering of the edges or cracking, I slightly notched all the sides of the wood I'd be cutting with a razor blade.

Here's all the support "planks" for the main frame cut to about the needed size. (Yeah, I know it looks more like a ship then a plane currently.Wink [;)]) I made sure my cuts were bigger then I needed, since I still need to sand down the edges to have a slight curve, in order to fit perfectly in between the two main "planks."

Now I have to get out the sanding paper/sponges and start the task of sanding. I have an electric sander(might try it on these small pieces, but only if I feel it's necessary to speed things up.)

"A good plan executed now is better than a perfect plan next week." - George S. Patton

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  • Member since
    June 2008
Posted by lewbud on Saturday, April 18, 2009 8:34 PM

Mg,

You've probably already thought of this (by now you maybe done), but if you put your main "planks" on top of the cross pieces, you can trace the inside curve.  Then you can trim with your saw (if possible) before sanding.

Buddy- Those who say there are no stupid questions have never worked in customer service.

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Bridgeview, Illinois
Posted by mg.mikael on Saturday, April 18, 2009 11:17 PM
 lewbud wrote:

Mg,

You've probably already thought of this (by now you maybe done), but if you put your main "planks" on top of the cross pieces, you can trace the inside curve.  Then you can trim with your saw (if possible) before sanding.

Good tip, and that's what I'll be doing before I start the sanding. Though I don't think I'll be using the saw anymore, since it would just raise the chances of splintering the wood. Maybe I'll use a scapel or something. 

"A good plan executed now is better than a perfect plan next week." - George S. Patton

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  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Algonquin, IL
Posted by model geek on Tuesday, April 21, 2009 10:19 PM

Mg.mikael,

Lookin good! Are you enjoying the scratch building and absence of instructions?

All,

Sorry for the absence, the PC was wounded in actionBlack Eye [B)] and recovering in a field hospital for 10 days. Now we're back at the front and ready for actionBig Smile [:D].

Broke the "honey do list" rule and started on the HE-100D. Following are some pics and narrative of progress to date.

Contents of kit. Nice little PE set included. Otherwise pretty basic kit.

Because the cockpit was so basic I decided to take a crack at adding some styrene bits and extra PE details from other kits.

The details are most likely not to scale but I was happy with the results for the first try at scratch building details.

Cockpit ready for paint.

Built this jig to assemble individual prop blades. Instructions courtsey of IPMS Stockholm web site.

And the results.

Next up a wash for the cockpit and the assembly of major compenents.

Thanks for looking.

Tom  

 

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Fox Lake, Il., USA
Posted by spiralcity on Wednesday, April 22, 2009 12:53 PM
 model geek wrote:

Mg.mikael,

Lookin good! Are you enjoying the scratch building and absence of instructions?

All,

Sorry for the absence, the PC was wounded in actionBlack Eye [B)] and recovering in a field hospital for 10 days. Now we're back at the front and ready for actionBig Smile [:D].

Broke the "honey do list" rule and started on the HE-100D. Following are some pics and narrative of progress to date.

Contents of kit. Nice little PE set included. Otherwise pretty basic kit.

Because the cockpit was so basic I decided to take a crack at adding some styrene bits and extra PE details from other kits.

The details are most likely not to scale but I was happy with the results for the first try at scratch building details.

Cockpit ready for paint.

Built this jig to assemble individual prop blades. Instructions courtsey of IPMS Stockholm web site.

And the results.

Next up a wash for the cockpit and the assembly of major compenents.

Thanks for looking.

 

Excellent Model geek, keep us posted as this progresses.

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Bridgeview, Illinois
Posted by mg.mikael on Wednesday, April 22, 2009 7:41 PM

Looks like your build is comin' along nicely (and quickly, that is when compared to my buildWink [;)]), model geek!!

You now it's a strange thing.......I enjoy the freedom to do what I want, when I want, when I'm scratching. Yet I sorta miss the crutch of instructions, since instructions always gives you an answer to part placement and etc. But overall I enjoy the freedom from any restraints other then the reference pics.Cool [8D]

"A good plan executed now is better than a perfect plan next week." - George S. Patton

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  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Bridgeview, Illinois
Posted by mg.mikael on Friday, April 24, 2009 4:32 PM

Another nice day here in the Chicagoland (80's and sunny), plus it's Friday!!!!!Cool [8D] Thus I feel invigorated to get the glue out and start gluing together the frame. Hopefully I'll get some pics up tommorrow.

Hmmm......maybe I'll even take the mountain bike out to a nearby trail.

"A good plan executed now is better than a perfect plan next week." - George S. Patton

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  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Fox Lake, Il., USA
Posted by spiralcity on Friday, April 24, 2009 5:24 PM
 mg.mikael wrote:

Another nice day here in the Chicagoland (80's and sunny), plus it's Friday!!!!!Cool [8D] Thus I feel invigorated to get the glue out and start gluing together the frame. Hopefully I'll get some pics up tommorrow.

Hmmm......maybe I'll even take the mountain bike out to a nearby trail.

 

YEAH!!! Great weather for a change in our area. Saturday should be good for the most part also.

GO SOX!!!

Looking forward to more progress pics. Smile [:)]

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Bridgeview, Illinois
Posted by mg.mikael on Saturday, April 25, 2009 1:21 PM

Here's the pics I said I'd get up.Smile [:)]

After sanding and timming down the support "planks" to fit in between the two main "planks", I was finally able to get out the glue.(Had to trim the edeges of some pieces to have a curve.) I used Elmer's Probond Interior Wood Glue, it's easy to wash and wipe off if you make a mistake before it dries.Thumbs Up [tup] I guess you could use Elmer's White Glue, but I wasn't gonna take the chance.

Here's a pic of the finished frame! It's suprisingly sturdy, and the glue holds perfectly.Big Smile [:D] After gluing, I sanded down the areas where a bit of excess glue dried and sanded down some areas in the wood that were not perfectly flat.

Now it's one to the axles and wheels in scratching. The wheels look like their gonna have to be scratched, since the parts I planned to use(the gears) were too small. The axles shouldn't be too much of a problem. Then I have to figure out the wheel supports the connect the axle to the frame. Might use stretched sprue if wood doesn't work well. Oh well, trial and error I guess.

"A good plan executed now is better than a perfect plan next week." - George S. Patton

  Photobucket 

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Fox Lake, Il., USA
Posted by spiralcity on Saturday, April 25, 2009 2:15 PM
 mg.mikael wrote:

Here's the pics I said I'd get up.Smile [:)]

After sanding and timming down the support "planks" to fit in between the two main "planks", I was finally able to get out the glue.(Had to trim the edeges of some pieces to have a curve.) I used Elmer's Probond Interior Wood Glue, it's easy to wash and wipe off if you make a mistake before it dries.Thumbs Up [tup] I guess you could use Elmer's White Glue, but I wasn't gonna take the chance.

Here's a pic of the finished frame! It's suprisingly sturdy, and the glue holds perfectly.Big Smile [:D] After gluing, I sanded down the areas where a bit of excess glue dried and sanded down some areas in the wood that were not perfectly flat.

Now it's one to the axles and wheels in scratching. The wheels look like their gonna have to be scratched, since the parts I planned to use(the gears) were too small. The axles shouldn't be too much of a problem. Then I have to figure out the wheel supports the connect the axle to the frame. Might use stretched sprue if wood doesn't work well. Oh well, trial and error I guess.

Looks like she's coming along nicley. Smile [:)]

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Sunday, April 26, 2009 4:15 PM
I am wondering if I can enter this GB with the A6M1 Zero prototype I am building now.  I didn't start it until last week but I do have a bit done to it, fuselage and wings are assembled, filling in progress.  I have taken progress pictures so I can share them.  Hasegawa 1/48 kit.

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.html

 

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Fox Lake, Il., USA
Posted by spiralcity on Sunday, April 26, 2009 9:21 PM

 jeaton01 wrote:
I am wondering if I can enter this GB with the A6M1 Zero prototype I am building now.  I didn't start it until last week but I do have a bit done to it, fuselage and wings are assembled, filling in progress.  I have taken progress pictures so I can share them.  Hasegawa 1/48 kit.

Sure, feel free to jump in. I'll add you to the board.

PM headed your way.

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Sunday, April 26, 2009 9:33 PM
Thanks. I'm glad to be here.

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.html

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Monday, April 27, 2009 11:40 PM

 

This is the Hasegawa A6M1 1/48 kit.  Squadron had it on sale in their flyer in April, so I sent for one.  Had to, in order to fill out all the Zero line from the 12-shi airplane to the A6M8.  It is a very nice kit, I think, super fit and lots of detail.  Added some Eduard seat belts, why didn't they do something for them?  You can build any version of the 2 Zusei powered prototypes from the box, and there is also a complete Sakai engine included.  2 types of oil coolers, and two marking choices.  The vertical fin is very squat looking compared to an A6M2 or later type, and the horizontal stabilizer is set lower and I think at a more negative incidence.  There's no cutting, it is a completely new fuselage. There is also an extra set of horizontal stabilizers in the kit, not to be used.  I haven't done any real research yet to be sure that all the details are as Hasegawa says they should be, though I have references here to look at, The Eagles of Mitsubishi being my best should I be able to find it in my "library". 

I started the kit a week ago, and the following is where I am now.

The panel has decals for instruments, I thought they were too stark so I coated them with a good layer of Tamiya Smoke, and went all around each gauge with a flat clear coat.

 

 

 

Here is the engine.  I painted the cylinders and crankcase steel and gave it a dark grey wash, and detail painted the ignition ring.  The exhaust collector ring has about four coats, starting with burnt metal buffing metallizer and then dry brushing with rust, flat black, and probably something else.  I don't think it will be very visible once the cowl is on.

 

 


The big parts are together.  It does take some careful fitting of a few parts to avoid gaps in places, the added parts are necessary to allow building of both prototypes at different points in their lives.  With a little care things fit very well.  I filled the spots where the aileron counterweights attach, filled and rescribed the inboard ends of the ailerons and the outboard flaps as the ailerons were longer on the A6M1 and Hasegawa used the A6M2 wings which are otherwise the same in this kit.  Optional parts are for the oil cooler types, and they have to fit in the wheel wells, at the leading edge wing roots, and the front lower fuselage.  I used the eyeball method to get it right and avoid a misfit in the wheel wells.  It pays to fit the wing and the oil cooler parts at the same time to get the best fit, with a little filing needed at the wing trailing edge to fuselage joint. There is a lot of detail all around this area, especially in the wheel wells, which would not like any filling and sanding.  There aren't any pins or ledges that establish the right location, but it's not that hard.  I painted the wheel wells Aotake, and the oil cooler burnt metal, and sealed them with liquid mask.

I am using colors recommended by J-Aircraft.com which concludes that the early Zero's were not Gray, but a color that is most closely matched by Aeromaster Nakajima Interior Gray Green, not gray as is most often seen.  It is said this color looks gray in black and white photos.  They are using color samples from the Zero that crashed at Pearl Harbor on Dec. 7, 1941, an A6M2.   I guess I will take some pictures and convert them to black and white and see what it looks like.  Looks a lot like a North African airplane right now, the top surfaces are painted.  I'm going to have to do more filling at the stabilizer/fuselage join, it is more evident than it should be right now. The last photo is this series has the Nakajima color on the nose, with the Mitsubishi interior green further back around the cockpit.  Sure hope these guys are not doing an April 1st joke on the color.  The cowl is painted flat black with a touch of dark blue added.

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.html

 

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Fox Lake, Il., USA
Posted by spiralcity on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 10:23 AM
 jeaton01 wrote:

 

This is the Hasegawa A6M1 1/48 kit.  Squadron had it on sale in their flyer in April, so I sent for one.  Had to, in order to fill out all the Zero line from the 12-shi airplane to the A6M8.  It is a very nice kit, I think, super fit and lots of detail.  Added some Eduard seat belts, why didn't they do something for them?  You can build any version of the 2 Zusei powered prototypes from the box, and there is also a complete Sakai engine included.  2 types of oil coolers, and two marking choices.  The vertical fin is very squat looking compared to an A6M2 or later type, and the horizontal stabilizer is set lower and I think at a more negative incidence.  There's no cutting, it is a completely new fuselage. There is also an extra set of horizontal stabilizers in the kit, not to be used.  I haven't done any real research yet to be sure that all the details are as Hasegawa says they should be, though I have references here to look at, The Eagles of Mitsubishi being my best should I be able to find it in my "library". 

I started the kit a week ago, and the following is where I am now.

The panel has decals for instruments, I thought they were too stark so I coated them with a good layer of Tamiya Smoke, and went all around each gauge with a flat clear coat.

 

 

 

Here is the engine.  I painted the cylinders and crankcase steel and gave it a dark grey wash, and detail painted the ignition ring.  The exhaust collector ring has about four coats, starting with burnt metal buffing metallizer and then dry brushing with rust, flat black, and probably something else.  I don't think it will be very visible once the cowl is on.

 

 


The big parts are together.  It does take some careful fitting of a few parts to avoid gaps in places, the added parts are necessary to allow building of both prototypes at different points in their lives.  With a little care things fit very well.  I filled the spots where the aileron counterweights attach, filled and rescribed the inboard ends of the ailerons and the outboard flaps as the ailerons were longer on the A6M1 and Hasegawa used the A6M2 wings which are otherwise the same in this kit.  Optional parts are for the oil cooler types, and they have to fit in the wheel wells, at the leading edge wing roots, and the front lower fuselage.  I used the eyeball method to get it right and avoid a misfit in the wheel wells.  It pays to fit the wing and the oil cooler parts at the same time to get the best fit, with a little filing needed at the wing trailing edge to fuselage joint. There is a lot of detail all around this area, especially in the wheel wells, which would not like any filling and sanding.  There aren't any pins or ledges that establish the right location, but it's not that hard.  I painted the wheel wells Aotake, and the oil cooler burnt metal, and sealed them with liquid mask.

I am using colors recommended by J-Aircraft.com which concludes that the early Zero's were not Gray, but a color that is most closely matched by Aeromaster Nakajima Interior Gray Green, not gray as is most often seen.  It is said this color looks gray in black and white photos.  They are using color samples from the Zero that crashed at Pearl Harbor on Dec. 7, 1941, an A6M2.   I guess I will take some pictures and convert them to black and white and see what it looks like.  Looks a lot like a North African airplane right now, the top surfaces are painted.  I'm going to have to do more filling at the stabilizer/fuselage join, it is more evident than it should be right now. The last photo is this series has the Nakajima color on the nose, with the Mitsubishi interior green further back around the cockpit.  Sure hope these guys are not doing an April 1st joke on the color.  The cowl is painted flat black with a touch of dark blue added.

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

She's coming along nicley! Looks like it will be a very nice build.

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 1:41 PM

I have the fuselage painted, so here are some photos, one color, the other in 8-bit black and white.   The color shift is dramatic, I would not have thought it would come out this way.  Jiro Horikoshi called the color "dimly shining Ash Green" in his book, and it is easy to see why the conventional wisdom indicated early Zeros were grey since common photos were black and white.  The paint I used is Aeromaster Nakajima interior gray green.

 

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.html

 

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Bridgeview, Illinois
Posted by mg.mikael on Tuesday, April 28, 2009 4:04 PM
Lookin' good, jeaton01, you sure are making good progress!! That cockpit looks just plain gorgeous, with all that detail.Thumbs Up [tup]Cool [8D]

"A good plan executed now is better than a perfect plan next week." - George S. Patton

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Wednesday, April 29, 2009 6:56 PM

This one is ready for the display case.  I see I forgot to paint the tail light.  Oh well.  Someday.  This is just a nice kit and I think a great effort to make an accurate kit with all the needed options and great fit. 

The model has a monochromatic look, but I want it to represent the airplane as it was on its initial test flight so I did not do any weathering.  Hopefully it looks as it did when Jiro Horikoshi described its color as a dimly shining Ash Green.  To get the dimly shining look I mixed a little Tamiya flat base in with the Future top coat.  There was no overcoat prior to decals, I just applied Future in decal locations.

I painted strips of decal for the canopy framing, and painted the perimeters only on the canopy parts.  Now what will be next.  One down and still thousands to go.

Decals were very nice in this kit, too.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.html

 

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Algonquin, IL
Posted by model geek on Thursday, April 30, 2009 9:52 PM

John,

Top notch work! I really like the cockpit detail. An excellent edition to the GB.

Thanks for all the photos and detailed captions.

Tom  

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Friday, May 1, 2009 12:43 AM
Thank you, I'm glad you liked it.

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.html

 

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Fox Lake, Il., USA
Posted by spiralcity on Friday, May 1, 2009 12:53 AM

I agree. Nice build. Make a Toast [#toast]

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Bridgeview, Illinois
Posted by mg.mikael on Friday, May 1, 2009 2:57 PM
Beautiful job, jeaton01!! Especially love the landing gears and the decals.Thumbs Up [tup] The decals look like they were painted on. I also got to give you another thumbs up for finishing this build amazingly quick yet still paying attention to detail.Thumbs Up [tup]Cool [8D] You runnin' an aircraft assembly line in your house or something?

"A good plan executed now is better than a perfect plan next week." - George S. Patton

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Friday, May 1, 2009 5:04 PM

No real assembly line, just retired and selfish about my time.  Besides, if I don't build pretty fast how am I gonna build the other 2,500 or so models in the stash?

Thanks.

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.html

 

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Bridgeview, Illinois
Posted by mg.mikael on Friday, May 1, 2009 6:06 PM
 jeaton01 wrote:

No real assembly line, just retired and selfish about my time.  Besides, if I don't build pretty fast how am I gonna build the other 2,500 or so models in the stash?

Thanks.

You could always send them my way.Big Smile [:D]

"A good plan executed now is better than a perfect plan next week." - George S. Patton

  Photobucket 

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Bridgeview, Illinois
Posted by mg.mikael on Friday, May 1, 2009 7:19 PM

As for progress on my Horatio Phillips multiplane, I'll have another update tommorrow.Cool [8D]

Just started work on the axle support truss(in other words the thing that's gonna hold the axle to the frame). I'm gonna try finishing that up tonight. As for the wheel's, I went back to my first idea of using the gears. It may not be historically accuate, since the real vehicle used spoke wheels. Then again I could make spoke wheels, but to make them sturdy to hold a stainless steel axle and a wood frame would be next to impossible. Look for the pics, up tommorrow!

"A good plan executed now is better than a perfect plan next week." - George S. Patton

  Photobucket 

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Bridgeview, Illinois
Posted by mg.mikael on Saturday, May 2, 2009 6:13 PM

Here's the update I promised, however I have yet to finish the support truss, since it needs alot more work then I thought. Involves alot more measurements and planning then I thought.Dunce [D)]

Here's my pile of random parts that will be goin' to making the wheels, support truss, and axle. Porbably don't see how or what the parts are gonna be used for, so let me explain.Wink [;)] The gears(from a computer CPU) will go to makin' the three wheels. The stainless steel rod(also from a computer CPU) will go to makin' the rear axle. The white plastic rods(from an old lego set) will be used for the axle support truss holder. The clear green rod(also from an old lego set) will be used for the axle support truss itself since it's the same radius as the steel axle.

To make the part that connects the support truss coming from the wood frame to the axle I took the end of one of the white plastic rods. Snipped off the round ends, then enlarged the hole on one side, and drilled out the other side in order to slide the steel axle in. It's a perfect fit and probably no glue will be needed.

Then I made some measurements to how high I want the wood frame off the ground. After getting the height I wanted I put a glob of silly putty on each side of the frame where the axle will be. Then I pushed the axle into the putty to get the correct height. Then it was just a matter of taking the green clear rod and snipping it too a much smaller size. The work of cutting and sanding to fit the angles has now begun.

"A good plan executed now is better than a perfect plan next week." - George S. Patton

  Photobucket 

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Bridgeview, Illinois
Posted by mg.mikael on Saturday, May 9, 2009 5:36 PM

I finally got around to cutting and trimming all the axle support braces(aka the clear green plastic). After a bit more sanding the clear green pieces will be glued down to the dark green stryene pieces(you see one of them on the build below), that way the axle support truss looks like it's attached to a small steel plate(will look like steel after painting) on the wood.

Here's a better pic of what I'm actually using to model the support metal plates on the wood, simply the part identification numbers cut off a sprue. Since their the perfect size, just a bit of sanding is needed and your done.Big Smile [:D]

"A good plan executed now is better than a perfect plan next week." - George S. Patton

  Photobucket 

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Algonquin, IL
Posted by model geek on Sunday, May 10, 2009 9:27 PM

MG,

You've got some really good engineering and scratch building going on. Look forward to more updates.

Tom  

 

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Bridgeview, Illinois
Posted by mg.mikael on Monday, May 11, 2009 4:33 PM
 model geek wrote:

MG,

You've got some really good engineering and scratch building going on. Look forward to more updates.

Thanks for the comments, model geek!Smile [:)] Lookin' forward to seeing more progress on your Heinkel 100D.

"A good plan executed now is better than a perfect plan next week." - George S. Patton

  Photobucket 

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Fox Lake, Il., USA
Posted by spiralcity on Monday, May 11, 2009 5:03 PM

Hey Mg.

She's looking like she's starting to take shape. Nice work. I'll be looking for more progress pics.

 

 

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