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Really nice, Bill. I've bookmarked your blog for later step by step reference. You got me through the Pz IV C and you'll get me through the Brumbar. Maybe a King Tiger next?
how to make a gif
Looks good Bill. Looking forward to the steps you take to make that zim pop.
Marc
Looking very nice bill. I do like that paint scheme.
I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so
On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3
Thanks terry, nice to see you pop in for a visit! Summer's moving along and I'm halfway through the MBA program as of Thursday, so I've reached that tipping point at least!
BP Models
Hi, Bill glad to see you are nearly closing this project, it looks really cool and I must admit that when I looked at mine when I bought it I thought cutting the camo at schurzen height was a great idea.
Hope your keeping well and College is going well for you.
Terry.
Missed that...thanks Bill !!!
Steve,
Almost, you missed the next sentence that completes the full process. I also dry brushed some enamel Burnt Umber after the Rust washes to tone it down a bit and add some variety to the final look.
I should also issue a small caution that the lacquer-based metalizer paints won't tolerate an aggressive application of the wash or it will lift right up...so you have to apply the wash lightly with single brush passes (no multiples!) and then wait patiently for it to dry before adding another pass if desired. Might take a little practice if you aren't used to them the first time out.
"Both track runs were given a base coat of MM non-buffing metalizer Gunmetal, lightly dry-brushed with enamel Steel, and followed by a couple of applications of a Rust wash."
Bill: A little clarifiaction if you would please...The tracks look much more rusty/orange based on this description. I really like how they look and I'd like to confirm this was all you did to achieve the effect.
Thanks Carl!
Mike
Ahhh....coming around the clubhouse turn.....almost at the finish line. I know summer is a female dog when it comes to getting bench time....every little bit helps!!
Looking good as usual
Rounds Complete!!
"The Moral High Ground....A Great Place to Emplace Artillery."
Looking good Bill .
Thanks Tread! I do my best to keep to a regular schedule...hope you had something good for dinner!
Man Bill,she just looks great ! I love the periscope looking out the the roof plate...ya really got the science down to an art.... and you are dependable ! it's Sunday, I'm enjoying my dinner and I know you will be posting ! LOL
tread
Managed to get in a good bit of work on the Brummbar this weekend and have some solid progress to report as a result. First up, some "pre-weathering" attention was given to the lower hull and running gear. I stippled some MM enamel Burnt Umber to simulate scuffs and scrapes and also applied some MM metalizer non-buffing Steel to the contact surfaces on the return rollers, idlers, and sprocket teeth. I used blue-tack to dry-fit the sprockets and did a test fit of the MK track runs to see how many links I needed to add to get the sag I wanted. 99 links in total did the trick and the idlers are still movable to allow for final adjustments when the tracks are permanently installed later on.
I also worked on the hull front spare track runs. I used the kit-supplied Magic tracks for these to add some visual variety since the solid-horn type of tracks were a later type than the main track runs with their hollow guide horns. I used a #76 finger drill to open up the track pin holes on the first and last links of the larger run on the hull nose for some added detail there and the small cleat faces needed to be trimmed off to allow them to fit into the holder due to the zim pattern reducing the clearance a bit. Both track runs were given a base coat of MM non-buffing metalizer Gunmetal, lightly dry-brushed with enamel Steel, and followed by a couple of applications of a Rust wash. I added some dry-brushed enamel Burnt Umber for variety and installed them into position. I also detailed the driver's periscope while I was at it.
Those were the last remaining details needing attention, so the entire vehicle was airbrushed with Future acrylic floor polish straight out of the bottle to seal in the paint work and prep for the coming weathering stages. I applied the simple decal markings consisting of a single-digit hull number and crosses using Walther's Solvaset to get them to lay down over the zim surface. A 2nd coat of Future to seal in the decals and she's all set for the next stage of the finishing process.
Pvt Mutt Keep her coming Tex. Tony lee
Keep her coming Tex.
Tony lee
Tony, where you been? Haven't seen you in a spell.
Eric
Thanks Tony!
Steve, yep the shelf has a "dome" cover for the protruding exhaust pipe. As you can see from the design, space is at a premium (even more so with the schurzen fitted) so they added a treadplate step shelf over the exhaust to make it possible for the crew to get access to the fighting compartment from the engine deck. Thanks for the comments!
wbill76 ... I used black artist pastels on the domed pipe cover to simulate exhaust accumulation.
... I used black artist pastels on the domed pipe cover to simulate exhaust accumulation.
Bill: Is the domed cover the "shelf" thing above the exhaust? Strange design...looks cool though.
Lots of road wheels there...nice work!
Shoot Low Boys They're Ridin Ponys
panzer88, thanks for the comments and glad to hear you have a Brummie in the stash as well. Mine waited a while for its turn but eventually I could no longer resist. They are such hulking beasts but so much room to play with too.
Ben, thanks for dropping in! Plans for the near term are to get a few more of the remaining details done and squared away, paint the tracks, then on to markings and weathering. It's getting close to the finish line.
Hey Bill,
As always looking superb!
I really fancy another go at a Brummbar! They are awesome machines and great fun to model. Those slab-sides are weathering heaven!
What plans do you have going forward?
Ben
On the Bench - Dragon Pz. IV Ausf. G (L.A.H.)
Looking real good. I have the pre zimmed offering in the stash begging to be built.
Spent some time working on the exterior details and getting them installed. First order of business was assembling and installing the road wheels into position on either side and the spare road wheels for the racks at the rear. Then came the tools and tow cables. The left side received the idler tensioning wrench and jack block and it's important to note here that there are 2 holes that need to be opened up on the fender to accept the block but the instructions don't call this out at any point in the assembly. I modified the block somewhat, adding in the missing woodgrain texture on the sides by scribing in some lines with the tip of a sharp #11 blade. The block was given a foundation application of the 50-50 dunkelgelb/light gray mix used for the hull followed by a thinned wash application of MM enamel Leather. Once the wash had dried, I added some Burnt Umber pastels for a bit more variation. The wrench was detailed with MM non-buffing metalizer Gunmetal and lightly dry-brushed with MM enamel Steel.
I also detailed the gunner's scope and installed the "rabbit ears" scope for the commander at this stage.
The right side didn't have much to install, just the track changing tool and the tow cables. The tool was painted the same as the wrench on the other side as were the tow cable ends. For the cables themselves, I replaced the kit-supplied steel wire since it was too stiff with crochet rope thread of a similar diameter. To prevent "fuzzing" of the thread, I dipped it in Future and let it air-dry before painting it with the MM non-buffing metalizer Gunmetal and attaching to the cable ends with CA gel. The result is a more flexible cable that could be positioned as needed. The instructions-recommended length of 115mm is about right and DOES NOT include the length of the cable ends in that calculation.
The rear hull details got some attention as well. I used Tamiya Clear Green for the Notek convoy light lenses and Clear Red for the reflector. The exhaust was detailed with a base coat of MM non-buffing metalizer Gunmetal followed by a thinned wash application of enamel Rust. I used black artist pastels on the domed pipe cover to simulate exhaust accumulation. The starter crank was detailed and installed with CA gel, the only slight modification coming in the form of removing the molded on clamp handles and replacing them with PE handles from a Griffon tool set for added detail.
I still need to work on the spare track runs for the front hull but will take care of that when I finalize the main track runs for consistency. Then it will be on to the decals and weathering stages.
Double-action is the way to go for sure when it comes to detailed paint schemes. I've used double-action ABs for years and they provide a lot of versatility. The neat thing about the Aztek is that it can function as either a single-action or a double-action and I will often just open it up wide for applications of things like primer coats or Future coats and then return it to double-action for detail work and what not. You should give it a try! Practice on an old model or a sheet of styrene (I have one pinned to the back of my spray booth for mini-test runs before committing to application on the actual model) and remember that thinning ratios and air pressure also play a role.
wbill76 ...I've gotten very comfortable with the double-action feel of the metal-body Aztek after years of using the plastic-body version. Wouldn't have thought it would make that much of a difference but it does!
...I've gotten very comfortable with the double-action feel of the metal-body Aztek after years of using the plastic-body version. Wouldn't have thought it would make that much of a difference but it does!
Bill: I used to use the most basic Tamiya single action airbrush available but now I'm using an Iwata double action. I'm getting more comfortable with it too and experimenting a lot. I sure enjoy the extra control of paint/air and the ability to do detail work. Can't believe I waited so long to get one. Again, nicely done on that free-hand work, I want to try that sometime!
DM, thanks for popping in (pun intended!)
Anthony, it's an inescapable fact of life when dealing with German armor...the price must be paid!
Steve, thanks for the comments as well. I've gotten very comfortable with the double-action feel of the metal-body Aztek after years of using the plastic-body version. Wouldn't have thought it would make that much of a difference but it does!
Marc and Clay thanks for the comments as well!
as always Bull very fine work. hate painting road wheels yours look great. i like tristars more parts but very easy to paint.. again awesome work.
Clay
Crikey... me likey!
wbill76
Bill: Really nicely done. That freehand airbrush work is not easy...you executed in masterfully
Looks good Bill,I call it road wheel madness,sort of like white line fever !!!
HOT DOG!
This is gonna be a real weiner!
All corny puns aside Bill,
this is looking great..... as usual.
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