Revell Northsea Fishing Trawler WIP

Well!

      The decklights work so git yer B*&&% on deck straightening the deck ya swabs! Nice work with that lighting. I am still following this with Avidity for sure.

WOW!  That looks AWESOME!!!

tjs

This is getting "gooder and gooder" 

Thanks Lurch and Steve. I noticed in the third image there is light leakage around the LED housings. As a result I went back and applied solarez around them, zapped it with UV light, and then painted it with black craft paint. That should help with the light spilling out around the housings. Other than that, must be good enough.

I think from here I will start working on the wheelhouse lighting and windows.

I think it looks great.

that's looking great , steve .

I made the lamps following the process I outlined on the mast light. These are just too small to completely duplicate the 1:1. I cut Evergreen stock, sized, angled the piece to a wedge, and then drilled holes for the wiring to go through.

Installing them was a treat. The wires twist the piece in every direction other than where you want it. Try glueing them in the correct orientation without making a mess was a battle. Below was the best I could muster.

 

The wheelhouse is not secured. Wiring kept the piece from seating. They will be routed into the hull once when ready to mount it.

Light is blown out, as usual. What I did certainly not perfect but it is what it is.

I went with a yellow 0805 LED chip.

With the exception of the wheelhouse, interior lighting is done.

Just a reminder that the camera is blowing out the light and skewing the color some too. In person it looks much more balanced.

Some things I can note:

1. I will go back and redo the light blocking. I left it as is so you can see what was done. If it was all black, you would not be able to tell what was done.

2. The larger 3 mil FO comes with a vinyl (or similar) outer jacket. I had to strip the jacket back at the connection points. Where they connect to the bulkhead, I stripped them back maybe 1/8 inch. This allowed me to insert the optic into the portholes providing a mechanical connection and it gives the appearance of recessed glass. On the other end I stripped them back maybe 3/4 inch. I used Evergreen tubing for the light engine and stripping the insulation allowed me to use a smaller diameter tube. I was able to stuff both optics into the tube with a nice solid fit. It is tight enough that I didn't need to glue them. I had no choice doing this because anything larger with the tube would have interfered with closing the roof. Btw. I had to expand the portholes very slightly in order for the FO to fit. It was minimal. I few swipes with a round file and bang--a nice tight fit. 

3. I used hobby epoxy to secure the smaller FO and when I was installing the 3 mil optics, I had one of the epoxy joins fail. It popped off like nobodys business. That epoxy continues to fail me. Over the years it has failed me at least 4 times. It is junk! I thought maybe it was bad luck but no. I repaired the damage and then slathered all the connections with slow curing JB Weld. That is good stuff, and I don't see that failing on me. Below is the junk I am referring to. 

4. The UV resin I have was handy too. The 3 mil FO LED placement was critical. There is a sweet spot to get both portals to light evenly. I needed something I could tack the LED in place when I got it positioned. UV resin worked great for that. Once it was tacked, I followed up with JB epoxy. 

I guess at this point I will begin work on the exterior lights above the wheelhouse.

Hey Tom Schry... here is a fantastic resource for Ross Tiger images.

https://www.facebook.com/RossTigerTrawler

CapnMac82

 

 

Bakster

Or -- I could... but it would probably S U C K!!

 

 

Full circle back to knowing the function of a thing, all the better to model that thing.

If a person does not know that the rectanguar bump on the side of a tank turret, say, is actualy a looped grab handle, they will render that differently than if it were, say, a stand-off for applique armor.

That schertzen on German WWII tanks is best (at 1/32) represented with 0.015 sheet, and not the ±2" to scale styrene brovidd in the kit.

Or, for that matter, being able to notice that a mast ladder only needs a few stand-offs, and not the one-per-rung as moulded.

So, research is wanted.  And, perhaps I'm too academic in my polymath desires for knowledge.  But a lack of research is one of my gripes about some of the YT modelers out ther.e--OOB is only OOB.  So, ok, Zukia Mora is pushing that envelope hard, but the kit manufacturer is limited in what they can mould, and how well they can mould it.

Which is where the on-line fora come in handy.  Being able to talk to actual tankers, pilots, aviators, sailors--these can inform modelers so richly and deeply.

 

Bakster

Or -- I could... but it would probably S U C K!!

Full circle back to knowing the function of a thing, all the better to model that thing.

If a person does not know that the rectanguar bump on the side of a tank turret, say, is actualy a looped grab handle, they will render that differently than if it were, say, a stand-off for applique armor.

That schertzen on German WWII tanks is best (at 1/32) represented with 0.015 sheet, and not the ±2" to scale styrene brovidd in the kit.

Or, for that matter, being able to notice that a mast ladder only needs a few stand-offs, and not the one-per-rung as moulded.

So, research is wanted.  And, perhaps I'm too academic in my polymath desires for knowledge.  But a lack of research is one of my gripes about some of the YT modelers out ther.e--OOB is only OOB.  So, ok, Zukia Mora is pushing that envelope hard, but the kit manufacturer is limited in what they can mould, and how well they can mould it.

Which is where the on-line fora come in handy.  Being able to talk to actual tankers, pilots, aviators, sailors--these can inform modelers so richly and deeply.

MR TOM SCHRY

Bakster,

I've been following along with this build and the work that you're doing to this "vintage" kit is amazing.  I have the same kit so I'm taking a ton of notes.  When this model is completed have you considered entering it in the annual Manitowoc Ship Model Contest or perhaps the 2024 IPMS Nationals which are being held in Madison, WI?  Something of this quality needs to be seen by a lot more people.

tjs

 

Say Tom-- first off-- thank you! Secondly--the fact this build is helping you is what drives me to post them. I know I am repeating myself when I say that but it is entirely true. If it helps anyone-- mission accomplished.

Knowing you are taking notes for your build, I will continue to communicate the things I find.

Hats off to Capn, TB, and Morrison. Their knowledge enlightens all of us. I could not do this build without their help. Or -- I could... but it would probably S U C K!!!

About the contests. Boy-- I don't know. I never considered myself good enough for that sort of thing and on top of that-- I build for the fun of it. I will toss it around a bit. But lets first see how this movie ends. Hopefully, not like the Titanic! 

Thanks again Tom for the encouragement and for following.

Cheers! 

CapnMac82

 

 

Bakster

I just searched fishing boats imaged at night and it looks like the various light sources can be mash of different colors from pure white, to yellow, to an almost green. Some of that probably altered by the camera, and some from what the various light sources are made from. The point though, they appear different.

 

 

Fishermen are frugal.   They shop for deck lighting by price (and longevity).  So, every hue is likely--and, yes, cameras only emphasize such effects.

Maritime law wants the light colors to be "pure" and do not really allow for much variation.

So, a pure white is entirely apt for mast and stern lights.  Even if all the other illumination is some other hue.

 

That is fantastico! So far -- so good.

You know... I have some LEDs called cabin yellow. The odd thing is when they light up they are anything but yellow. They look more like an off green, maybe mixed with some yellow. Maybe they would be good for inside the wheelhouse. Considering a home for them. 

Hey TB-- that is a great synopsis. I am learning much from you guys about these boats and life on them.

And let me tell you... no thanks. It sounds too dangerous for my blood. Sinking into the inky blackness makes me very uneasy. I don't want to become fish food. 

Hi Bakster!

      Hey, every thing you have been told is true. Now to add to that. Many skipper/owners will also use lights and other equipment that is coming off a boat that has reached the end of it's useful life. Such as lights and deck gear. Besides you MUST realize that many multi boat owners are too cheap to buy new-Re: the Andrea Gail!

 Surprisingly the boat owners from twenty years ago to today are more likely to fudge because of "Coastie" Regs. They are cheap, and fishing is one of the industries hit the hardest for employee retention. In my Uncles day the boats were family owned operated and crewed! So a Vessel that performed properly at all times was very important. From the lights to the food coolers and living conditions as well.

         Boat maintenance and equipment has gotten so expensive today that everything HAS to be up to snuff at all times. As long as it meets "Coastie" Mins it is good to go. Sadly there those that pass and then wind up in trouble or on the bottom with a loss of life. It is a viciously demanding job, both for the boat and the crew! So, That said,The color of lights that are not Nav lights will be somewhat different if seen in person or on Camera. The old saw here is " If it ain't broke ,don't fix it!"

Bakster

I just searched fishing boats imaged at night and it looks like the various light sources can be mash of different colors from pure white, to yellow, to an almost green. Some of that probably altered by the camera, and some from what the various light sources are made from. The point though, they appear different.

Fishermen are frugal.   They shop for deck lighting by price (and longevity).  So, every hue is likely--and, yes, cameras only emphasize such effects.

Maritime law wants the light colors to be "pure" and do not really allow for much variation.

So, a pure white is entirely apt for mast and stern lights.  Even if all the other illumination is some other hue.

Bakster,

I've been following along with this build and the work that you're doing to this "vintage" kit is amazing.  I have the same kit so I'm taking a ton of notes.  When this model is completed have you considered entering it in the annual Manitowoc Ship Model Contest or perhaps the 2024 IPMS Nationals which are being held in Madison, WI?  Something of this quality needs to be seen by a lot more people.

tjs

CapnMac82

 

 

Bakster

Are these the lights you are talking about under the wheelhouse? It looks easy enough to do.

 

 

Cool, Qoute Function works today.

Yes, those are the very ones.

I'll wager they appear yellow from being incandescent lamps (although there is a possibility they are low-pressure sodium High Intensity lamps--which have an ocher sort of amber light).

 

 

Sounds good... I will fabricate them. I made the mast and stern light a pure white. Are those colors technically correct? I have no idea.

I just searched fishing boats imaged at night and it looks like the various light sources can be mash of different colors from pure white, to yellow, to an almost green. Some of that probably altered by the camera, and some from what the various light sources are made from. The point though, they appear different.

At first I was leaning towards making them white and in keeping with the other exterior lighting but... as per the above, yellow might make it more visually interesting to say the least, and possibly more accurate when we consider the Ross Tiger photo I posted earlier.

Anyway, that is how I am leaning. Your thoughts are always welcome.

CapnMac82

 

 

Bakster

Hey Capn, I wote these guys and they confirmed what you said about reversing the polarity to change the direction of rotation.

 

 

 

That's the way most DC motors work.  So, it seemed a safe assertion to make.

Al manner of cool things around, really.  Did you see Thomas over at LaserCreationWorld used a magnet to levitate an "anti-gravity car" in a recent video?

So many options out there.

 

I got as far to finalize the order when the cost of shipping came up. It was $30 to ship a few tiny $3 motors. Apparently, they only ship DHL air and these come from China. So... for something that may or may not work for me it would cost over $40. I backed out of the order... we can use our imagination on this one. 

No I hadn't seen that one about the levitating car. It sounds cool and I will look into it.

Thanks, Capn!

Bakster

Hey Capn, I wote these guys and they confirmed what you said about reversing the polarity to change the direction of rotation.

That's the way most DC motors work.  So, it seemed a safe assertion to make.

Al manner of cool things around, really.  Did you see Thomas over at LaserCreationWorld used a magnet to levitate an "anti-gravity car" in a recent video?

So many options out there.

Bakster

Are these the lights you are talking about under the wheelhouse? It looks easy enough to do.

Cool, Qoute Function works today.

Yes, those are the very ones.

I'll wager they appear yellow from being incandescent lamps (although there is a possibility they are low-pressure sodium High Intensity lamps--which have an ocher sort of amber light).

"Found this small motor (which likely needs a potentiometer to reduce rpm) that might be less work than a vibrator motor.

https://nfpshop.com/product/4mm-smallest-dc-motor-12mm-length-3-7v-dc-model-nfp-d0412-3978"

Hey Capn, I wote these guys and they confirmed what you said about reversing the polarity to change the direction of rotation. For grins, I will order a few to experiment with. With luck, maybe get it encorporated into the build.

CapnMac82

Well, ok then, Kalmbach is not letting me quote the post.

Note at the front of the house there are a couple of spotlights, which are mounted up under the overhang of the wheelhouse, above.  These are about 8-10" around, and show up in several photos. Those lights illuminate the well deck working area, and would be "on" during ordinary steaming.

This would seem to be the opportune time to install those, if not to affix them, per se.

 

It's good you mentioned it now because I am nearing that point of attaching the assembly. Then it's too late.

Are these the lights you are talking about under the wheelhouse? It looks easy enough to do.

I have been using white LEDs for the exterior lighting and maybe I should have used yellow. Not that I care that much. I will probably just keep it consistent and do the same on these.

Well, ok then, Kalmbach is not letting me quote the post.

Note at the front of the house there are a couple of spotlights, which are mounted up under the overhang of the wheelhouse, above.  These are about 8-10" around, and show up in several photos. Those lights illuminate the well deck working area, and would be "on" during ordinary steaming.

This would seem to be the opportune time to install those, if not to affix them, per se.

I started on the fiber optics. The first thing I did was make the light engine housings and a pedestal. The fiber optic strands are stiff and the less stress on them the better. So, the pedestal is to help make them level with the porthole. 

You can see below the first half is fitted and here I am testing the light output. It works like a charm. I then proceeded to polish the ends and epoxy the strands in place. For the other half, I will duplicate the process going the other direction and using the other housing. And for the two larger portholes at the front of the cabin, I will have a separate light engine and I hope to light them both using one housing. Btw. I figured it pretty good when I said I should be able to fit 4 strands per housing. I can barely get the fourth in it. It is nice and snug.

My next update should hopefully show the entire assembly complete.

Ah, But Bill:

       That was said in the wheelhouse to me, Not on the Radio. We'sa spika da Yinglich inna da radio Tingy!

Here in Lakes we have scallop boats, seiners, board trawlers and shark boats.

GMorrison

The tongers have their own grounds where dredgers cant go.

Any fishing ground, and I've been on a few; can get very contentious and sometimes a little violent.

 

Bill

 

I can imagine it like in the series, Bering Sea Gold. They often had situations when miners  encroach on other miners claims. Money is money and you better stay out of my sandbox.

CapnMac82

 

 

Bakster

Also, you mentioned the net is drug along the bottom. Is that literally pulled along the seafloor? You'd think it'd snag on something. 

 

 

Largely, you frag for bivalves--oysters, scallops, and the like.

The net has a toothed frame designed to "chatter" on the bottom.  And, it's a small affair, perhaps a meter wide.

The draggers also "know their bottom," they don't drag where they get snags or the like.  (This is also a benefit of being under sail--no ripping the winches out or the like.)

Shrimp trawlers have their nets just above the bottom.  In days of old, there was a "necklace" with dangling chains ahead o the net, to "spook" the shrimp up off the bottom.  This is not allowed in modern fisheries.

The skipjacks Bill notes use a pushboat to get to the fishing ground, but are olny allowed to "dredge" under sail-this is to protect the oyster beds. The pushboats don't have rudders, as they are lashed to the sides/sterns o the skipjacks.

A limited number of powerboats are allowed out on the oysterbeds, but, they are restricted to "tong-ing" for their catch.  The tongs are set up like a pair of 1m wide rakes with 3m hafts, pivoted like scissors.  You want to be a stout fellow to work the tongs and raise enough fresh oysters to make a living of it.

The North Sea trawlers, like the Tigers, made their living in the mid-depths, going after specific speies of fish--like herring or hake or the like.

 

Hey Capn, that was extremely interesting to me. I always wondered how they did that, and now I have a better idea. Thanks for the info!

"No Italian on the radio!".

Bill