Revell Northsea Fishing Trawler WIP

keavdog

Rheostats control current.  Potentiometers control voltage.

 

Thanks John!

Rheostats control current.  Potentiometers control voltage.

Thanks for all that, TB. I will consider it. My working in the electronics industry I might buy a variable resistor and make my own... if needed. At least to find the resistance/output I want and then install fixed resistors.

Bakster!

       Surprisingly, in answer to your question. Yes, It has a rheostat type switch and it has limited dimming ability. It only goes to a specific low setting, remember it's for Night Lights! Also I found small lights for the Many versions of the pre-made Christmas Houses that will all plug into an In-Line dimmer switch!

     You know of course You'll have to search in person at Hobby Lobby and Micheals as well as Jo-Anns to find them. On Line descriptions don't tell the whole story. I bought  some Dimmable Christmas light strings last year for a model Railroad display.The little teeny bulbs were glued in place. They turned out to be little flame shaped L.E.D.s.

      NOTE: You can also Frost the plastic you are using for port Glass and use Warm Gold Clear for a coating. This will make them less bright too! This is a Clear-Coat I found in passing at the Craftint display at H.L.

Tanker-Builder

  In that photo from the forward Port Quarter, you can see why I like them. Such beautiful lines for a Working Boat! 

Tanker-Builder

I have found some I can Plug into a control My landlady found on line for her Stained Glass Nite Lights. So, they are quite a bit dimmer.

Hi Again.

      In that photo from the forward Port Quarter, you can see why I like them. Such beautiful lines for a Working Boat! I converted the Model of one, years ago for a friend into a yacht idea he had. I don't know if he built a real one, but again the lines worked so well for a yacht with a swimming pool where the fish hatch was!

Hi!

     Fiber Optics is usually where I go for builds such as this. That way I can use a "Tea Light" for the lighting. I have found some I can Plug into a control My landlady found on line for her Stained Glass Nite Lights. So, they are quite a bit dimmer.

Bakster

The bottom line is this. I need to mount an LED to each porthole. It seems rediculous to me but in testing, that seems to be the answer. Then you can see the light. This then causes another problem, they then become too bright. I may need to diffuse them, or attenuate their output by using a different resistor. It's all a journey. Sigh.

I just had a thought. Rather than use an LED behind each porthole-- I might be able to use fiberoptic driven by two or three LEDs. That would reduce the number of LEDs by a huge factor, and probably address the light ouput because there will be some light losses in the process. And if I can find the correct size--the optical end will serve as the glass as well. I am gonna look into this.

Thanks, Ferg!

Looking great Bako.

Dodgy

CapnMac82

Flagpole is not mandated in maritime regulations, so, it an go to the side or, even behind the stern light (this is why combination fixtures where the sternlight and flagpole are melded together are middling common.)

Found this picture of the Tiger showing how they have it.

LED chips come in vacuum formed trays.  These work well to make a holder assembly.

Trim the pocket to its borders and you an have instant holder. It even has a hole for the light to shine through. Though, I enlarge it using a drill.

It is tough to cut a square hole in this material exposing the entire LED chip. So, I left it as a circle. In the end, I really like how the light shines through it. It seems to focus it into a bright and tight pattern. The image below does not do it justice. As usual-- the light is blown out.

I started work on the mast. Look how badly the model piece is in comparison to the Tiger. Mainly-- look at the spar and how big it is and how poorly it represents it. And look at the location. It is way off. That won't do.

The first thing I did was remove the spar. I will make a new one. The next thing I did was fabricate platforms for the lights. I didn't go into the weeds of accuracy. I just focused on something representative that looks half decent. Hole punches, a sharp knife, and Evergreen plastic helped to accomplish the work. 

Taking it in for my inspiration.

A lot more work to do on this.

And that is it for the weekend.

Well, Fiddlesticks!

        The thing looked so well, a little bright maybe, but just fine by the time everything goes on. OHO! I know what happened, they just replaced that old bulb with a new one, Reflector, Glass and all! That's gotta be it! Sorry about the glitch, You got this, I ain't worried.

Thanks, Capn. That cements it. 

I hope mounting the SL to the deck is somewhat acceptable. I could have mounted it to a post but that is not technically correct either.  All around... this model is filled with compromises. The closer I compare the model to the 1:1, the more glaring the inaccuracies become.

Though, not to discourage anyone from buying and building it. I am still enjoying it and as long as I temper my expectations, it's all good. I suppose with a lot of work one could turn it into a museum piece. Not this fella. I defer that to the experts.

Btw. Remember the assembly below? Gong! It's a do over. At times it may seem like I know what I am doing with lighting, but that is not true. I am still learning as I go.

So, what is the problem with what I did? The LEDs simply do not produce enough light. You can see their effect in complete lights-out condition, but then, what is the point in that. It's a lesson for me AGAIN that LEDs are directional. They are meant to be viewed square on. They do not produce much for ambient light and I need to get out of that mindset that they do. Part of what drives me to do that is power consumption. I try to minimize the number of LEDs used and I didn't want to hang an LED to each porthole. So, folks, don't do what I did. 

The bottom line is this. I need to mount an LED to each porthole. It seems rediculous to me but in testing, that seems to be the answer. Then you can see the light. This then causes another problem, they then become too bright. I may need to diffuse them, or attenuate their output by using a different resistor. It's all a journey. Sigh.

Bakster

I received the PE. Clearly-- smaller than the model but if the ladder is anything like the railing-- it is out of scale.  What do you guys think? 

I am hoping to use the stairs that came with the PE.

 

Railing not glued and just for perspective. 

I mountend it where the model has the flagpole. Truth is -- on the Tiger-- the pole is on the inward side of the railing. And if I left the pole in place as per the model--the pole would block the light. So--I will move the pole to the other side.

If time allows tomorrow, I might start on the mast lights.

 

Well, if the door is 3' wide, and the porthole about 18" diameter, then the moulded ladder is around 24"--that suggest the PE ladder is around 20" which is what most ladders actually are.  (You generally want a ladder to be shoulder-wide, any more than that is wasted (and needs stronger rungs.)

So, I'd call that good.

Flagpole is not mandated in maritime regulations, so, it an go to the side or, even behind the stern light (this is why combination fixtures where the sternlight and flagpole are melded together are middling common.)

Tanker-Builder

Well!

  Nice save on the sternlight! As to the ladders, just what I meant. Standing off from the bulkhead they will look so much better.

 

Survey said; ditch the molded ladder! That is how I will proceed.

Regarding the stern light: You won't believe it, I didn't. Gremlins struck! In further testing the LED failed. It was working fine up until it didn't. I have to believe it shorted out somewhere along the line of subsequent test fitting and such.

So, I ripped it out and started over. In the process of starting over there is a silver lining. Looking for a less time consuming way to construct the housing I think I found one. I was able to build it in half the time and I will probably follow the same path with the mast lights. It might not look as good as the first, and that is debatable, but it's darn close and it serves my purpose. And in another respect, the new light assembly provides a nicer light pattern.

I will post an update later.

Well!

  Nice save on the sternlight! As to the ladders, just what I meant. Standing off from the bulkhead they will look so much better.

[quote user="littletimmy"]

Those ladders are smaller than the cast on one's, but I believe they WILL look better.

[/quote

That is my thinking too, Tim.

Those ladders are smaller than the cast on one's, but I believe they WILL look better.

I received the PE. Clearly-- smaller than the model but if the ladder is anything like the railing-- it is out of scale.  What do you guys think? 

I am hoping to use the stairs that came with the PE.

Today I worked on the stern light. I found that 1206 size LEDs are a bit too large, I went with an 0805. Using Evergreen Ibeam stock I cut an opening for the LED chip to poke through.  

The soldering side from the back.

I used Evergreen flat stock to make a top and bottom.  Not shown in an image.

My next decision was where to mount it. 

Below: I found and captured an image showing how the Tiger has it mounted.

Below: A very bad image of the Arctic Corsair. The arrow points to what I think the stern light is and how they have it mounted to the deck. The latter is in line with what Capn mentioned. I toyed with mounting it to a brass tube but in the end, I decided to mount it to the deck. Seems like an acceptable compromise to me.

Railing not glued and just for perspective. 

Greatly underexposed so as to show some light detail. Otherwise--blown out.

I mountend it where the model has the flagpole. Truth is -- on the Tiger-- the pole is on the inward side of the railing. And if I left the pole in place as per the model--the pole would block the light. So--I will move the pole to the other side.

If time allows tomorrow, I might start on the mast lights.

Tanker-Builder

Hi!

      Well, I remember them from when I was a kid. That Video brought back a LOT of memories. The fact is, They were on one side of the harbor and the Tuna Clippers(Yes! Like the Lindberg/Life-Like) model were on the other side. The Tunamen didn't like them because the nets caught fish indiscrimantley whereas we chummed and only brought Tuna on board with barbless hooks!

      But, there were some of the captains that were concientious and we respected them. they were beautiful of line and did what they were designed for. They weathered sea states that many would not want to be in by choice! The Hull Ship has some Mods of course. I couldn't pin them down, but she did look different somewhat.

      I think this is a nice model to learn detailing and weathering on! It's solid and even with out of scale rails she looks interesting. Especially to those who have never seen one of these up close and personal! As usual I suspect you are gonna knock our socks off! NOTE:

      My Furuno Bar Radars rotated clockwise on the Oil Spill response boats.(Converted LCM-6s)

 

Thanks for the commentary, TB. Always interesting.

Hi!

      Well, I remember them from when I was a kid. That Video brought back a LOT of memories. The fact is, They were on one side of the harbor and the Tuna Clippers(Yes! Like the Lindberg/Life-Like) model were on the other side. The Tunamen didn't like them because the nets caught fish indiscrimantley whereas we chummed and only brought Tuna on board with barbless hooks!

      But, there were some of the captains that were concientious and we respected them. they were beautiful of line and did what they were designed for. They weathered sea states that many would not want to be in by choice! The Hull Ship has some Mods of course. I couldn't pin them down, but she did look different somewhat.

      I think this is a nice model to learn detailing and weathering on! It's solid and even with out of scale rails she looks interesting. Especially to those who have never seen one of these up close and personal! As usual I suspect you are gonna knock our socks off! NOTE:

      My Furuno Bar Radars rotated clockwise on the Oil Spill response boats.(Converted LCM-6s)

Here is an interesting video about the Artic Corsair. In ways seems similar to the one I am building but I see differences as well. Capn may have further commentary perhaps. I am posting it because it is an interesting video and it offers some good info that can be gleaned from it.

https://youtu.be/xI6h_mX5Dkc 

Today I am working on the stern light, and maybe the mast lights.

Hi!

     Eyes, who said eyes? Did you factor in the rest? I have long wondered if I could invent pull-on hands similar to prostehetics but more close to human in ability. Then I could build till I fall over! I would get some Nerd to fix me up with a set of sensory goggles that fed info right into the optic nerve too. Oh Shoot!, I forgot this is only 2022!

lurch

Yea my eyes are going also. Have to make that appointment again. 

 

It's not my eyes that trouble me so much as the clutz that lives inside me and loves to break out every once in a while!!

Yea my eyes are going also. Have to make that appointment again. 

littletimmy

 

 

Bakster

 

 

littletimmy

If you decide to go with the motorized  radar/ weather  array ...

I have a few of those "vibrating" motors.

They have an elliptical cam on the end of the shafts. That's what makes the phone vibrate/dance. Their easily removable. 

I used one to make working windshield wipers on a 1/87 scale locomotive.

They worked great ..... but I'm NEVER doing that again !!!

If you want, I could send some your way.

Cap is right, you will need some resistors to slow them down.

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the offer and I will let you know if I go that route. So you said that you will never do that again. Why?

 

 

 

 

 

My eyes ain't what they use to be...

That, and my sausage fingers didn't really fit into the locomotive cab..... and therfore the project took on " HILARIOUS"  problems.

( just imagine building wiper arms out of  1/16th of an inch long pieces of Brass ... three pieces ...EACH !   PLUS THE GEAR ! )

But, it DID work! 

 

Oh I hear that about the eyes. Same here.

CapnMac82

 

 

Bakster

What direction do radars rotate?

 

 

Clockwise except for when they go anticlockwise.  CW may be more common, but, we are back to being a "representation" too.

Many motors will reverse simply by wiring them "backwards" too.

Or, model one of these:

 

Thanks, Capn. I may buy a few to experiment with. They are cheap enough. If the stars align I might do it. If too much work, I think punt. Thanks for the work on this and your suggestions. 

Bakster

 

 

littletimmy

If you decide to go with the motorized  radar/ weather  array ...

I have a few of those "vibrating" motors.

They have an elliptical cam on the end of the shafts. That's what makes the phone vibrate/dance. Their easily removable. 

I used one to make working windshield wipers on a 1/87 scale locomotive.

They worked great ..... but I'm NEVER doing that again !!!

If you want, I could send some your way.

Cap is right, you will need some resistors to slow them down.

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the offer and I will let you know if I go that route. So you said that you will never do that again. Why?

 

My eyes ain't what they use to be...

That, and my sausage fingers didn't really fit into the locomotive cab..... and therfore the project took on " HILARIOUS"  problems.

( just imagine building wiper arms out of  1/16th of an inch long pieces of Brass ... three pieces ...EACH !   PLUS THE GEAR ! )

But, it DID work! 

Bakster

What direction do radars rotate?

Clockwise except for when they go anticlockwise.  CW may be more common, but, we are back to being a "representation" too.

Many motors will reverse simply by wiring them "backwards" too.

Or, model one of these: