Revell Northsea Fishing Trawler WIP

I am still working on the mast and trench. I am much closer to getting the filler shaped and done. Shaping a round mast takes a little more patience.

I also started filling holes where the stanchions go. The holes too large for the scratch builds I will make. Once I have them filled I will go back and drill undersized holes for each. That will provide locators and should help with installing new ones. 

I am using sprue-goo to fill here too. It is working well. Some were good to go on the first glopping but others need a second. This second round should do it.

And lastly... I got the 3mil FO in the mail today and I did a test. It should work well.

End of update.

CapnMac82

 

 

Bakster

So what is the difference between a freeing port and scupper? Did I use the wrong term "scupper" for the openings I made? I googled both terms and images of the openings I made come up under both

 

 

Techinically, a scupper is only a drain, typicaly a flared end pipe through the side.

A freeing port is anything that releases trapped water.

That can be a gap in the plating it can be a hinged opening all manner of answers.

 

 

Bakster

and I think the minimum I'd want to put on this model is a stowed net.

 

 

Yep.  Probably best.  Mind, you probably was the $2 in beads, too

 

Hey Capn, duly noted about the freeing port. If you guys ever see me referring to something in error, please correct me.

Thanks again!

Bakster

So what is the difference between a freeing port and scupper? Did I use the wrong term "scupper" for the openings I made? I googled both terms and images of the openings I made come up under both

Techinically, a scupper is only a drain, typicaly a flared end pipe through the side.

A freeing port is anything that releases trapped water.

That can be a gap in the plating it can be a hinged opening all manner of answers.

Bakster

and I think the minimum I'd want to put on this model is a stowed net.

Yep.  Probably best.  Mind, you probably was the $2 in beads, too

Tanker-Builder

Hi!

     Hey, in my experience the "Scuppers" are also called "Freeing Ports" because they free the deck of items brought aboard in weather(Fishes and Small flotsam)but they also free the deck of any water that comes aboard.

    Your use of the term is not wrong. It deoends on type of ship also(Military or Civilian)  So Sail on my friend! It is coming together nicely!

 

Yea! Thanks TB.

Hi!

     Hey, in my experience the "Scuppers" are also called "Freeing Ports" because they free the deck of items brought aboard in weather(Fishes and Small flotsam)but they also free the deck of any water that comes aboard.

    Your use of the term is not wrong. It deoends on type of ship also(Military or Civilian)  So Sail on my friend! It is coming together nicely!

Both sides are done with the openings.

Below: My weekend inspiration shot. Keeping my inspiration pump primed. What can I say, I am a big kid. (The pieces are loosely placed.)

I am mulling how much I will paint myself in the corner if I glue the deck in. I am considering installing it because of fit issues and I can address gaps and such. The downside is that it will complicate painting. Much more masking. I probably don't have a choice. To be determined.

Say Capn... this nauticle stuff is mind bending. So what is the difference between a freeing port and scupper? Did I use the wrong term "scupper" for the openings I made? I googled both terms and images of the openings I made come up under both.

Regarding closing and redoing them. Great idea but I think I will stick with what I have done. The work is already done and this will be just one in a series of compromises. Maybe my next boat I will take it farther. If I do, I'd hope to find a better canvas to build from... if it exists. 

Also... thanks for the netting ideas and such. I will reference back to this when I am ready to tackle it. Good ideas and I think the minimum I'd want to put on this model is a stowed net.

Bakster

Btw Capn. I tried as best I could to make them even with the deck but that is another story. Nothing aligns as it should and dropping the deck is not on my radar. But... it was a good point to know and I tried to get as close as I could while maintaining some of the Tiger alignments

Probably the route to take would be to carve off (or fill) moulded detail on the hull, where it is errant, and drill pilot holes through from the inide.

Doing one side at a time would allow being able to "match" the fore-aft of the other side's mouldings.  Also, to give a height of opening reference.

At least to need.

Given the sheer on the decks, scuppers and freeing ports are only really needed at the "quarters" and not the extreme ends.

There will be some "ports" used for mooring lines, but, that's a judgement call, too.

Nostly those will be handy for spotting whatever "bumpers" the ship has out.  In the earliest days of such trawlers, those would be tires.  In later years, they would be the round floats common to fishing craft.

These are blow-mouded PVC about 50-60com in diameter

Either in a teardrop, or sphere-and-disk shaped.

The nets will have "through-ine" floats:

Also PVC, typically blow-moulded.  Diameters from 15 to 60 cm, lengths from 20 to 60 cm.

In previous eras, net floats might be cork, or cork and kapok, evensome hollow glass, back in the day. 

Much of that can be answered with a trip to the bead section of one's nearby craft store.  (And some of those might be usable straight from the package, too)

Viz:

(holes are a bit overscale, but the colors are not far off.)  Also:

At the scale, 1.4mm =  1cm, so a person coul be forgiven for using 1mm = 1cm for sizing.

If a person were at, say, JoAnne for beads, if might be worth a troll over to fabrics to see if they have green tulle:

As it's going to be a dead ringer for modern trawl netting.

Modern nets are in blue, red, and ocher/tan.

The nice peope at JoAnne are generally happy to sell a person a foot off the roll rather than an entire bolt (10 meters of tulle would be a lot of nets . . .)

While the sprue-goo sets on the mast, I started on a check list item. And that is, the scuppers. Looking at photos of the Tiger I noticed glaring omisions on the model. 

To more closely match the Tiger I added the first four scuppers from the bow and as shown in the image. Though, now it more closely matches the Tiger, there are other differences towards the stern. I am not gonna try and fix all that. Way too much work. Again... not a museum piece.

Btw Capn. I tried as best I could to make them even with the deck but that is another story. Nothing aligns as it should and dropping the deck is not on my radar. But... it was a good point to know and I tried to get as close as I could while maintaining some of the Tiger alignments.

And tomorrow... I will do the other side.

Luvspinball

It isn't over until the internal connections are made and the mast is installed.  Trust me on this one.  The internal connections are sometimes MUCH harder than to the actual LED itself. 

Bob

 

I hope you are wrong, Bob. 

It isn't over until the internal connections are made and the mast is installed.  Trust me on this one.  The internal connections are sometimes MUCH harder than to the actual LED itself. 

Bob

Bakster

 

 

CapnMac82

Those masthead lights came out spiffy.

That resin is definitely a "keeper" (if only to discover shelf life )

That mast looks like a candidate for 3d printing, if only to clean up the details.  Would be cool to print it hollow for wires, too.

 

 

 

 

Thanks, Capn. 

A 3D piece would be nice. Someone with the gumption could do that. 

I get to pass GO and collect $200. The light works. Thank goodness because soldering to these tiny chips is a delicate dance. More than that...making sure nothing shorts either through solder creep or exposed wires touching. Then pray the connections hold while you imbed and mount the piece.

Anyway... onto fixing the trench. 

 

 

Btw. It just occurred to me that I could mention this. I noted above some perils of working with these LED chips. Regarding the connections holding or not holding, here is a tip. Once when you get the chip wired and it tests Ok, I always put superglue over entire back of the chip and its solder connections. You can slather the entire back. This helps a ton from having the wires come loose later. Otherwise, there is very little there holding them in place and your risk of them breaking free is high. But, once you apply the CA, make sure it is fully cured before putting power to it again. I usually leave it overnight before I test it again. In its cured state it is non-conductive. While it's curing, probably not. It's still liquid. I learned this the hard way. I had waited some, not long enough, and the LED shorted. The CA was not fully cured

Don't be afraid to burn out a few. These are inexpensive. The tragedy only comes when you have it installed in a much labored over housing and then it fails. That stinks. 

Also, as long as you have a current limiting resistor on one end of the wires, you don't have to worry about burning the LED out if you apply the polarity wrong. If you have the wires reversed, the LED will simply not function. That is your first clue that you have it wrong. Reverse the wires and if the light comes on, you got it right. I used to worry about making sure I knew which was positive and which was negative. Now, I don't. I simply try it until it works and then install it that way. However, if you don't have the resistor on one of the wires, you will burn it out either way and in quick order.

You can also purchase these chips prewired. For this project, I don't think prewired would have worked because they tend to use heavier guage wire. I soldered them myself so could use 30 awg magnet wire. The diameter of the wire is small and much easier to fit the trough I made on the mast.

Dont be afraid to try lighting guys. Again, what is the worst that can happen? You pop a few LEDs. Big deal. 

Hey Duster and Surfsup...thanks for following and commenting!

Cheers, Mates...

farust catching with this Build and love the work you have done so far.....Cheers Mark

looks good, and clever how you got it done.

CapnMac82

Those masthead lights came out spiffy.

That resin is definitely a "keeper" (if only to discover shelf life )

That mast looks like a candidate for 3d printing, if only to clean up the details.  Would be cool to print it hollow for wires, too.

 

Thanks, Capn. 

A 3D piece would be nice. Someone with the gumption could do that. 

I get to pass GO and collect $200. The light works. Thank goodness because soldering to these tiny chips is a delicate dance. More than that...making sure nothing shorts either through solder creep or exposed wires touching. Then pray the connections hold while you imbed and mount the piece.

Anyway... onto fixing the trench. 

Those masthead lights came out spiffy.

That resin is definitely a "keeper" (if only to discover shelf life )

That mast looks like a candidate for 3d printing, if only to clean up the details.  Would be cool to print it hollow for wires, too.

The top two lights are dummies. There are no LEDs in them. The bottom light has an LED and it looks nice when lit. I don't have an image because I need the glues to cure. I don't want anything shorting out. I have my fingers crossed nothing happened in this process.

I used a UV resin to create the glass. And I tried something that I was not sure if it was gonna work, but so far, so good. For the top light I mixed the resin with a touch of Tamiya white, on the second I mixed it with Tamiya Red Clear, and the bottom just straight up Solarez.

I have not used Solarez before and I decided to try it based on another modelers recommendation. The stuff cures nicely, certainly better than the Walgreens junk I once tried. And to be honest... I didn't notice much of an odor to this. Again, unlike the Walgreens junk. That stuff was downright nasty. The downside to this is that it's not cheap. I hope it has a long shelf life.

This particular one is a doming version. That worked well too. The stuff is thick but levels nicely to a dome. And it does not creep much. So, it stays where you want it.

If the light tests fine tomorrow, I can move on to sprue-gooing the trench I made for the wires. Then I need to make a spar, and I am thinking of making a ladder. If you look towards the bottom of the mast you will see some nubs. I think those are supposed to be a dumbed down version of a ladder.

GMorrison

 

 

Bakster

Bakster wrote the following post 14 hours ago:

" Can you heat and mushroom the optic fiber to get 3mm?"

Bill, you always have great out of the box ideas. I will try this and see what happens.

 

Hey Bill, I gave it a try.  I could not get the FO to mushroom that large. The best I could do was melt it, and then mash it flat. Then I could get the diameter I needed. The bad news is that when I put light through it, the light does not transmit into the expanded area. The light you get holds to the original size. So, you see a dot at the original size. 

 

 

 

 

That in itself is interesting to know!

 

 

Bill

 

Bakster

Bakster wrote the following post 14 hours ago:

" Can you heat and mushroom the optic fiber to get 3mm?"

Bill, you always have great out of the box ideas. I will try this and see what happens.

 

Hey Bill, I gave it a try.  I could not get the FO to mushroom that large. The best I could do was melt it, and then mash it flat. Then I could get the diameter I needed. The bad news is that when I put light through it, the light does not transmit into the expanded area. The light you get holds to the original size. So, you see a dot at the original size. 

 

Bill

Hey Bill, I gave it a try.  I could not get the FO to mushroom that large. The best I could do was melt it, and then mash it flat. Then I could get the diameter I needed. The bad news is that when I put light through it, the light does not transmit into the expanded area. The light you get holds to the original size. So, you see a dot at the original size. Sorry to say it didn't work but hey, good idea to try it!  I ordered some 3mil FO. What I don't use I will have in stock for the next possible project.

CapnMac82

 

 

Bakster

It could be a bit tricky mashing the diameter of those in there, but I am pretty sure I can make work. I figure I can do 4 portholes per LED.

 

 

The other spiffy part about using the FO is that a person can put clar colors over the ends to vary the effect.  A dab of clear amber can soften the color a bit; some clear smoke to show a dimmer light.

Looking good.

 

Thanks Capn!

" Can you heat and mushroom the optic fiber to get 3mm?"

Bill, you always have great out of the box ideas. I will try this and see what happens.

Regarding the mast. That is a cool idea as well but I am already on the path of modifying the kit piece. I will see where this goes and go from there. 

I always appreciate your input! Thanks!

Bakster

It could be a bit tricky mashing the diameter of those in there, but I am pretty sure I can make work. I figure I can do 4 portholes per LED.

The other spiffy part about using the FO is that a person can put clar colors over the ends to vary the effect.  A dab of clear amber can soften the color a bit; some clear smoke to show a dimmer light.

Looking good.

Bakster

Regarding fiber optic I have two sizes in stock and what luck... one of them is the perfect fit. (1.5 mm). I will need to order some for the two larger portholes at the front of the cabin. Those are at around 3mm. Or maybe I will go with straight up LEDs. To be determined.

Since I have one size that works I did a quick mockup. And... oh yeah... that is the ticket. I am going fiber optic. Why I didn't think of this sooner I do not know.

It could be a bit tricky mashing the diameter of those in there, but I am pretty sure I can make work. I figure I can do 4 portholes per LED. 

I also worked on cutting a notch to run wires in the mast. Lastly, I have determined to stay with an 0805 LED for the mast light. I was considering a 1206 and figure them too large.

Thats enough for the night.

 

 

Another way to wire the mast head light- run a single insulated conductor up a mast made of brass tube. Connect one lead of the LED to the wire and the other lead to the mast. Attach a wire to the bottom of the mast under the deck.

Bill

keavdog

That looks great!

 

That looks great!

Regarding fiber optic I have two sizes in stock and what luck... one of them is the perfect fit. (1.5 mm). I will need to order some for the two larger portholes at the front of the cabin. Those are at around 3mm. Or maybe I will go with straight up LEDs. To be determined.

Since I have one size that works I did a quick mockup. And... oh yeah... that is the ticket. I am going fiber optic. Why I didn't think of this sooner I do not know.

It could be a bit tricky mashing the diameter of those in there, but I am pretty sure I can make work. I figure I can do 4 portholes per LED. 

I also worked on cutting a notch to run wires in the mast. Lastly, I have determined to stay with an 0805 LED for the mast light. I was considering a 1206 and figure them too large.

Thats enough for the night.

CapnMac82

 

 

Bakster

 

 

Bakster

The bottom line is this. I need to mount an LED to each porthole. It seems rediculous to me but in testing, that seems to be the answer. Then you can see the light. This then causes another problem, they then become too bright. I may need to diffuse them, or attenuate their output by using a different resistor. It's all a journey. Sigh.

 

 

I just had a thought. Rather than use an LED behind each porthole-- I might be able to use fiberoptic driven by two or three LEDs. That would reduce the number of LEDs by a huge factor, and probably address the light ouput because there will be some light losses in the process. And if I can find the correct size--the optical end will serve as the glass as well. I am gonna look into this.

 

 

 

 

Also, a person could put a vertical partition in, nad put LED on its faces, P&S, which would "point" them at the portholes. 

Looking good over all.

 

Bakster

 

 

Bakster

The bottom line is this. I need to mount an LED to each porthole. It seems rediculous to me but in testing, that seems to be the answer. Then you can see the light. This then causes another problem, they then become too bright. I may need to diffuse them, or attenuate their output by using a different resistor. It's all a journey. Sigh.

 

 

I just had a thought. Rather than use an LED behind each porthole-- I might be able to use fiberoptic driven by two or three LEDs. That would reduce the number of LEDs by a huge factor, and probably address the light ouput because there will be some light losses in the process. And if I can find the correct size--the optical end will serve as the glass as well. I am gonna look into this.

 

Also, a person could put a vertical partition in, nad put LED on its faces, P&S, which would "point" them at the portholes. 

Looking good over all.