Revell Northsea Fishing Trawler WIP

CapnMac82

Those masthead lights came out spiffy.

That resin is definitely a "keeper" (if only to discover shelf life )

That mast looks like a candidate for 3d printing, if only to clean up the details.  Would be cool to print it hollow for wires, too.

 

Thanks, Capn. 

A 3D piece would be nice. Someone with the gumption could do that. 

I get to pass GO and collect $200. The light works. Thank goodness because soldering to these tiny chips is a delicate dance. More than that...making sure nothing shorts either through solder creep or exposed wires touching. Then pray the connections hold while you imbed and mount the piece.

Anyway... onto fixing the trench. 

looks good, and clever how you got it done.

farust catching with this Build and love the work you have done so far.....Cheers Mark

Hey Duster and Surfsup...thanks for following and commenting!

Cheers, Mates...

Bakster

 

 

CapnMac82

Those masthead lights came out spiffy.

That resin is definitely a "keeper" (if only to discover shelf life )

That mast looks like a candidate for 3d printing, if only to clean up the details.  Would be cool to print it hollow for wires, too.

 

 

 

 

Thanks, Capn. 

A 3D piece would be nice. Someone with the gumption could do that. 

I get to pass GO and collect $200. The light works. Thank goodness because soldering to these tiny chips is a delicate dance. More than that...making sure nothing shorts either through solder creep or exposed wires touching. Then pray the connections hold while you imbed and mount the piece.

Anyway... onto fixing the trench. 

 

 

Btw. It just occurred to me that I could mention this. I noted above some perils of working with these LED chips. Regarding the connections holding or not holding, here is a tip. Once when you get the chip wired and it tests Ok, I always put superglue over entire back of the chip and its solder connections. You can slather the entire back. This helps a ton from having the wires come loose later. Otherwise, there is very little there holding them in place and your risk of them breaking free is high. But, once you apply the CA, make sure it is fully cured before putting power to it again. I usually leave it overnight before I test it again. In its cured state it is non-conductive. While it's curing, probably not. It's still liquid. I learned this the hard way. I had waited some, not long enough, and the LED shorted. The CA was not fully cured

Don't be afraid to burn out a few. These are inexpensive. The tragedy only comes when you have it installed in a much labored over housing and then it fails. That stinks. 

Also, as long as you have a current limiting resistor on one end of the wires, you don't have to worry about burning the LED out if you apply the polarity wrong. If you have the wires reversed, the LED will simply not function. That is your first clue that you have it wrong. Reverse the wires and if the light comes on, you got it right. I used to worry about making sure I knew which was positive and which was negative. Now, I don't. I simply try it until it works and then install it that way. However, if you don't have the resistor on one of the wires, you will burn it out either way and in quick order.

You can also purchase these chips prewired. For this project, I don't think prewired would have worked because they tend to use heavier guage wire. I soldered them myself so could use 30 awg magnet wire. The diameter of the wire is small and much easier to fit the trough I made on the mast.

Dont be afraid to try lighting guys. Again, what is the worst that can happen? You pop a few LEDs. Big deal. 

It isn't over until the internal connections are made and the mast is installed.  Trust me on this one.  The internal connections are sometimes MUCH harder than to the actual LED itself. 

Bob

Luvspinball

It isn't over until the internal connections are made and the mast is installed.  Trust me on this one.  The internal connections are sometimes MUCH harder than to the actual LED itself. 

Bob

 

I hope you are wrong, Bob. 

While the sprue-goo sets on the mast, I started on a check list item. And that is, the scuppers. Looking at photos of the Tiger I noticed glaring omisions on the model. 

To more closely match the Tiger I added the first four scuppers from the bow and as shown in the image. Though, now it more closely matches the Tiger, there are other differences towards the stern. I am not gonna try and fix all that. Way too much work. Again... not a museum piece.

Btw Capn. I tried as best I could to make them even with the deck but that is another story. Nothing aligns as it should and dropping the deck is not on my radar. But... it was a good point to know and I tried to get as close as I could while maintaining some of the Tiger alignments.

And tomorrow... I will do the other side.

Bakster

Btw Capn. I tried as best I could to make them even with the deck but that is another story. Nothing aligns as it should and dropping the deck is not on my radar. But... it was a good point to know and I tried to get as close as I could while maintaining some of the Tiger alignments

Probably the route to take would be to carve off (or fill) moulded detail on the hull, where it is errant, and drill pilot holes through from the inide.

Doing one side at a time would allow being able to "match" the fore-aft of the other side's mouldings.  Also, to give a height of opening reference.

At least to need.

Given the sheer on the decks, scuppers and freeing ports are only really needed at the "quarters" and not the extreme ends.

There will be some "ports" used for mooring lines, but, that's a judgement call, too.

Nostly those will be handy for spotting whatever "bumpers" the ship has out.  In the earliest days of such trawlers, those would be tires.  In later years, they would be the round floats common to fishing craft.

These are blow-mouded PVC about 50-60com in diameter

Either in a teardrop, or sphere-and-disk shaped.

The nets will have "through-ine" floats:

Also PVC, typically blow-moulded.  Diameters from 15 to 60 cm, lengths from 20 to 60 cm.

In previous eras, net floats might be cork, or cork and kapok, evensome hollow glass, back in the day. 

Much of that can be answered with a trip to the bead section of one's nearby craft store.  (And some of those might be usable straight from the package, too)

Viz:

(holes are a bit overscale, but the colors are not far off.)  Also:

At the scale, 1.4mm =  1cm, so a person coul be forgiven for using 1mm = 1cm for sizing.

If a person were at, say, JoAnne for beads, if might be worth a troll over to fabrics to see if they have green tulle:

As it's going to be a dead ringer for modern trawl netting.

Modern nets are in blue, red, and ocher/tan.

The nice peope at JoAnne are generally happy to sell a person a foot off the roll rather than an entire bolt (10 meters of tulle would be a lot of nets . . .)

Say Capn... this nauticle stuff is mind bending. So what is the difference between a freeing port and scupper? Did I use the wrong term "scupper" for the openings I made? I googled both terms and images of the openings I made come up under both.

Regarding closing and redoing them. Great idea but I think I will stick with what I have done. The work is already done and this will be just one in a series of compromises. Maybe my next boat I will take it farther. If I do, I'd hope to find a better canvas to build from... if it exists. 

Also... thanks for the netting ideas and such. I will reference back to this when I am ready to tackle it. Good ideas and I think the minimum I'd want to put on this model is a stowed net.

Both sides are done with the openings.

Below: My weekend inspiration shot. Keeping my inspiration pump primed. What can I say, I am a big kid. (The pieces are loosely placed.)

I am mulling how much I will paint myself in the corner if I glue the deck in. I am considering installing it because of fit issues and I can address gaps and such. The downside is that it will complicate painting. Much more masking. I probably don't have a choice. To be determined.

Hi!

     Hey, in my experience the "Scuppers" are also called "Freeing Ports" because they free the deck of items brought aboard in weather(Fishes and Small flotsam)but they also free the deck of any water that comes aboard.

    Your use of the term is not wrong. It deoends on type of ship also(Military or Civilian)  So Sail on my friend! It is coming together nicely!

Tanker-Builder

Hi!

     Hey, in my experience the "Scuppers" are also called "Freeing Ports" because they free the deck of items brought aboard in weather(Fishes and Small flotsam)but they also free the deck of any water that comes aboard.

    Your use of the term is not wrong. It deoends on type of ship also(Military or Civilian)  So Sail on my friend! It is coming together nicely!

 

Yea! Thanks TB.

Bakster

So what is the difference between a freeing port and scupper? Did I use the wrong term "scupper" for the openings I made? I googled both terms and images of the openings I made come up under both

Techinically, a scupper is only a drain, typicaly a flared end pipe through the side.

A freeing port is anything that releases trapped water.

That can be a gap in the plating it can be a hinged opening all manner of answers.

Bakster

and I think the minimum I'd want to put on this model is a stowed net.

Yep.  Probably best.  Mind, you probably was the $2 in beads, too

CapnMac82

 

 

Bakster

So what is the difference between a freeing port and scupper? Did I use the wrong term "scupper" for the openings I made? I googled both terms and images of the openings I made come up under both

 

 

Techinically, a scupper is only a drain, typicaly a flared end pipe through the side.

A freeing port is anything that releases trapped water.

That can be a gap in the plating it can be a hinged opening all manner of answers.

 

 

Bakster

and I think the minimum I'd want to put on this model is a stowed net.

 

 

Yep.  Probably best.  Mind, you probably was the $2 in beads, too

 

Hey Capn, duly noted about the freeing port. If you guys ever see me referring to something in error, please correct me.

Thanks again!

I am still working on the mast and trench. I am much closer to getting the filler shaped and done. Shaping a round mast takes a little more patience.

I also started filling holes where the stanchions go. The holes too large for the scratch builds I will make. Once I have them filled I will go back and drill undersized holes for each. That will provide locators and should help with installing new ones. 

I am using sprue-goo to fill here too. It is working well. Some were good to go on the first glopping but others need a second. This second round should do it.

And lastly... I got the 3mil FO in the mail today and I did a test. It should work well.

End of update.

Don't understand all the electronic stuff, but it looks fantastic. Another great build Bako! I had big problems with the scuppers, yes I'm calling them scuppers because that's what we called them in pussers, and that's what the trawler crews call them. (Pussers. Australian and British term for the RN and the RAN. Derives from the family name of a ship's Chandler's who supplied the RN in Nelson's day. Same principle as GI. Government Issue, Pussers Issue).

Dodgy

Bako!

        Not being a Mariner Mistakes in identifying something is normal. Don't sweat the Small S&^*! Build away, cause she's coming along nicely. After you finish that I would like to recommend a nice easy build that you can do lighting on, or not. It's WALTHER'S 1/87 Scale Waterline Railroad Tug Model. It's a nice size, Well Molded and you can do a Tall or short Wheelhouse. Your choice!

        I like them because they are easy to populate with "Wee Folks" and Bring to life, Lighting too! I heve done Both versions and detailing the wheelhouse is fun,As a matter of fact, that was an intended(unofficial) trademark of my Miniatures Company. Any ship or boat model always had a fully detailed Wheelhouse!

Bakster

If you guys ever see me referring to something in error, please correct me.

It's, to my thinking, less about precision in terminology, than in knowing a particular function.

A person could refer to "pointy bits" on, say, an airplane, and that's not likely to help communications.

Calling a Deck a Floor, for instance, is only a problem if parts of ship's frame are being also discussed.  Left & Right and Port & Starboard are not a major issue; neither Front & Back versus Fore & Aft.

And, like all precision lingos, ther terms often seem obtuse and contradictory. 
All the long straight bits are "spars."
Some are vertical, and are Masts. 
Some are horizontal and are "yards."
Unless fastened at one end, an then become Booms (if near deck level) or Gaffs.
Some bits fastened to the deck are Staffs.

This is confusing unless the function of the thing is known.

A Hatch generally seals an opening to prevent ingress of water.  But, a Skylight, which can resemble (and function like) a hactch, is actually for ventilation and light.

Recognizing the the thingamabob is essential in depicting said gizmowicket.

So, let us consider the skin of an aircraft being modeled.  An aircraft with a wooden plywood skin wil not "show" rivets.  Neither will doped fabric surfaces.

At arm's reach, the materials are inredibly similar, and flush and smooth.  At model viewing distance, they need some difference in modeling, which can exaggerate the differences.  Which is needed to model them successfully.  But, it's the function, that typically defines.

At least for my 2¢

Hey Capn, that all makes sence. Your point is well taken and this whole scupper conversation highlights the issue well. I appreciate the leeway you guys are giving me. Just know that I WILL make mistakes in terms of verbiage and of course assembly too. Heck, even on things I know a little about I use wrong words. The brain is thinking one thing when my typing does another.

Thanks again for all that. It was nicely articulated.

Steve AKA BAKO.

Dodgy

Don't understand all the electronic stuff, but it looks fantastic. Another great build Bako! I had big problems with the scuppers, yes I'm calling them scuppers because that's what we called them in pussers, and that's what the trawler crews call them. (Pussers. Australian and British term for the RN and the RAN. Derives from the family name of a ship's Chandler's who supplied the RN in Nelson's day. Same principle as GI. Government Issue, Pussers Issue).

Dodgy

 

Hey Dodgy, Bako here. I think from heaven my sis smiles at that because she called me Bako too.

Yeah the electronics stuff is not for everyone. It's kind of a pain to be honest. With luck, my adding lights will take the dio to another level of perceived realism. 

Thanks about the scuppers. It seems I may be sweating the details.

Tanker-Builder

Bako!

        Not being a Mariner Mistakes in identifying something is normal. Don't sweat the Small S&^*! Build away, cause she's coming along nicely. After you finish that I would like to recommend a nice easy build that you can do lighting on, or not. It's WALTHER'S 1/87 Scale Waterline Railroad Tug Model. It's a nice size, Well Molded and you can do a Tall or short Wheelhouse. Your choice!

        I like them because they are easy to populate with "Wee Folks" and Bring to life, Lighting too! I heve done Both versions and detailing the wheelhouse is fun,As a matter of fact, that was an intended(unofficial) trademark of my Miniatures Company. Any ship or boat model always had a fully detailed Wheelhouse!

 

Thanks, TB. I will work to get out of the weeds. 

I am noting the RR tug model. 

I have said it before... would love to see your work. 

Lastly, not much for updates this week. It was one of them work weeks. I did do more filler work but it was nothing worth updating. With Thanksgiving holiday on the horizon, I hope to make more progress on the mast. I will make the spar and hopefully get to the ladders. It would be great if I could check the mast off as complete.

I'm sorry to hear about your sister old mate. I fear mine may pass soon as she is elderly and not well. Do you mind me calling you Bako? If you're not comfortable with it, just say so.

Dodgy

just heard about your sister mate so sorry , I lost one of mine last year , 2022 hasn't been a good year either , 4 funerals in the last 5 months , 

Hello Bakster!

 Hey like Dodgy said, if Bako makes you uncomfortable I won't do it anymore. I just lost another close friend. That's three in five months. Jeez, Getting old is the pits. But, Then I see a model I wanna put through the wringer and all is right again!

Hey You(Bako)!!

     Don't worry about terminology. I have never seen terminology build a model! I only use things like that when i am talking to a Ship or Plane guy or gal when we are deep in the subject. That's like baing on a sub! They call em Boats! I call them U-Boots so who cares? We are talking about subs in this context right?  See!You will get the hang of it!

Hey Dodgy, thanks. And absolutely no worries about using Bako. I mentioned my sister only because I throught it was cool. So keep using it if you like.

Thanks, Mate!

steve5

just heard about your sister mate so sorry , I lost one of mine last year , 2022 hasn't been a good year either , 4 funerals in the last 5 months , 

 

Hi Steve, thanks. In my case she suffered with a debilitating illness for over 30 years. The tradgedy was in her suffering. I have faith her soul lives on and in a much better place.

Sorry about your losses as well!

You mentioned 4 funerals in 5 month. I feel your pain, Mate. I can relate. In the last two years:

I lost 3 aunts, 1 uncle, my sister, my Mom, a pet, and that is just the beginning. My Dad had a stroke early 2020. He is physically fairly strong but his mind is splintered, and his every waking moment spent trying to make sence of an altered reality. Then there is my best friend who is holed up a nursing home for rehab. Every time she gets close to being released, another wave of Covid hits the nursing home causing staff shortages, and setting her release back weeks to months. She has been in there near a year. Sadly, I see her health failing and I am bracing for the worst. The situation wearing her down.

Three weeks ago a coworker died suddenly. His health was not good but noone expected him to suddenly die. Another friend of mine recently lost his wife to a long battle with cancer and just 2 weeks ago one of his best friends died in a biking accident. About a year ago a coworker lost both her parents to covid and all within a weeks time. And with another coworker the man  jumped from a bridge to his death. Suicide. With one of my aunts, the day after she passed, her daughter-in-law died suddenly. Not expected.

Add all the supply chain shortages at work, all the Covid issues, and everything else going on in the world, it's like the dogs of hell were released.

I am sure many of us have similar stories. Not looking for sympathy, just sharing.

Tanker-Builder

Hey You(Bako)!!

     Don't worry about terminology. I have never seen terminology build a model! I only use things like that when i am talking to a Ship or Plane guy or gal when we are deep in the subject. That's like baing on a sub! They call em Boats! I call them U-Boots so who cares? We are talking about subs in this context right?  See!You will get the hang of it!

 

Yeah that is true. So many variants depending.

THANKS TB.

Tanker-Builder

Hello Bakster!

 Hey like Dodgy said, if Bako makes you uncomfortable I won't do it anymore. I just lost another close friend. That's three in five months. Jeez, Getting old is the pits. But, Then I see a model I wanna put through the wringer and all is right again!

 

Sorry for your losses too, TB.