Revell Northsea Fishing Trawler WIP

That wa sa handy video.  Note the floodlight under the wheelhouse overhang at 01:40

Bakster

You mention the marker lights through the cabin walls. That is too general for my brain. I located some videos of the Ross Tiger and I struggle to see any sort of marker lights on the cabin. In one shot, maybe on an arm extending from the side. It's not clear enough to see if there is a light housing on it. I need to do more research.

As Bill mentions, the red/green lamps are 112.5° fixtures.

Which might be a fisture up agains the cabin side like this:

In days of old, they often were fit on ledges:

Which has to do with the regulations that want this:

Putting "wings" on the light fixtures is/was pretty common to achieve legal compliance.
This is a masthead 135° fixture:

Stern lights would be similar.  Stern lights also mounted to bulkheads directly, and would not require the post base.

Mast lights either go straight on the face of the mast

Or, more classically on a pedestal:

All the various angles are meant to be comlimentary

Probably woud be some lights under the wheelhouse overhang, and for sure in the bow shelter.

Deciding how to model the garish lighting used by fishermen is compicated:

Oh man Capn-- that is awesome!!!  And with all of that you provided--I am probably 95% of the way there. This is gonna be cool.  I am looking forward to building these. 

THANKS!

Back to some actual work. I am showing you this mundane stuff not to show off modeling prowess. No, not in the least. Basic stuff here. Just sharing so you can follow along with the build. 

I opened up the portholes on pieces 11 and 12. They had them closed. No magic here. I used a small drill to cut a hole and I then opened the remaining using a fine needle file. Afterwards, I applied a little Tamiya Extra Thin to smooth out the roughness.

I glued those same pieces to part 9. I have the top deck positioned, not glued, so that those same pieces orient correctly. I used Extra Thin to attach them but I also used sprue-goo on the underside of the join for added strength. I also cut and glued a piece of sprue to brace the walls. I don't want the joins breaking as I manhandle the assembly. And there probably will be some of that when it comes time to attach the assembly to the main deck. There are some funky alignments and I think to get a clean join it will require some pressure. I don't want things to snap after paint. Hence the proactive reinforment.

Once cured, I will smooth out the corner joins.

I want to replace the molded ladders with PE. Hopefully, I can get a proper scale. I am not very good at figuring out that stuff. 

Good to see it's not all LEDs and high tech PE parts. Sometimes ya just gotta go for the basics  so the other can follow along later. 

Scalemates gves the trawlers scale at 1:142  which would give you a shot at 1:144 PE ladders- maybe? 

"Scalemates gves the trawlers scale at 1:142  which would give you a shot at 1:144 PE ladders- maybe?"

Say Duster, agreed, but that is the issue. I can't seem to find ladders near that scale. But that is where I am not very good at finding stuff like that. Will keep looking.

Ok, this is a test (it is only a test )

In this image:

The circled items ought be the sidelights (if with too-heavy  trim boards)

CapnMac82

Ok, this is a test (it is only a test )

In this image:

The circled items ought be the sidelights (if with too-heavy  trim boards)

 

 

 

Bingo! I noticed this last night. Below is a screen shot of the model from the link that I posted days back. You can see the builder colored it red. The other side from another angle not shown here is blue or green, can't tell. I think that is where they are supposed to go on this model. Is it technically correct? Who knows but since they put it there, that is where I will put them.

I looked at the assembly closer and sure enough, they are there and they look like the lights you noted below.

Here is how he has the bow light. I assume it the second down? Not sure.

And below, that boxy looking piece below the flag perhaps his stern light?

Ordered the kit from Amazon a week ago.  Got notice yesterday kit will arrive sometime in December!  I didn't realize they had a source in Antartica.

missileman2000

Ordered the kit from Amazon a week ago.  Got notice yesterday kit will arrive sometime in December!  I didn't realize they had a source in Antartica.

 

Don... what the heck about December! Sorry to hear about the delay. I think my local HobbyTown even has one. Ugh... Maybe cancel and look elsewhere. 

Bakster

 Bingo! I noticed this last night. Below is a screen shot of the model from the link that I posted days back. You can see the builder colored it red. The other side from another angle not shown here is blue or green, can't tell. I think that is where they are supposed to go on this model. Is it technically correct? Who knows but since they put it there, that is where I will put them.

I looked at the assembly closer and sure enough, they are there and they look like the lights you noted below.

Here is how he has the bow light. I assume it the second down? Not sure.

And below, that boxy looking piece below the flag perhaps his stern light?

 

Tes, on all counts. 
Green is the specified starboard color, but must juridiictions will aloow blue (although that's more for aviation).

On the masthead, it's--from top down--an all-around white light; an all-around red; and the 135° masthead white.

Yes, that's the stern light fixture, the "box" is its "batwings" to limit the light to the reuired angle.  That one might be the hardest one to "light" at this scale.  A person could be forgiven for moving it to the top of the stern turtlebback, allowing LED insertion from below.

Oh, and this popped up last night from Duluth as a good example of commercial vessel lighting.  And, how a person can pick out the reuired nav lights from all the other lights

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDpFAkNg1DE

(Wow, Kalmbach has "busted" the YT link again [headsmack])

Thanks, Capn. That pretty much answers all my questions and that is a cool video too.  

Now its a matter of doing. I started cutting holes into the wheelhouse light housings. Amazingly, I may have pulled it off. They are tiny. I can just fit an 0603 LED chip into them. Not sure if the light will be to scale but it's the best I can do. I will use 1206 chips for the mast and stern lights. They are larger LEDs and should produced a larger light footprint.

You have been a massive help on this.  Thanks again.

Speaking of cool video. I came across this video in my searches. It's not related to this build but I thought it cool to watch.

https://youtu.be/4RG6eupGVL4

Okay. As mentioned the holes are cut and the LEDs fitted. The wires are soldered to the LED chips and the LEDs tested while in the wheelhouse assembly.

I must say... they looked awesome lit up. The brightness is perfect and the angle of view looked decent too. I tried imaging them but the pics were blown out. Id have to try it with my camera. My smart phone is terrible for LEDs. But for now, I pulled the lights out and stowed em. I will affix them when I am ready to install the wheelhouse.

I will probably try making a lens for them using UV epoxy. I have seen other modelers use the stuff for lenses and to good effect. I would do that once they are installed. I might try cleaning up the frame some using sprue-goo. Then at some point I need to make the cabin lighting. That should be an easy deal.

That's it for now.

And the work continues.

Imagine the piece with a solid flat face. And below, material is milled out. I will use a 1206 LED for the light source. 

 Couple of points.

1. A few months back I watched a video where a builder used a drill bit to mill with. I was amazed at how nicely it cut for him. So, I tried it, and holy cats, it works great. I have a number of dremel bits for stuff like this and I tell ya, I have so much more control and precision using a drill bit. It worked really well on the piece above. Thought I'd share that and in case it might be of use to others.

2. A question for Capn and/or others. The artwork on the box has the floodlight lens having a bluish cast. Is there a precedence for this or is this just an artists imagination.

Look at the windows.  I think this is just the artists impression of the reflection of blue sea.

missileman2000

Look at the windows.  I think this is just the artists impression of the reflection of blue sea.

 

 

Yep. My thoughts too. Thanks Don.

Concur with Don.

Would have been a large incandescent lamp in the fixture (there was a fetish of a sort, back i nthe 60s for mercury-vapor lamps, but that was not common).

MV Tregurtha is called "Queen of the Lakes"--not only the last of the "thousand footers" built, but the longests at 1013'-6".  105 feet wide (max permitted by the Soo Locks).

The Duluth Ship Cnanal is oriented almost due East, and when the wind comes in off the Lake, it will build up a serious fetch which the canal focuses into a serious chop. 

The build is progressing nicely.

CapnMac82

Concur with Don.

Would have been a large incandescent lamp in the fixture (there was a fetish of a sort, back i nthe 60s for mercury-vapor lamps, but that was not common).

MV Tregurtha is called "Queen of the Lakes"--not only the last of the "thousand footers" built, but the longests at 1013'-6".  105 feet wide (max permitted by the Soo Locks).

The Duluth Ship Cnanal is oriented almost due East, and when the wind comes in off the Lake, it will build up a serious fetch which the canal focuses into a serious chop. 

The build is progressing nicely.

 

Time to go for a walk. We are getting 70s temps and I want to enjoy it while it's here. 

Did a little more on the lamp.

LED is wired and glued in.

I made a lens out of a plastic rhinestone. I sanded the facets, shaped, and polished. The lens is not permanently affixed. I will probaby do that after paint.

Btw. Just after taking the photo I flipped the assembly over to remove the lens. I wanted to stow it.  It disappeared. Out came the flashlight and ultimately I was on hands and knees looking for it. Thank goodness, I found it. It was on the floor. It is a minor miracle considering it's size and it being clear... hard to see. Anyhow... always something.

And how she looks. 

Thus ends another weekend of work. Back to the grind tomorrow.

Looks good.

Spotlight aimed at "things" though.  Like bouys, or biatfish sign on the water (or the odd. Krakken).  But, might not be on while just running along.  Duuno.

But, it gave me a thought. 

That you need to source some teeny motors--phone vibration ringer motors might be a source--to spin the radars.  Might need a pile of resistors as they typically only go around about 40-60 RPM.  Those vibration motors are only like about 3-5mm diameter, and run on 3VDC.

One radar will be the navigation--looking for other ships and the like; the other being the weather radar.    Weather radar usually has a longer bar antenna, and often runs at more than a second per revolution.  Nav radar usually right at one turn per second, as you want that display freuently refreshed.

Thanks, Capn.

"Spotlight aimed at "things" though.  Like bouys, or biatfish sign on the water (or the odd. Krakken).  But, might not be on while just running along.  Duuno."

Thanks for the push about aiming it elsewhere. I was on the fence about that. Heck. The terrified crew could be looking for Nemos sub! Or, maybe, the crew spotted a voluptuous mermaid! The possibilities are endless.  Oh, and I planned to put it on a separate circuit so I can turn the lamp on and off separate from the rest of the lighting.

"That you need to source some teeny motors--phone vibration ringer motors might be a source--to spin the radars.  Might need a pile of resistors as they typically only go around about 40-60 RPM.  Those vibration motors are only like about 3-5mm diameter, and run on 3VDC."

You crack me me up. With every build you throw out a unique challenge for me. I will review it but it might be a little out of my "percieved" realism. It would be cool though. I will check out those motors you are talking about. 

Hey Cap. Save up your strength cuz I may need you to walk me through the rigging. I am a long way off from that so don't worry about it now. But... think about how you might step by step me through. I can glue strings to masts like the next guy, but without help, that is all it will be. If we want to add some hardware and proper connections, I am gonna need help. The former would be okay too but if you want to help this landlubber take a step into rigging... I am willing to try if you are. No pressure though. Like I said, I can go basic if needs be. Again, percieved realism.

CapnMac82

Concur with Don.

Would have been a large incandescent lamp in the fixture (there was a fetish of a sort, back i nthe 60s for mercury-vapor lamps, but that was not common).

MV Tregurtha is called "Queen of the Lakes"--not only the last of the "thousand footers" built, but the longests at 1013'-6".  105 feet wide (max permitted by the Soo Locks).

The Duluth Ship Cnanal is oriented almost due East, and when the wind comes in off the Lake, it will build up a serious fetch which the canal focuses into a serious chop. 

The build is progressing nicely.

 

Cap'n, interested in your MV Tregurtha.  I am finishing up plans for an American Century.  Was going to do it in 1:700 but am now wondering if I should build it in 1:350.  As far as the ship canal, I am working on a 1:700 diorama of it, with a 700 footer in canal.

Yo Bakster!

         Here's a tip for you. If you can get some used P.E. Then, take the ladders and lay them next to the ladders molded on. If the Tread or rung portion matches the Molded ones for count(Number of rungs) then use that. I have found on ships that works best.

missileman2000

your MV Tregurtha. I am finishing up plans for an American Century. Was going to do it in 1:700 but am now wondering if I should build it in 1:350. As far as the ship canal, I am working on a 1:700 diorama of it, with a 700 footer in canal

Not mine, Great Lakes Steamship Company's

A tousand footer would be 34" inches long, and only like 3.6" wide in 1/350.  That self-unloading boom wil be an accolmpishment in either scale.

For the diorama, this might help:  https://charts.noaa.gov/BookletChart/14975_BookletChart.pdf

As to 700-footers, Arthur M. Anderson might be a good one, one of the last of the "steamers" plying the lakes.

Google Street View has some good photos of the Admin Building & Visitor's Center, and from the Canal side, too.

I'm subscribed to the Duluth Harbor Cam YT page, so I get a near-daily dose of shipfan-ing.

Everyone;

 A Ship. That which travels the High Seas or Large Lakes carrying Freight, Passengers or for Military applications.

 A Boat: That which does the same as above in many locales. Also that which can be lifted by Crane or Davits to the deck of said 'Ship".

 A "Boat" That which by it's diminutive length, Usually under one hundred foot in length, that is usually found or carried aboard a ship regularly. I.E. The "Net Boats" for Tuna boats. And the usual Twenty Four to Thirty Five foot length LIFE BOATS on said "SHIP"

 A Boat, That which may vary in length between thirty and one hundred foot which is carried on deck of ANY ship or that is used for, Inshore Work or Pleasure around the world.

  A Boat, That which is made of wood, Paper, or Plastic used for recreation by children or, Adults who do not wish to grow up completely. May actually be Radio Controlled and up to the 24 or 30 foot range down to 10 to 60 inches in length and smaller.

A Boat. That which is found in museums in cases, I.E. "Daddy, can we see the Boats at the Museum"?

Bakster

The former would be okay too but if you want to help this landlubber take a step into rigging... I am willing to try if you are. No pressure though. Like I said, I can go basic if needs be. Again, percieved realism.

Probably about the right time to sit down with the Bluejacket catalog and start looking at ordering some "bits"--mast bands possibly, blocks for sure--these will want to be the diamond-shaped commercial blocks.  Those latter are cataloged for use on 1/16"=1'-0" scale cargo ships, so the "jump" from 1/192 to 1/142 will be absorbed by the change in ship size.

Model Shipways and AJ Fisher both catalog brass turnbuckles, which will be wanted for the stays on the after mast.

May need some very fine wire to relicate wire repe rigging, that will bear thinking about later.  Fastening it will be both simple, and fiddly--such is ship rigging.  Fine tubing twice the size of the wire is used, pas the wire through an eye or around a mast, and back through the tube, and a tab of CA, presto.  If needing about 5 hands & three pairs tweezers . . .

CapnMac82

Probably about the right time to sit down with the Bluejacket catalog and start looking at ordering some "bits"--mast bands possibly, blocks for sure--these will want to be the diamond-shaped commercial blocks.  Those latter are cataloged for use on 1/16"=1'-0" scale cargo ships, so the "jump" from 1/192 to 1/142 will be absorbed by the change in ship size.

Sounds like a plan. Will review as I progress.

Tanker-Builder

Yo Bakster!

         Here's a tip for you. If you can get some used P.E. Then, take the ladders and lay them next to the ladders molded on. If the Tread or rung portion matches the Molded ones for count(Number of rungs) then use that. I have found on ships that works best.

 

Thanks for the tip. Probably punting on this because I can't find any in the correct scale. No biggie. Thought if it was available I'd get them. The build I linked to earlier found some PE ladders. Those could be nice if I can find them.

Bakster

The build I linked to earlier found some PE ladders. Those could be nice if I can find them.

Even odds those were 1/144 ladders, which would be "near enough" to the stated 1/142 scale on the box.  And, better a skosh under-size than over, really.

Three feet at 1/144 = 0.25" three feet at 1/142 = 0.2535"

I can see sweating 35 ten-thousandths if it were a valve lash adjustment, and on a high-rev engine.  For PE, perhaps less so.

Wandering the 'net, found this, which is interesting:
http://nautilusmodels.com/144-204.htm

Went to scalemates (finally) and found this series of photos.  Mostly of Ross Jackal, but some of Ross Tiger.  Some good detail shots in there.
https://www.scalemates.com/profiles/mate.php?id=13641&p=albums&album=48458&i=2#2

"The build I linked to earlier found some PE ladders. Those could be nice if I can find them."

I meant to.say stairs.

CapnMac82

 

 

Bakster

The build I linked to earlier found some PE ladders. Those could be nice if I can find them.

 

 

Even odds those were 1/144 ladders, which would be "near enough" to the stated 1/142 scale on the box.  And, better a skosh under-size than over, really.

Three feet at 1/144 = 0.25" three feet at 1/142 = 0.2535"

I can see sweating 35 ten-thousandths if it were a valve lash adjustment, and on a high-rev engine.  For PE, perhaps less so.

Wandering the 'net, found this, which is interesting:
http://nautilusmodels.com/144-204.htm

Went to scalemates (finally) and found this series of photos.  Mostly of Ross Jackal, but some of Ross Tiger.  Some good detail shots in there.
https://www.scalemates.com/profiles/mate.php?id=13641&p=albums&album=48458&i=2#2

 

Capn, nice work!  I agree. I don't think that difference is enough to fret over. I will look into that more.

Also nice work on finding those images. Some good photos to study indeed.

Again, nice work, and THANKS.