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The Bullion Express--Boot Hill Express (Reboot 10-4-22)

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  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, August 1, 2021 11:48 AM

Tanker-Builder
Because of the curves and for clarity in this particular build, I would recommend.010 or .005 Styrene clear sheet for the windows!

Funny you should mention this TB. I was just researching the available thickness options. 

Tanker-Builder
Y

Hey, thanks for the push! I always appreciate that. But no worries. I won't let a crummy window stop me. I am just glad we have options to overcome things like this. Unlike when I was a kid, with little money, and little skill.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, August 1, 2021 11:41 AM

As usual Gam, I wish the project was advancing faster. Just not enough time. Thanks for following!

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Sunday, August 1, 2021 10:26 AM

Hi; 

 Because of the curves and for clarity in this particular build, I would recommend.010 or .005 Styrene clear sheet for the windows! You have worked to hatd to let those crummy pieces of  clear plastic stop you !

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Sunday, August 1, 2021 8:54 AM

Sounds cool!

Again no helpful ideas- I'll just sit back and watch.

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Saturday, July 31, 2021 5:52 PM

As I wait for paint to dry on the roof assembly-- I am pressing forward. 

I decided about the chain mail. I was initially considering having them placed forward of the valance panels. For lack of space, fitting them between the sandwiched glass is a problem. I considered moving the glass assembly forward via spacers, but this would create open air gaps around the glass. With a fair amount of work, I might be able fix that but after further review-- it will present a lot of challenges and pitfalls. Moving the valances backward is an even more challenging option. I do not think any of this is worth the time and the risk. So--I will probably move the chain mail to behind the valance panels. What the heck. If I have any incoming rounds, the panels will get shredded either way. Nemo has people that can fix that stuff. Wink

Btw--I ordered the chain mail kit that GM linked to. Their product is something a person could fabricate using map tacks and chain, but their kit saves me the time of trying to source the correct scale. And heck, I like to support businesses too. Once I get them, I will see just how much clearance I will need. There IS a gap between the glass and panels, but I doubt it will be enough. We shall see.

Below: I removed the crummy tassels. I will try fabricating something better.

While I researched gaps for the chain mail-- I tested the remaining glass pieces for fit. See below...yet more 1960s quality. The arc of the piece is way off. Bending and holding that piece will take considerable bonding power that would most likely fail. Funny thing is-- I remember I had the same issue when I built this many years ago. It was another punch to the stomach for a young kid trying to build something cool.

In trying to force that bend internal stress fractures formed. I suspected that might happen and it's unfortunate. Just for grins-- I also tried heating it, but the continued stresses created more fractures. It turns the plastic frosty. So-- I see no other option but to fabricate the piece using clear sheet styrene. In the end, it will have better clarity than the thick kit provided piece. And fortunately-- the kit provided piece does not have any beveled detail. Going with the sheet styrene should be a seamless transition.

And that ends my babble for the day. 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Monday, July 26, 2021 9:53 PM

Sounds good! Looking forward to the photos. 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, July 25, 2021 8:19 PM

So, no updates today but I can tell you that this is still being worked on. As previously mentioned I had some filler rework to do. With that complete, it is not 100% perfect, but darn close and good enough for me.

The roof and ceiling are primed, then just today the roof painted green. I am attempting to weather the roof. I want a sort of sun bleached look to it. When it comes to weathering, it's a velocity killer for me because I don't always know how to get the look that I am going after. Not one of my strengths, yet. So, I have to test things, and that becomes a process. I sure wish I had the weathering skillset that some of you guys have. Anyhow, I think I have a plan for the bleaching. More on that at the reveal.

The plan is to paint the roof, ceiling, install the guns, gun housing, and lastly, the stack. This will pretty much complete the roof assembly. I estimate two weeks.

See you on the flip side.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, July 25, 2021 7:57 PM

Dodgy

I don't know how I missed this thread. Awsome work and ideas. Will be watching from now on.

 

Welcome aboard, Dodgy. Glad to have you following. And thanks for the encouragement!

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, July 25, 2021 7:56 PM

Tanker-Builder

Hi; Sorry it took so long to get back to you on this!

       The project I used the most on lately is an Multi - Piece " N " scale parking lot. I used Sproo-Gloo to fill the seams. Yes, it did shrink. Yes, when I sanded the residue away it was perfectly flat. The Cure time for the beads of stuff applied in the cracks was four days!. Yup, it has a long Application to Sandability time frame.

       Thicker Sproo Gloo, Takes less time but workabaaility is also poorer as in terms of laying it down in the correct spot. Plus you don't want a raised dot! You want something that will blend in. There is a " Happy Medium" but you have to find one you're satisfied with. 

   

 

No worries, TB. Thanks for responding. Yeah it's a little slow in ways but it works well.

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Sunday, July 25, 2021 9:05 AM

Hi; Sorry it took so long to get back to you on this!

       The project I used the most on lately is an Multi - Piece " N " scale parking lot. I used Sproo-Gloo to fill the seams. Yes, it did shrink. Yes, when I sanded the residue away it was perfectly flat. The Cure time for the beads of stuff applied in the cracks was four days!. Yup, it has a long Application to Sandability time frame.

       Thicker Sproo Gloo, Takes less time but workabaaility is also poorer as in terms of laying it down in the correct spot. Plus you don't want a raised dot! You want something that will blend in. There is a " Happy Medium" but you have to find one you're satisfied with. 

   

  • Member since
    August 2020
  • From: Lakes Entrance, Victoria, Australia.
Posted by Dodgy on Sunday, July 25, 2021 2:09 AM

I don't know how I missed this thread. Awsome work and ideas. Will be watching from now on.

I long to live in a world where chickens can cross the road without having their motives questioned

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Monday, July 19, 2021 2:49 PM

Hey TB--you have nothing to be sorry for. I should have known on my own because this is not my first rodeo with the, "GOO!" Giddy up!

Hey--but--maybe you have a feel for how long it takes for the stuff to finally settle. Roughly how many days? Do you know?

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Monday, July 19, 2021 10:50 AM

Surprisingly:

 I forgot to mention that you have to use more than one layer for bigger projects. I do apologise for that, My Bad!

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Monday, July 19, 2021 8:43 AM

Gamera
Sorry, nothing really to contribute but I'm just going to stand here

Kind of how I feel. Lol

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Monday, July 19, 2021 8:15 AM

Sorry, nothing really to contribute but I'm just going to stand here and oh and ah...

 

Really like how this is going and all the great ideas...

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, July 18, 2021 7:43 PM

Primed the roof assembly and I found some pin holes I have to fill. Amazing what you find once the primer goes on. I also found a slight depression in one section that I had filled.

In the interest of full disclosure: I have come to realize that I forgot a learned lesson. Remember that I used sprugoo as a filler? What I forgot is that the stuff tends to shrink. So when I had the roof looking really good, weeks later I looked again and I noticed some depressions in my work. Then it hit me... it shrunk. I had once used sprugoo to cast a figure and I found that over time, the figure shrank dramatically. I am talking like half the size. I forgot that little lesson.

Anyhow, to fix the issues I had to apply some CA. I still like sprugoo but I have to try and remind myself that it shrinks over time and using it as a filler should be limited to thin layers, if even that. I will probably just stick with CA for bigger jobs.

I came across this awesome train setup. Their weathering is tremendous.

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Saturday, July 17, 2021 5:05 PM

goldhammer
Was thinking more of chainmail curtains tied back like the kit ones, rather than armor.

Oh! That is interesting! I like that idea! Hmm. I will need to research this.

Thanks for that. I likey. 

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Saturday, July 17, 2021 4:57 PM

Looks like finer window screen.  Mesh numbers refer to number of openings per square inch.

Was thinking more of chainmail curtains tied back like the kit ones, rather than armor.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Saturday, July 17, 2021 4:49 PM

goldhammer

I'd take a look at some fine mesh tule fabric, or something on the line of 70 mesh screen.  If fabric could soak in diluted white glue, press between towels to keep the mesh open.  Form to shape, dry and paint steel or silver.

Various mesh screens are available from Jobe and Keene as gold classifiers.  Don't know if available as just the screen, but should be somewhere.

Would add to the armored look of the project

 

Hey GH. Can you find me an image of mesh used in the real world? I am fuzzy about how this applies to armor and how it would look?

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Saturday, July 17, 2021 4:44 PM

Bakster

 

 
GMorrison

 

 

 

I like where you are going with this. Your design is how I imagined you might go with it and I like it. This could take the build to whole other level. There are two issues that I see.   I am not sure I would want the chains to hang so low because they would block view of the gold. The gold is such a big part of the plot. I could raise the chains but does that compromise the credibility of having them? Secondly. I need to review the logistics of it. I believe I'd have to push the valance panel back, and possible the floor as well in order to give clearance between the glass.

 

 

Ok, here is what I found out. There is a gap between the window and valance/floor, but I don't think it's wide enough to accommodate the ball and maybe not even the chain. Rather than push the valence/floor back, (it would be a nightmare to pull off), I could push the window forward. As it is there are tiny spacers built into the frame lifting the window and I'd suppose act as mounting pins. I could make longer ones pushing the window forward. Now, the downside is that this creates larger gaps around the window. There is a solution though. I can extend the borders using flat stock and the good thing is that the trim of the window will be painted, thus hiding any work that I do.

So, long story short, it seems doable. I'd be interested in peoples views about shortening the chain lengths. Seeing a good portion of the gold pile is for me, imperative. Open to thoughts and ideas. 

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Saturday, July 17, 2021 4:12 PM

CapnMac82
For tassles, you might look at braided wire with the jacket stripped away.

That is certainly a possibility.

What I was thinking is to use an artist brush. Lop off the ends for a straight cut, then cut the bunch off just above the bristles where they are held in place. Maybe use some CA to bind the bristles firmly into what remains of the holder and then fashion some sort of decorative end. I would try to find some cheap brushes that fit the bill. The scale is pretty close too. The unkowns are unknown until I try it. I can imagine the whole thing falling apart while cutting but one never knows. If that would happen i could dunk the bristles in thin CA beforehand to bind them together. We shall see.

Thanks about the foil, too. 

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: Formerly Bryan, now Arlington, Texas
Posted by CapnMac82 on Saturday, July 17, 2021 1:06 PM

Chain might be a pain, especially made up as mail.

Now, the Merkava-style chain, with a ball weight on the end could be interesting.

I dunno.

Youghurt and some sour cream container foil lids offer a nicely foldable material--if sometimes with funky textures.

Finding a restaurant supply house could net you some restaurant heavy-weight AL foil (leaves the Renyolds stuff in the dust).  RSH will also have supplies of heavier-weight paper products like napkins and the like (and might have some "lace" products as well).

For tassles, you might look at braided wire with the jacket stripped away.

For larger scale, a person could poke a couple of pins in something and wrap thread around the two pins eebenty dozen times. 

Take a bit of the tread and make a loop around all the strands and snub it up against each of the pins.  This will be the "hanger" thread.

Take another bit of thread and pass it around the loops in between the pins, but snubbed up close, and take 5-7 wraps around and tie off. 

Cut in between the pins and you ought have two tassles.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Saturday, July 17, 2021 12:53 PM

goldhammer

I'd take a look at some fine mesh tule fabric, or something on the line of 70 mesh screen.  If fabric could soak in diluted white glue, press between towels to keep the mesh open.  Form to shape, dry and paint steel or silver.

Various mesh screens are available from Jobe and Keene as gold classifiers.  Don't know if available as just the screen, but should be somewhere.

Would add to the armored look of the project

 

Thanks GH! Good idea.  I am reviewing... Yes

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Saturday, July 17, 2021 12:34 PM

GMorrison

 

I like where you are going with this. Your design is how I imagined you might go with it and I like it. This could take the build to whole other level. There are two issues that I see.   I am not sure I would want the chains to hang so low because they would block view of the gold. The gold is such a big part of the plot. I could raise the chains but does that compromise the credibility of having them? Secondly. I need to review the logistics of it. I believe I'd have to push the valance panel back, and possible the floor as well in order to give clearance between the glass.

 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, July 16, 2021 11:20 PM

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Friday, July 16, 2021 6:56 PM

I'd take a look at some fine mesh tule fabric, or something on the line of 70 mesh screen.  If fabric could soak in diluted white glue, press between towels to keep the mesh open.  Form to shape, dry and paint steel or silver.

Various mesh screens are available from Jobe and Keene as gold classifiers.  Don't know if available as just the screen, but should be somewhere.

Would add to the armored look of the project

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Friday, July 16, 2021 4:59 PM

GMorrison

I think this calls for chain mail.

Or rows of hanging chains like the IDF uses to keep RPG rounds out of the slot between a Merkava turret and hull. With little weights on the bottoms.

 Like this, but make your own...

https://dnmodels.com/product/ball-and-chain/

Bill

 

Wow, Bill. Now THAT is an interesting idea. What would you propose? Do I remove the side valances completely? Replace them with chain? What is your vision? 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, July 16, 2021 12:45 PM

I think this calls for chain mail.

Or rows of hanging chains like the IDF uses to keep RPG rounds out of the slot between a Merkava turret and hull. With little weights on the bottoms.

 Like this, but make your own...

https://dnmodels.com/product/ball-and-chain/

Bill

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Friday, July 16, 2021 11:41 AM

Tanker-Builder

Hey!

 There is a miniature company that puts out a nice catalogue. They might have something Besides the Tassles( Them Too) and other stuff. I will get back to you with their name tomorrow. I am not at home right now.

 

Ok thanks TB. Looking forward to it.

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Friday, July 16, 2021 11:28 AM

Hey!

 There is a miniature company that puts out a nice catalogue. They might have something Besides the Tassles( Them Too) and other stuff. I will get back to you with their name tomorrow. I am not at home right now.

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