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Knights of the Sky II- The End

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  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Saturday, December 27, 2008 9:58 PM
 Luftwoller wrote:

Here you go big boy. And look at me with the clever link thingy.                                         Click Here

...Guy

Nice job on the link, now I'm gonna go check it out. Big Smile [:D]

Mike- I dunno if you're crazy or brave, but either way you're in the right place!  I added the DH-2 to the list, let me know if you want me to add that E.V in the future.  After the SE 5a and the DH-2, maybe something like a Brisfit would complete your plunge into rigging insanity! Smile,Wink, & Grin [swg]

 

Frank 

 

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • From: Wherever the hunt takes me
Posted by Boba Fett on Saturday, December 27, 2008 10:40 PM
 lewbud wrote:

 Boba Fett wrote:
Daywalker! I have the planes! Went to the Hobby Town with some of my Christmas money and I got (both Revell 1/72) Fokker Dr.1 tri and Sopwith tri. I'm going to do a little in-flight display of Richthofen knocking the Sop down. It may not be 100% accurate but  I thought it would be a cool idea. Now, how did Manfred von Richthofen have his plane painted?

Boba,

Richtofen had various paint schemes throughout his career, maybe just stick with the all red scheme.  I did find a Roden kit of one of his Dr. 1's that was red forward of the cockpit and then a faded od green aft that was kinda cool.  May have to go back and pick that kit up.

Thanks! I saw multiple pics when I googles for them of his plane. I thought that the red with white cowling and tail looked cool, but hard to paint. If I in-fact did this, how should I do the white? I know that white should be done first, but who makes the best white in acrylic? Thanks!

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Saturday, December 27, 2008 10:45 PM

Graham-

I use Tamiya acrylics almost exclusively, and have had great luck with their flat white.  Pick up some Tamiya X-20A thinner, it has a retarder in it to help it lay down well. Thumbs Up [tup]

Frank 

 

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Bournemouth UK
Posted by Luftwoller on Sunday, December 28, 2008 4:16 AM

Hey Frank, i use Tamiya acrylics almost exclusively myself. Have you tried using them with thier own Laquer thinner? Ill never use normal thinner again. The stuff is the bomb mate.

Very good indeed.

...Guy

..'Your an embarrassment to the human genus, makes me ashamed to call myself Homo'.
  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Sunday, December 28, 2008 8:31 AM
Guy- I have never used their lacquer thinner, but if I can obtain results like your 109K with it, I'm sold!  You actually use the lacquer thinner with their acrylics?  Placing an Internet hobby order tomorrow, and I know they carry Tamiya stuff.  If they have it, I'll get some and try it.  Thanks for the tip! Big Smile [:D]

Frank 

 

  • Member since
    May 2008
  • From: Wherever the hunt takes me
Posted by Boba Fett on Sunday, December 28, 2008 2:13 PM
Ok. Thanks. I never uesd Tamiya much due to cost and a wierd oder. Usually I use Model Master Acryl but whenever I try to paint white, it never covers. Maybe I could rattle-can the parts that are white and install them later? Finally, When were Sopwith Triplanes in service in relation to the baron? (hehe, too lazy to even use Wikipedia! Whistling [:-^])

  • Member since
    June 2008
Posted by lewbud on Sunday, December 28, 2008 4:09 PM

 Boba Fett wrote:
Ok. Thanks. I never uesd Tamiya much due to cost and a wierd oder. Usually I use Model Master Acryl but whenever I try to paint white, it never covers. Maybe I could rattle-can the parts that are white and install them later? Finally, When were Sopwith Triplanes in service in relation to the baron? (hehe, too lazy to even use Wikipedia! Whistling [:-^])

Graham,

Get yourself some Tamiya white primer and then cover it with some flat white (it covers better than gloss), then cover that with the gloss or semi gloss.  Another thing you might try is misting on the first couple of coats, followed by a medium coat and then a wet coat.  If that doesn't work, and this is going to sound counterintuitive, go to your local auto parts store and get some black primer then shoot the white.  I know it sounds weird but I've met guys that swear by it.  I prefer the white over the white primer method myself.  As with everything else, practice on some scrap first.

Mobius,

Even though the link didn't work, thanks for pointing me in the right direction.  I think I found the answer, but there was a lot of info to be digested.  Even found some stuff to try on the builds once I get going.  Again thanks.  I followed your LWS build and look forward to watching this build unfold as well.

Buddy- Those who say there are no stupid questions have never worked in customer service.

  • Member since
    September 2007
  • From: Relocating
Posted by Mobious on Sunday, December 28, 2008 9:26 PM

 Boba, I use valejo and have the same problem with white. Might try the X-20A thinner daywalker was refering to.

 loftwoller, I thought I seen you post a German WWII fighter. I'm sorry I couldn't remember it was a 109 and not an FW. Beautimus, Very nice work!

 lewbud, That really is a vast amount of reference/tips in Stephen's post. I read it again and find it very helpful. thanks for following the LWS build.

 hey ruddratt, I was rigging an Albatross DIII, when I seen your post.Confused [%-)] 

 Daywalker, Put me in for an Eduard 1/48 Sopwith Camel too.

 Mobious

 

"It's a problem of applied physics" Roy Brown

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Sunday, December 28, 2008 9:30 PM
 Mobious wrote:

Daywalker, Put me in for an Eduard 1/48 Sopwith Camel too.

You got it! Big Smile [:D]

Frank 

 

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: Colorado
Posted by StephenLawson on Monday, December 29, 2008 5:58 AM

Actually MvR never flew a Dr.I with a white cowling.  This comes from a bad interpretation of a fourth generation photo of him test flying one of the early preproduction F.I triplanes. It had an all natural metal cowling and factory finish.  As for him downing a Sopwith Triplane, he did while flying an Albatros D.III . . . here is what his victory tally lists.

#5229 Apr 19171940 hrs Jasta 11Albatros D.IIISopwith Triplane (N5463)Between Billy-Montigny and Sallaumines

Click Here

 

Stachel...unconfirmed by Armee means unconfirmed!!!!

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: Colorado
Posted by StephenLawson on Monday, December 29, 2008 6:28 AM

 squeakie wrote:
OK, I now have even more questions for the masses! I've been going thru this Ospry book about Jasta 2 Boelcke (a good book by the way for history buffs). . . ."

It is an excellent reference. 

 squeakie wrote:
Anyway in the book they state that many Dr. I and D. VII types were shipped with that streaked camo from the factory.(sorta like a bad O.D. paint job). I'm thinking that that's going to be the basis for my build, and then go on from there. Will I still need to do the lozenge camo in the interior? Secondly can any of you aces recommend a good way to replicate that streaked paint job other than with a stiff brush?

The early production Fok. D.VII types had the fuselages in the Fokker factory streaked green over CDL (clear doped linen.)  The wings were in 4 or 5 colour lozenge camouflage. The fuselage fabric envelope was attached to the airframe, doped first then painted.  So the camouflage green did not penetrate to the inner face of the fabric.  The lozenge was printed at the textile plant and th dyes did penetrate slightly to the inner face.  So if your fuselage is streaked green over CDL then just CDL the interior of the simulated fabric for the cockpit.

 squeakie wrote:
And now that I've found out there's other things to model besides FW190's, I've come to the conclusion that somewhere in my life I gotta build a Dr.I in 1/48th or even 1/32 scale. Can anyone recommend a good kit?

For the Fok. Dr.I in 1/48 see Eduard.  In 1/32 see Roden. 

 squeakie wrote:
And last just how good is the Eduard Albatross DII?  gary

The Eduard kit is an excellent choice to do a 1/48 Alb. D.II.

 

Stachel...unconfirmed by Armee means unconfirmed!!!!

  • Member since
    June 2007
Posted by squeakie on Monday, December 29, 2008 12:35 PM
 StephenLawson wrote:

 squeakie wrote:
OK, I now have even more questions for the masses! I've been going thru this Ospry book about Jasta 2 Boelcke (a good book by the way for history buffs). . . ."

It is an excellent reference. 

 squeakie wrote:
Anyway in the book they state that many Dr. I and D. VII types were shipped with that streaked camo from the factory.(sorta like a bad O.D. paint job). I'm thinking that that's going to be the basis for my build, and then go on from there. Will I still need to do the lozenge camo in the interior? Secondly can any of you aces recommend a good way to replicate that streaked paint job other than with a stiff brush?

The early production Fok. D.VII types had the fuselages in the Fokker factory streaked green over CDL (clear doped linen.)  The wings were in 4 or 5 colour lozenge camouflage. The fuselage fabric envelope was attached to the airframe, doped first then painted.  So the camouflage green did not penetrate to the inner face of the fabric.  The lozenge was printed at the textile plant and th dyes did penetrate slightly to the inner face.  So if your fuselage is streaked green over CDL then just CDL the interior of the simulated fabric for the cockpit.

 squeakie wrote:
And now that I've found out there's other things to model besides FW190's, I've come to the conclusion that somewhere in my life I gotta build a Dr.I in 1/48th or even 1/32 scale. Can anyone recommend a good kit?

For the Fok. Dr.I in 1/48 see Eduard.  In 1/32 see Roden. 

 squeakie wrote:
And last just how good is the Eduard Albatross DII?  gary

The Eduard kit is an excellent choice to do a 1/48 Alb. D.II.

Once again Stephen; thanks a bunch. I gather that the interior will be a natural linen color; right? And while on the subject of the D-VII; I managed to pick up a couple sets of "OAW" late decale sheets the otherday. So now I want to build a late "OAW" too. You guys are killing my checking account!

   I bought that Eduard kit, and plan on building Oswald Boelcke's plane sometime in the future. Thanks for the advice on the DR1. Kinda wonder if anybody did a set of decales for Kempf's DR1 triplane?

once again thanks

gary

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Monday, December 29, 2008 12:37 PM

I was at my LHS this morning, and picked up a new kit for this GB.  The Eduard 1/48 Albatros D.III.  I have wanted to try one of these with the natural wood finish fuselages, and this kit came with some nice simple markings.  Unfortunately, the decals are badly out of register and need to be replaced.  Otherwise, a very sharp looking model!  I have seen some other markings on these birds, and am going to try finding some other decals. Thumbs Up [tup]

 

Frank 

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Monday, December 29, 2008 12:47 PM
Wow, Albatros decals seem to be as rare as hen's teeth.  I found a couple of sheets over at Squadron, but nothing like what I am looking for.  Does anyone have another source for 1/48 D.III decals?

Frank 

 

  • Member since
    September 2007
  • From: Relocating
Posted by Mobious on Monday, December 29, 2008 4:36 PM

Hello daywalker,

 Sprue Brothers has the Eagle Strike Albatross DIII (Flying Circus) Pt VIII in stock, but it looks like none of the DIII's are in a natural finish, maybe one. Just finished up on Richthofen's Albatross from the earlier Eduard release. Here's a pic.

 This was a penance build for the DNF that I got in the Weekend Madness GB.

 Mobious 

"It's a problem of applied physics" Roy Brown

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: Colorado
Posted by StephenLawson on Monday, December 29, 2008 5:32 PM

 squeakie wrote:
" . . Once again Stephen; thanks a bunch. I gather that the interior will be a natural linen color; right? . . ."

". . .So if your fuselage is streaked green over CDL then just CDL the interior of the simulated fabric for the cockpit. . ."

 

Stachel...unconfirmed by Armee means unconfirmed!!!!

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Monday, December 29, 2008 10:12 PM

Now THAT is a sweet looking Albatros Mobious!  Appreciate the help on the decals too. Approve [^]  I took a look at those, and they all have the stright crosses.  I found part 2 in that series over at Squadron, might have to order those. 

TWO MORE DAYS EVERYONE!

Frank 

 

  • Member since
    September 2007
  • From: Relocating
Posted by Mobious on Monday, December 29, 2008 10:49 PM

 Hey thanks Daywalker. Looking forward to seeing the Albatross you have planned. I love the look of those in the wood finish. Ordered a couple of the Osprey "Aces" series of books.

 Mobious 

"It's a problem of applied physics" Roy Brown

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: Colorado
Posted by StephenLawson on Tuesday, December 30, 2008 1:46 AM
 StephenLawson wrote:
 StephenLawson wrote:
Frank . . .Sign me up.  I'll try to finish up  what I have now for the 1st GB and see what I have on the shelf for the next few months.

Since things are clicking along on my bench for 2009 I will commit to;

1@ Roden 1/48 Junker D.I (short fuselage)

2@ Roden 1/48 SE 5a Viper powered. (From the original 4@ 1/48 SE 5a kits I began in 2008).

1@ Roden 1/32 SE 5a. (Transplant)

For a start. Then there are the Eduard kits I have on the shelf that need my attention.

Greetings Frank,

Please reflect here and there that the Roden 1/32 SE 5a will not be transferred to this thread.  Its finished and images posted on page 94 at the end of part I.  Now where is my pillow? 

 

Stachel...unconfirmed by Armee means unconfirmed!!!!

  • Member since
    June 2007
Posted by squeakie on Tuesday, December 30, 2008 1:58 AM
 Mobious wrote:

Hello daywalker,

 Sprue Brothers has the Eagle Strike Albatross DIII (Flying Circus) Pt VIII in stock, but it looks like none of the DIII's are in a natural finish, maybe one. Just finished up on Richthofen's Albatross from the earlier Eduard release. Here's a pic.

 This was a penance build for the DNF that I got in the Weekend Madness GB.

 Mobious 

for whatever it's worth Ospry has a print of Richthofen's DIII he used with Boelcke's JGS2. It's kinda generic looking looking natural wood finish. I also found a photo of a D-V that had sheetmetal sides around the cockpit! But who flew it was unknown. (has a red eagle on the sides)

gary

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • From: london-uk
Posted by ludwig113 on Tuesday, December 30, 2008 6:29 AM

 

"for whatever it's worth Ospry has a print of Richthofen's DIII he used with Boelcke's JGS2. It's kinda generic looking looking natural wood finish. I also found a photo of a D-V that had sheetmetal sides around the cockpit! But who flew it was unknown. (has a red eagle on the sides)"

gary

 

hi gary, i'd like to see that pic of the d-v if you've got it handy,got a d-v dual combo in the stash................

  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: Richmond, Va.
Posted by Pavlvs on Tuesday, December 30, 2008 9:03 AM
Guys, we are talking deep blue hero stuff! Of course, I'm in.

I will be building the Revell Germany 1/28 scale Fokker Triplane but it will not be red (EBGO). I am looking forward to much scratchbuilding to spiff up the details on this one. I just need one question answered. To take the temper out of brass, do we heat it and quench it or do we heat it and let it cool slowly? I cannot remember.

Deus in minutiae est. Fr. Pavlvs

On the Bench: 1:200 Titanic; 1:16 CSA Parrott rifle and Limber

On Deck: 1/200 Arizona.

Recently Completed: 1/72 Gato (as USS Silversides)

  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: Richmond, Va.
Posted by Pavlvs on Tuesday, December 30, 2008 9:22 AM
Can anybody tell me why my Knights of the Sky badge is chopped off?

Deus in minutiae est. Fr. Pavlvs

On the Bench: 1:200 Titanic; 1:16 CSA Parrott rifle and Limber

On Deck: 1/200 Arizona.

Recently Completed: 1/72 Gato (as USS Silversides)

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Austin, TX
Posted by amilder on Tuesday, December 30, 2008 10:57 AM

 Pavlvs wrote:
Can anybody tell me why my Knights of the Sky badge is chopped off?

I had trouble with that too. There's like a maximum width and then it puts the next picture on the next line. I had to shrink the badges down in MS Paint to get them all to fit on one line.

Andy
  • Member since
    September 2007
  • From: Relocating
Posted by Mobious on Tuesday, December 30, 2008 11:19 AM
 ludwig113 wrote:

 

"for whatever it's worth Ospry has a print of Richthofen's DIII he used with Boelcke's JGS2. It's kinda generic looking looking natural wood finish. I also found a photo of a D-V that had sheetmetal sides around the cockpit! But who flew it was unknown. (has a red eagle on the sides)"

gary

 

hi gary, i'd like to see that pic of the d-v if you've got it handy,got a d-v dual combo in the stash................

 hey ludwig, Odered the Osprey book covering Albatross Aces yesterday. I know I will end up building one with a wood finish. That DIII was built OOB except for the MG shields, had to use the box art for reference. Still trying to figure out how to alter my weathering techniques on aircraft so they don't end up looking like tanks with wings. I did pick up on a pin wash technique with acrylics that worked really well on the panel lines from the FSM "How To" articles.

 Mo

 

"It's a problem of applied physics" Roy Brown

  • Member since
    June 2007
Posted by squeakie on Tuesday, December 30, 2008 12:04 PM

 Pavlvs wrote:
Guys, we are talking deep blue hero stuff! Of course, I'm in.

I will be building the Revell Germany 1/28 scale Fokker Triplane but it will not be red (EBGO). I am looking forward to much scratchbuilding to spiff up the details on this one. I just need one question answered. To take the temper out of brass, do we heat it and quench it or do we heat it and let it cool slowly? I cannot remember.

If you quench the brass after heating it, it will actually get kinda brittle. Best heat it to about 400f and then let it aircool. A good place to anneal brass is in the oven. Bring it up to heat, and then just turn it off after about five minutes.

gary

  • Member since
    June 2007
Posted by squeakie on Tuesday, December 30, 2008 12:06 PM
 ludwig113 wrote:

 

"for whatever it's worth Ospry has a print of Richthofen's DIII he used with Boelcke's JGS2. It's kinda generic looking looking natural wood finish. I also found a photo of a D-V that had sheetmetal sides around the cockpit! But who flew it was unknown. (has a red eagle on the sides)"

gary

 

hi gary, i'd like to see that pic of the d-v if you've got it handy,got a d-v dual combo in the stash................

I'll scan that picture, and try to get it posted tonight. If I can't get it to work I'll email it to you.

gary

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: South Coast NSW, Australia
Posted by Simon L on Tuesday, December 30, 2008 5:27 PM

Hi , please sign me up for this one.

Eduard 1/48 Fokker Dr1 flown by Friedrich Kempf.

Simon

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Tuesday, December 30, 2008 7:21 PM

Stephen- Got it!  I updated page 1 here and over there.  Stunning build Stephen! Approve [^]

Pavlvs and Simon L- Sign - Welcome [#welcome] fellas!  I added you to the list on page one.  Get ready for some here, as we kick this off very soon! Big Smile [:D]

Great tip on the annealing using the home oven, a lot safer than trying to heat it over an open flame.  Thanks for the tip! Thumbs Up [tup]

Frank 

 

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Wednesday, December 31, 2008 7:37 AM

Well, seeing as it is January 1st in parts of the world, I hereby declare:

GENTLEMEN- START YOUR ENGINES!  THIS GB IS A GO!

Frank 

 

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