Knights of the Sky II- The End

Now for the choice of engine.  Since the Junker Company (Jco) did not geta BMW IIIa assigned to them until Sept. 1918 I went for the Mercedes installation.  Below are some options and a bit of fun.  The 260hp was too large and never done but is wide enought to be accepted in the kit airframe.  The Roden 180hp with the stand up air pump is a choice and the Pavla 200hp with the horizontal  pump is another.

Working with the new Junker Datafile (#131)  I settled on a light mossy green for this build as a base.

I went with the 200hp Mercedes D.IIIav with the horizontal airpump. Since the engine cowlings will be off I scribed the back of the radiator to look like mesh screen.  More to come.

Now for the propeller.  This image shows a comparison of kit props with the Axial company paddle profile.  Note rotary engine props are shorter than inline engine props.  I chose the extra Roden axial prop from their Fokker D.VII kit.  It and the Eduard version shown here are the correct length for the inline Mercedes six cylinder engine. In simple terms, the Roden Junkers kit prop is too short for an inline engine.

Mobious wrote:

wyoroy, Thanks for the compliment.  That stand has a story all of its own. Sort of a work in progress. I bought the stand from Squadron and changed the nasty paint eating alligator clips out for a couple of the very useful clips from the Tamiya paint stand, added an extension and another swivel. When I rigged the Albatross DIII, It had only one clamp and no extension, but worked. It works a lot better with the additional clamps and swivels. Theres no need to move the project from the "Bigger Rigger Jig" until everythings done. I told myself that I wouldn't post anymore incomplete pics, but this is a pic of the Albatross DIII I rigged and it is finished, so this one doesn't count.   Sorry the pic isn't very good but, I had to stop a get a pic of it with all the hardware hanging off of it. Note: Only one clamp is holding the model.  Mobious

Thanks for getting back on that.  I will just have to put one together then.  Doesn't sound too hard.  I always seem to need more than two hands

Stephen- You are up to your old tricks again I see!  Looks like that nap was a short yet effective one.

Thanks for the side-by-side comparison between the inlines, and the prop info.  I did not know that the rotary engines used shorter props.  Thanks for sharing your knowledge, MUCH appreciated!

Frank,

Please sling me into the mix.

Roden 1/32 Pfalz DIII. I confess to starting this bird some time ago. But, she was put back in the box for a year due to busy life syndrome. The old girl is back in daylight and ready for some loving attention. If thats ok with you guys, put me down for this GB.

All the best,

Von Buckle

G-Boy wrote:

Ok well I'll have to clean my desk of first which might take awhile LOL I was wondering what do you use for rigging on 1/48 planes, and i'm looking for a new airbrush any recomandations?oh and also which company makes good ww1 paints? Iv been using poly scale and for some things the games workshop paints.Thanks for letting me join I'll be Sarting this week on the hanriot.

Hey G-boy, Had to clean my desk off again, kept losing my tweezers. For rigging I use monofilament fishing line. The size of the line is more important than the actual tensile strength. When looking for line, look for the smallest diameter line. It should be printed on the spool. I have used 4lb. and it measures .008" . I did the 1/48 Eduard Sopwith F.1 Camel with 2 lb. test that measured .005". Doesn't sound like much but IMO, it looks a lot better and is easier to work with.

 For airbrushes, I've used both single and double action. Everybody has their own preference. I prefer the  single action. Not as refined as a double action or as much control, but it always works. Even after bouncing it off of the floor a few times. Pick it up, refill the cup, and GTG.

 Paints? Usually mix my own. I prefer acrylics because they're easy to clean up and less toxic. Again, everyone has their own preferences. Don't know if there is a set of colors specifically for WWI aircraft.

 One other thing that is very useful, is the search button here on the Forums. There are tomes of advice and "How To" articles from very talented modelers on just about any modeling related topic.

 HTH,

 Wonder why different size props were used, Torque maybe?

 Mobious

Very good advice Mobious.  I use both a double action (Badger 100LG) and a single action (Badger 200NH) and love them both.  I have found that with practice, you can do just about the same things with the single as the more complicated double.  The double has the advantage of being more flexible "on the fly" in regards to changing volume of paint for some interesting effects. 

I also use acrylics exclusively.  Tamiya and Gunze for airbrushing, Vallejo for brush painting.  Some criticize Tamiya for their limited range of colors, but once you get used to mixing your own colors they really are nice to use.

Mobious wrote:

". . .Wonder why different size props were used, Torque maybe? Mobious

For a wood laminated prop it is an engineering equation that involves the horsepower and required RPMs for the motor it is matched to.

StephenLawson wrote:

Bob von Buckle Its good to see you on this side of town!  The man makes great in scale turnbuckles folks.

 Hello Stephen,

Thanks for the kind words. It's great to be here.

Happy days!

Von Buckle

Frank,

I have decided to go with the Eduard Sopwith Camel Weekend Edition kit, which I will build out of the box, for my first installation.  I have a few other projects that I want to take care of before I start this one, but I do hope to be starting it soon.

Stephen,

Once again it is great seeing your work, and those wonderful references.  I was wondering if you might have a suggestion for touching up those "faded" decals on the DH2 that I built.  I was thinking about white pastels, but I thought that I would ask for your input first.

Scott- Got your build on the list!  I understand about other projects, I have more GB's going right now than you could shake a stick at!

More Power Scotty wrote:

". . .Stephen, Once again it is great seeing your work, and those wonderful references.  I was wondering if you might have a suggestion for touching up those "faded" decals on the DH2 that I built.  I was thinking about white pastels, but I thought that I would ask for your input first.

I would go with a thinned acrylic white on the finest setting in a dual action airbrush. Shoot it til your satisfied.

Stephen, mobious, ludwig, Guy, you fellas are all off to incredible starts! Stephen, you are an absolute machine my friend! Great work everyone! I can see that KOTS-II is easily picking up where KOTS-1 left off.

Bob, simply amazing work on that Pfalz, some of the finest these eyes have ever seen. It's great to have you on board with the rest of us!

Welcome Scott! Great choice with the Camel. Looking forward to seeing your work!

Daywalker wrote:

Scott- Got your build on the list!  I understand about other projects, I have more GB's going right now than you could shake a stick at!

Same here buddy. Right now I've got an Airacobra I'm into, but as soon as it's done I'll be diving in here full force, most likely leading off with the Fokker E.V.

 Finished running cables for the control surfaces. Switched from using fishing line to using stretched sprue. Warning! Should have some pics up later.

 M0

Count me in!  First group build, got roped in after my post in the aircraft section.  I'll be building (at least to start right away) the Eduard dual kit 1/72 Nieuport 23.  Think I"ll use Imperial Russian and Belgian markings to make it different.  Thought I'd throw in a link for the Ni 17 in Czech markings I just finished (not officially part of build as it is 1919 markings).

/forums/1067271/ShowPost.aspx

 Andrew

Looking forward to those pics MO!

satisfaction- to the GB!  I added your kits to page one, feel free to jump right in and post some pics of your progress when you can.

Whatt with man Flu and PC probs, im a bit late wioth an update. Its all progressed quite rapidly really. These Eduard kits are definately the biz. The only prob ive found so far is a small gap at the wing root. This was quite easily sorted by CA'ing a bit of styrene card in and sanding smooth.

I also managed to get a shot of the pit all together. It looks far better in the flesh, mind.

...Guy

 Hey luftwoller, Nice work. I can never get a decent pic of the pit after building. Of course I can't build a decent pit so its no loss. Hope you get better soon.

 Meanwhile back at the ranch, I was attaching the squadron leader penant and was suddenly overwhelmed by gravity. I did manage to catch it in mid flight on its way to the corner of the desk. Broke the landing gear loose and have been fighting with it since. Sometimes feel like an elephant in a china shop.  Lost the airspeed indicator blade.

 Got the camera, tripod, checked the lighting, got a backdrop everything was cleared for photos, took a couple of pics and the little battery indicator thingie majigie started flashing. Time to recharge!

 Did get one I thought was ok. This is Capt. Donald R. MacLaren's Sopwith Camel F.1 F2137, belonging to 46 Sqn stationed in Atiens, France as it appeared in October of 1918. My refernces indicate that Capt. MacLaren was the leading Camel ace claiming a total of 54 victories by war's end.

 I swear there was a poltergiest released when I opened the box! Parts came up missing, reappearing in another location days later. It might of been the cat, secretly building his own Sopwith unbeknownst to me! Anyway will try to get a few more shots after the bats are charged.

 Bats and cats and elephants, but sure as your born, You aint gonna see no unicorn.

 Mobious

Mobious that looks awesome Mate, and after the calamitys. Top marks. I love the worn out look to the paint and the backdrop. Really sets it off. Excellent. One question. Both the alerons are dropped. As i know nothing about WW1 stuff, is this correct?

Heres where i am. Ive started Lozenging, and to be honest, im not really a fan. I cant seem to get the stuff to look like i joins flawlessly. Why didnt they do the joins where a rib tape would be? Oh i dont know. Hopefully by the end it will look ok. My box of 'Smoke and Mirrors' is fairly full LOL.

...Guy

 Hey loftwoller,  The lozenge looks pretty good. I did some on a DVII. My fingers were pruned up when I finished. You're right, I do have them in the wrong position. Haven't been around to many of the wingy things, but I really love the early ones. Fascinated by thier construction and shear bravery of the men who flew them, let alone fought in the skies of WWI.

 I'll get it corrected before I post anymore. Thanks for pointing that out. I did the Albatross the same way.

 Mobious,

Mobious wrote:

G-Boy wrote: Ok well I'll have to clean my desk of first which might take awhile LOL I was wondering what do you use for rigging on 1/48 planes, and i'm looking for a new airbrush any recomandations?oh and also which company makes good ww1 paints? Iv been using poly scale and for some things the games workshop paints.Thanks for letting me join I'll be Sarting this week on the hanriot. Hey G-boy, Had to clean my desk off again, kept losing my tweezers. For rigging I use monofilament fishing line. The size of the line is more important than the actual tensile strength. When looking for line, look for the smallest diameter line. It should be printed on the spool. I have used 4lb. and it measures .008" . I did the 1/48 Eduard Sopwith F.1 Camel with 2 lb. test that measured .005". Doesn't sound like much but IMO, it looks a lot better and is easier to work with.  For airbrushes, I've used both single and double action. Everybody has their own preference. I prefer the  single action. Not as refined as a double action or as much control, but it always works. Even after bouncing it off of the floor a few times. Pick it up, refill the cup, and GTG.  Paints? Usually mix my own. I prefer acrylics because they're easy to clean up and less toxic. Again, everyone has their own preferences. Don't know if there is a set of colors specifically for WWI aircraft.  One other thing that is very useful, is the search button here on the Forums. There are tomes of advice and "How To" articles from very talented modelers on just about any modeling related topic.  HTH,  Wonder why different size props were used, Torque maybe?  Mobious

Here's a suggestion for rigging (if you prefer to use monofilment fishing line); Find a shop in your area that sells flytying stuff. Ask for some "Frog's Hair" leader material in 5X (I think that's around 2lb. test). You can get all the way down to 1lb. test, and maybe even less. Comes on a spool of about 30 yards. I recommend the "flurocarbon" stuff as it's harder. I also saw Lycra thread at Joanne Fabrics the otherday, and I'm thinking about trying it as it looks pretty nice in black.

gary

Mobious, outstanding work! One of the finest F.1's I've ever seen! Man, you guys are really cranking 'em out at a fever's pace!

Guy, from where I'm sitting the lozenge looks fantastic! I wouldn't worry too much about the continuity. Once the rib tapes go on, it will be a lot harder to detect. Oh, and the rest of the build......all I can say is WOW!!! Very nice stuff indeed!