Fw 190 Butcher Bird 2013 (extended to June 2014) Group Build

Greg, Absolutely magnificent work on your cockpit. The decals do indeed look real good as well as your paint and drybrush efforts. You have every reason to be proud of the work you've put into it. I know it's hard sometimes to not be your worst critic. But, dad gummit, pat yourself on the back. Hoist a cold tastey frosty  in celebration of a job well done. 

In between bothering you guys with dumb airbrush questions, been working on the cockpit.

Couple comments:

Not the prettiest cockpit on the block, but it's my cockpit. :)

I was in PE withdrawal, but the decal cockpit ended up better looking than I had expected.

After reading a few comments here about drybrushing with acrylics, I tried it on the resin (or whatever it is, it's a separate part) center column, worked pretty good for this drybrush rookie.

Having fun with this Hasegawa kit. Thanks to all who nudged me towards Hasegawa for my second build here.

Airfix newsletter today announcing  re release of FW 190A  kit #A16001A 1/24 scale with new decal schemes!

Has anyone built this kit before?

I'm working on a 1/24 Hurricane, it's old mould/technology but nice detail & good fit - have heard some of the large Airfix kits are a challenge

interested to hear your views?

Oh Doug how you forget my friend......I'm getting ready to build a D-9!!!

Joe, I forgot, your doing the BMW801, You might also consider some MM Metalizer paint in possibly steel or titamium for the rocker boxes, Aluminum is to bright for my likes.

Doug

Nathan T

Greg- Luckymodel does carry both lines of Gunze. Mr Color is the Laquer, Mr. Hobby is the aqueous("H" comes before the paint number). And yes, keep experimenting with wacha got. Vallejo is by no means a bad paint.

Oops. Thanks for straightening me out on that, Nathan (Mr Color vs Mr Hobby). And the "H" designation. I will no doubt try some regardless that my bench area is starting to look like a Vallejo display.   I have zero willpower to avoid trying hobby related products that are highly recommended. 

Greg- Luckymodel does carry both lines of Gunze. Mr Color is the Laquer, Mr. Hobby is the aqueous("H" comes before the paint number). And yes, keep experimenting with wacha got. Vallejo is by no means a bad paint.

Nathan, it appears that Lucky Model ships Mr Color to the US. Isn't that the lacquer based acrylic from Gunze? Not to be difficult, but I am attempting to avoid solvent based paints for various reasons. That said, since mottling is totally new to me, I am staying open minded and may find that a solvent based paint, like the highly acclaimed Gunze, may indeed be my best choice.

That, and I just spent about 6 months modeling budget on Vallejo paints!

That said, you are not kidding, Lucky Model's shipping fees to the US are very reasonable. After I recover from my current months overspending, will probably try some. Already added some RLM 83 to my Sprue Bros wishlist, for next order. :)

Doug, thanks for the additional info. Yes, all input is helping me, a lot!

I am in awe of your finished engine. You most certainly should be happy, my friend! This is one of those "I'd like to spend a couple hours looking over your shoulders" jobs, for sure.

Everyone, I AM doing lots of experimenting and practicing as advised. Progress, progress. :) Thanks!

OOPS! Sorry, I dont know why some of these duplicated..

Ok Friends... I'm going to call the engine and gun deck complete, I got it mounted and fit to the frame today, and did a little more detail work, tied up some loose ends, and so far.... I'm happy!

Just a heads up- Spruebros. has Gunze acrylic rlm 83 in stock in case anyone here wants to try a bottle before investing in a whole heap of those paints and ordering overseas.

Rigidrider:Hey Doug could you shed some light for me on the process and colors you use to paint the engine block?  It looks like a well worn engine! The silverish highlights on it? Thanks for the help bro. Just trying to turn out something that doesn't look like it just rolled out of the factory.

Hey Greg, No sir I have never used Gunze paint, cant help there, rarely used Vallejo but was great brush on paint. Generally I use only Tamiya and Modelmaster Acrylics, and thin both with Lacquer thinner, It seems to help the paint bite and hold alot better. I use enamels on occasion, but usually only for accenting. With the MM acrylics I have had few problems with dry tip but it does occur, I just keep an old tooth brush handy and put a few brops of solvent on it to clean needle tip. Again you need to experament with your paints, because some only thin with water or their own brand of thinner, Polly S is a good example, it gums up if thinned with any thing but water or polly s thinner. Hope this is helping you, There have been some really good suggestions here and I am going to order some Gunz paint to try out soon. Ive heard alot of good comments about it.

Doug

Greg- Luckymodel.com. Prices are extremely cheap for the paint which makes the shipping cost affordable. It only takes 8-12 days to get to the states and they have most Gunze colors in stock. Thinners for them can be bought at SprueBros which saves on shipping the thinner across the pond. They take paypal which is fast and convenient. No excusess! check them out. No different than ordering anywhere else IMO.

Thanks guys, I have a bit more to do to the engine,Gundeck combo then I'll be ready to attach to the fuselage, I got it cut up the way I want it, Kinda hard to describe right now, but one side will be totally open upper and lower, and the other side will be partially open, I have a real good picture of the covers, and being they open up like gull wings it wont be too tough to do, Thanks again and more soon I hope.

So far, the Eduards kit is living up to my expectations, and I like it! And I'll say again as good as most resin kits are... You (IMO) just cant beat an Aires kit. Just wish they wernt so dad blamed expensive! LOL...

Doug

Mustang Joe, clear on the field strip and tip clean. Per Vallejo's advice, I've been keeping a puddle of AB cleaner and cotton swab handy for an occasional tip swab, which is quite effective but doesn't last as long as I'd wish.

Nathan, thanks for telling me what I didn't want to hear, buddy. I say that because not long ago, Clemens got me all excited about Gunze Aqueous, only to find out that it is unavailable in the US. If you could advise otherwise, that would be great!

Doug, you weren't kidding when you said that engine would look even better as you moved forward. Really well done. And agreed, those Mustang wheel cover motor mounts truly do look right at home.

Very, very nice Doug. that is some great work.

Nice job Doug, like the weathered look to the engine and gunbay. Looking forward to your take on the Eduard kit once you've finished the major assemblies...

Rigidrider

Little more progress ...Well its not a whole lot more, but tonight I start in with the "thread" again... Cant just leave anything well enough alone.

Nice work on that engine Doug!! I cant get over how at home those gear bay covers look on it!!

Little more progress ...Well its not a whole lot more, but tonight I start in with the "thread" again... Cant just leave anything well enough alone.

Greg

Rigidrider

Greg...

Not sure what kind of AB you use, But the key is to experament. When I mottle, I turn up the pressure about 10 psi more then usual,(about 25-30 psi) and thin paint a little bit more then I usually do. Depending on the color and scale of the kit. The color is just because of the pattern and blend you use,  similar (close)colors try to blend when mottled and pressure helps to direct the spray. Too thin and you get splotches same as to heavy and lower pressure.Both work, if thinned correctly. Another trick is to remove the nozzle of the tip. (just the part that guards the needle) Caution ... DONT BUMP YOUR NEEDLE. with tip removed you can almost write like your using a pen. With higher pressure you need to get up close and personal, appx a quarter inch from surface.Work with a plan, at that distance you have to move, technique is a practiced skill. you have to take time to find a methode that works for you.

Doug

Thank you Doug. Specific info, that's what I need.

Couple more questions.. Do you tend to use a specific paint for mottling? Maybe MM? Reason I ask, been testing/experimenting/practicing with Vallejo Model Air with poor results. I just got second airbrush with an adjustable handle that is interchangable between .2 and .4mm nozzle/needle, thinking the .2mm would work great for mottling and the adjustable handle (trigger stop) would help me to control too much paint/blotching. Finding that my dry tip builds up so fast, makes the stop adjustment a moot point. Clemens has suggested that I may not be able to mottle at all with Vallejo and the .2mm nozzle, and further suggested I might be better off with MM. When you get around to trying mottling with Vallejo, will be interested in what you might have to say.

I was actually having good luck in general spraying Vallejo through my Iwata (.35mm), Today I think I'll go try some mottling with it.

Note that I am still working on getting a handle on thinning the Vallejo properly, and that is complicating matters for me.

Thanks for being so patient with me, mates.

Yes!!! I use a specific paint for mottling. I haven't experimented will every brand out there, but I use both Gunze aqueous and their lacquer line and they preform amazing. I would never even consider trying any other brand for such delicate work. Not to say other brands don't work good for that, but I'm just trying to answer your question and give my take.  Good luck.

Vallejo is some good stuff but it does dry quickly on the needle tip alright. Instead of doing a field strip on the AB I usually just take the nose of the AB off and clean the needle and cone up, reinstall and keep going unless it gets really bad.

Joe Rix, great advice. I have done that, but on scraps of corrugated cardboard. Just realised yesterday paint that lays down great on corrugated has little in common with laying down on styrene. I shall heed your advice, sir. On plastic.

John, oh no! Clemens' comment about mottling and Vallejo seems to be holding true so far. Except I am very stubborn, will continue trying, maybe. :)

I'd love to have a room like that! For now the spare bedroom is fine with me because I have somewhere besides a card table to build. Been there and done that with a card table because those are usually "catch alls", unstable and therefore move too much when bumped into and just not big enough. The desk I have now is more than satisfactory and a LONG way from what I started with(which was only slightly bigger than a card table!!).

mustang1989

My wife and son would be constantly letting me have it. Maybe one of these days I'll have a "man hut/ outside room" when I get a house on  a lot big enough to build one!! Boy that would be the friggin bomb!!!

John

My wife and son would be constantly letting me have it. Maybe one of these days I'll have a "man hut/ outside room" when I get a house on  a lot big enough to build one!! Boy that would be the friggin bomb!!!

mustang1989

I used to use enamels but acrylics enable me to operate in the house in the A/C and on 80 degree mornings at 5 am that counts for alot!

John

I used to use enamels but acrylics enable me to operate in the house in the A/C and on 80 degree mornings at 5 am that counts for alot!

Greg

John, I hear ya re something working great once, then next time not. Very frustrating. Seems when this happen to me with an airbrush, it needs a good cleaning.

Dry tip seems to be a known issue with Vallejo, from what I read. I shouldn't comment on that, I suppose, as I have very little experience with the brand and mostly I am liking it so far.

Curious what you thinned the Vallejo with when you were experimenting with it? Were you spraying Model Color or Model Air?

 I'm sorry did I say I was using Vallejo when I had the mottling problems?  I was using enamels when I got bit by the splatter demons!  Sorry for the confusion.

I'm pretty sure it didn't need a cleaning,  I go to great lengths to make sure it's clean, it's more like I don't know what I'm doing!  just not thinned enough to prevent splatering

I like my enamels,  I like the water wash upof acrylics  but it's hard to put aside 40 years of using enamels only.

John