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Your welcome.
I didin't think much would be useful, but it is the same class.
mach71 Your welcome. I didin't think much would be useful, but it is the same class.
I'd love the see any photos you might have taken, they sound cool.
Nick: She looks sharp, I'd be tempted to run her around a swimming pool...
TB: Now that sounds interesting!!
"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen
Nick, I love seeing the 109 come together. You are moving along fast.
Thanks about the planking. I made a breakthrough tonight; I will post shortly.
By golly, I think I've got it!
This is what I was looking for. I was able to create a cast of gray whilst maintaining the wood detail below it.
And I did it with this...
This so-called ink lays down a translucent layer. It was so easy to put down. I had this in my stash from another project, I thought I'd give it a try.
That is looking sweet
Steve
Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.
http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/
Nick, fantastic job on the PT
Bakster Bakster I have doubts about this, mainly because the decking seems to have a coating that is non-porous. My fear is that it will be like the stain, it won't stick. Spitballing. I have a few things I can try. Worst case, I leave it as is and move on.
Bakster
I have doubts about this, mainly because the decking seems to have a coating that is non-porous. My fear is that it will be like the stain, it won't stick.
Spitballing.
I have a few things I can try. Worst case, I leave it as is and move on.
Steve,
I have the BlueRidgeModels wood deck for the Wisconsin too. Thank you for the staining tests. When we had the "Warpage" discussion I decided to send a note to BRM about suggested stains to use. Hope to hear back soon.
I have a big house , over 220 years old, so I keep various oil-based paints and stains on hand. If I don't hear back from BRM this week I'll break out my BRM 1991 BB64 wood deck and try a few of my stains too.
Got a few Pictures coming your way via PM.
Nino
Edit: Re: your Ink test: Very nice color withpout hidding the details. That'll work!
(I missed your post on the "Ink test" while I was getting some Pics together for you.)
Nick..PT looking good.
Bakster.. I like that a lot. Think I'd leave it alone now. Good job
That ink does look good. Let it set for a day or two, then lightly sand because the USN would have those decks honed and I miss the yellow.
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
Bakster: That looks good! I too think you've got it!!!
Just for fun I did find this: a board taken from the teak decking of the USS North Carolina in 1999 for the refubishment that I bought. Not sure it would be any help at all- considering it's from a fifty year old deck tramped across by millions of tourists...
I didn't go. When we were landing I saw that she was under a lot of white tarps. I figured they were working on her
When Bakster said he had enough reference photos I decided to wait for another time.
Gam, what an awesome souvenir.
Mach, you do get around. I was thinking about you yesterday when I flew back to Dallas for my quarterly check and watched the pilots getting ready.
modelcrazy Gam, what an awesome souvenir. Mach, you do get around. I was thinking about you yesterday when I flew back to Dallas for my quarterly check and watched the pilots getting ready.
Yah, it's part of the job. Boise to Dallas? You might have been on my airline! Was there an Eskimo on the tail?
Thanks Gam, GM, GH, MC, and Nino.
GM: I will test sanding a portion of it to see what happens. I am not sure how that is gonna look, but it doesn't hurt to test it and see.
Nino sent this image to me showing how the deck looks today. There is very little new wood showing through, if any.
The new wood may not be showing through but I think you nailed the seams with your process. I'll have to give that a try, you may have come up with a new technique
Mach, no I take Southwest, I like their free checked bag policy. Also I would rather land at Love Field than DFW.
I like AK better than the big names by far but they only have Bombardier 400's in Boise, at least that's all I've ever seen. Cool plane but loud and slow, and I have to go through Portland, Seattle or Spokane first.
American has the only nostop to Dallas once a day, but I don't like American.
Bakster: Yeah, kinda hard to tell from a modern deck. Looking forward to the sanding, I wanna see how this is going to turn out.
Mach71: Awww shucks, somehow everything I go on vacation somewhere stuff I what to see is down for maintenance.
modelcrazy The new wood may not be showing through but I think you nailed the seams with your process. I'll have to give that a try, you may have come up with a new technique
One thing I'd like to add. I applied the liquid fairly heavy by placing a drop with a paintbrush, then spreading it around. I followed up with a cotton swab to remove any excess. I'd think that if a person wants to get more yellow to show, you could try dry brushing this stuff on, or apply the ink in select areas. With a little experimenting, a person could tweak the process.
That ink looks like its the answer, looks real nice.
As does PT-109!
GameraBakster: Yeah, kinda hard to tell from a modern deck. Looking forward to the sanding, I wanna see how this is going to turn out.
True. In my case though, the ship I am building is the modern version, not the WW2 version. This is why I am leaning towards the deck as shown in Ninos image. Most of the images I have found look like that. And actualy, my Ink test is letting through more yellow than what the images are showing. In Ninos image the tones are pretty much just shades of gray.
I don't know enough about this, but to GMs point, a ships deck that is still in service might be handled differently than one docked for tourists. Heck, in its current state, they may have prettied it up even. Who knows, I certainly don't. My goal in all this was to find a way to knock down that brand new wood look. The decking as it is supplied isn't bad, but it needs help. With using the Ink I am content, but for the sake of others that would like to know if more yellow can come through, I will certainly try sanding it. Maybe I am wrong, but I think the real answer to doing this will be in how it's applied at the get go.
It will be an interesting experiment! I will try a test sanding of it tonight.
mach71 That ink looks like its the answer, looks real nice. As does PT-109!
Yeah Crown;
The "Fitz" and many of her sisters. It's a company that is named-LakeFreighterMinis . The color is good and the parts fit really well. I will get a photo going as soon as I figure my new camera out and get the pics to a host.
Nice I did check the site out . Beautiful presentation of those ships . I will get one eventually .
again many thanks for your comments working on the crew ,the boat some small stuff to do.
Nick.
Bakster I will try a test sanding of it tonight.
What I ended up with is a gray splotch, detail was lost. For those interested, maybe a dry brushing approach would work, or to selectively apply the ink in areas that you want it. For me, I am moving on with what I came up with.
Last night I started removing sections that are scribed for removal. It is a fun process... it is something a little different from the norm. Like MC said, they pop out pretty easily. Here and there I did help things a little with a sharp knife. The one thing I wish that they'd do is make the cuts clear through the plastic carrier. That is not the case. Doing this would make it an easy process to dry fit the sections.
What do you guys do on this? How do you test fit the pieces without the deck getting stuck down?
Go to YouTube. There are several videos of people putting on the "wood decks" on the ships. That's where I learned, by watching others do it.
Kentucky Colonel Go to YouTube. There are several videos of people putting on the "wood decks" on the ships. That's where I learned, by watching others do it.
modelcrazy I agree GM, especially with some PE you can make a 1/700 look good. I just still really like 350 but have a ton of 700 as well. You're right about the space though.
I agree GM, especially with some PE you can make a 1/700 look good. I just still really like 350 but have a ton of 700 as well. You're right about the space though.
Is this one of your builds? If so sir that is absolutely beautiful!! Everything looks amazing. Very well done sir.
Jeff
On The Bench: Coming Soon
Hello everyone,
Steve...I am sorry on the delay of starting my build. I am currently involved in a very large project at work, and it keeps me away from home for weeks at a time. I will get started as soon as I get more home time.
Gentlemen...everyone's work thus far looks amazing! A lot of great looking builds going on in this GB. I am sorry for being absent, and not being involved thus far.
Drifter, yes it's mine. Thank you.
Don't worry about when you start, you have all the time in the world. It's good to have you along for now.
Bakster, I've always just put it on. You need to make sure the deck is absolutely clean, no dust, no finger oils. I usually do this with alcohol and a cotton swab. You my want to spray some acrylic gloss in the deck after to help the adhesive adhere but again, make sure the deck is clean before applying the veneer. You'll have one shot at it. If you mess up it can be lifted and reapplied but you run the risk of tearing the wood and/or making the glue less tacky. Use a turret barbet or some other large object to yes as a reference and aline it. If an edge gets stuck down while your doing this don't worry, use an Xacto blade or something to lift it back up. This is why some use a mist of water first . Once down, use a wood dowel or some such to press the veneer down, especially around the deck details.
BTW, I forgot to mention, remove all the little details on the sheet before removing the deck. This will helpvline it up and keep you from frustration when the deck is applied.
Someone may have a better way but that what I've learned through the years.
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