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Auto racing GB March 2007-2008

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  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Central Texas
Posted by NucMedTech on Thursday, October 25, 2007 12:38 PM
BTP- Nice work so far and welcome to the GB.

Most barriers to your successes are man made. And most often you are the man who made them. -Frank Tyger

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Bothell, WA
Posted by btp2k2 on Thursday, October 25, 2007 4:58 PM

Thanks!

Here are some progress for my Ferrari F1-2000

 

Paul I Like Tomcats!
  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Bothell, WA
Posted by btp2k2 on Monday, November 5, 2007 2:49 PM

I suffered a major setback on my Lancia Stratos today.....

Last week I sprayed a basecoat of gloss white on the body and today I was ready to top it with the green.

Well...the green did not react well with the white and pulled up the paint.

Anyone know a good method to strip paint?

Paul I Like Tomcats!
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Nashville, TN area
Posted by bobbaily on Monday, November 5, 2007 7:47 PM

Castrol Super Clean (automotive degreaser) is my paint stripper of choice.  Let the body soak in it overnight and then use a toothbrush to remove the paint.  Also, wear rubber/latex gloves-it will remove all the moisture from your skin.

If that doesn't work, try Easy Off oven cleaner-put the body in a large zip lock bag, spray the Easy Off onto the body and seal.  Let sit overnight and then use a toothbrush or such to remove the paint... and wear gloves.

Bob

 

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Paarl, South Africa
Posted by SeaBee on Friday, November 9, 2007 11:31 PM

Haven't built as much as I hoped for a variety of reasons. The 020 is starting to come along. Doing the white in decals... I was not optimistic, but it is coming out better than I anticipated. The white does end up as white and not showing the colour underneath, as I feared.

Lot of the work has been done. Nosecone & fron wing assembled and white-decalled. Cockpit subassembly (excl steering wheel and instr panel) done, painted, inserted and the two halves joined for painting. Rear body cowl and rear wing assemled and painted along with the other two parts, after which I did some of the white decals, attached the nose after the front suspension was done. So still a lot to do, but getting there...

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Bothell, WA
Posted by btp2k2 on Sunday, November 11, 2007 1:12 PM
 bobbaily wrote:

Castrol Super Clean (automotive degreaser) is my paint stripper of choice.  Let the body soak in it overnight and then use a toothbrush to remove the paint.  Also, wear rubber/latex gloves-it will remove all the moisture from your skin.

If that doesn't work, try Easy Off oven cleaner-put the body in a large zip lock bag, spray the Easy Off onto the body and seal.  Let sit overnight and then use a toothbrush or such to remove the paint... and wear gloves.

 

Cool...I'll try that!

 

I know first hand about the nasty-ness of SuperClean...I used to wrench on cars and had many cracked fingers as a result of that stuff

Paul I Like Tomcats!
  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: Bothell, WA
Posted by btp2k2 on Monday, November 19, 2007 12:28 PM
This just doesn't seem to be my build.....first the paint issues on the Stratos....now decal issues with the F1-2000. I started decaling the Ferrari today, starting with the big white decal on the cowl. The decal actually stuck to the paper, could not get it off to save my life. In all my time modeling, I have never seen a decal act like that before. Second decal, some sponsor logos on the nose.....it seemed to go on ok, applied some MicroSol on it and it just shrivled up like a prune.
Paul I Like Tomcats!
  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Paarl, South Africa
Posted by SeaBee on Tuesday, November 20, 2007 1:45 PM

Just don't touch it! Microsol reacts that way with soft decals and then it smooths out incredibly smooth over the most wicked curves! It sort-of melts it and that then helps it adhere to the curves.

Never heard of a decal not wanting to come off, esp not Tamiya decals. Just try warmer water and maybe leaving it in a bit longer. Sorry, maybe that's what you did, I don't know of anything else that will help it loosen.

Just don't loose hope, we all get those patches. You won't beat my recent mis-reading of Tameo instructions to find I've reversed therear suspension! Whistling [:-^] At least the one thing that sort-of made me feel better, was hearing from a way more experienced 1:43 modeler on the F1 forums that he did exactly the same! Maybe we can blame the instructions as misleading... I still don't know how that happened!

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Keizer, Oregon
Posted by Model Grandpa on Wednesday, November 21, 2007 10:33 PM

Hello all.  Been awhile since I've posted here.  I got sick and was diagnosed with Lymphoma.  I am feeling a little better between chemo treatments now and plan to set an hour or so a day aside to build.  Still plan to get the Giant Killer Z done before the end date, it is 3rd on my list of kits to build and finish.  Hopefully I'll have some progress to show soon.  Sorry I haven't been around much.

Regards, Dan Building Scale Models At The Speed Of Dark
  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Paarl, South Africa
Posted by SeaBee on Thursday, November 22, 2007 11:54 PM
And so you have your own situation put into perspective... here I am complaining about sinus and a bit of wetness on the lung hampering my cycling preparation. And still not building enough! Sorry to hear about your diagnosis and best of luck with the treatment.
  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Central Texas
Posted by NucMedTech on Monday, December 3, 2007 6:43 PM
Model Grandpa-Sorry to hear about your diagnosis. It's good news that your handeling the chemo better. Working in nuclear med. I see alot of patients going through the same battle and it seems that most of them that keep a chin up and find something to keep them motivated get through the process better. You already seem to headed in the right direction, so keep building when your able and if not just let us know how you're doing and we'll keep you in our thoughts the other times. And don't forget to post some pics.Cowboy [C):-)] 

Most barriers to your successes are man made. And most often you are the man who made them. -Frank Tyger

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Nashville, TN area
Posted by bobbaily on Tuesday, December 4, 2007 6:06 AM
Dan-sorry to hear of your illness.  Will be praying for your recovery.

Bob

 

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Paarl, South Africa
Posted by SeaBee on Thursday, December 6, 2007 2:04 PM

Tyrrell 020 is done. Just had to do it, such a nice and different livery and nobody seems to have built it. And it took me back to the days gone by by just having fun and building it curbside! Yeah, still did the engine and stained the exhausts, part of the fun! Big Smile [:D]

Body colour came out well for me - look black from a distance, up close not. Same with the wheels. Unfortunately the close-up pics came out bad, so we'll have to deal with these. Even the wheel pic does not bring out it's colour nicely. Wheels done with MM Burnt metal with smoke acrylic over it. Scheme was done with the prescribed TS42 (light gunmetal) with smoke (TS rattlecan, can't remember number) applied over it.

Like I said, it was just a fun build, but any critic is wellcome. 

Diag view:

Side view:

Wheel and nose:

 

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Nashville, TN area
Posted by bobbaily on Thursday, December 6, 2007 2:38 PM

Very nice build SeaBee.  The Tamiya F1 kits with large amounts of decals have always intimidated me.  That and I can't seem to paint acrylic gloss black to save my life....which leads me to an update & question. 

The Willys has been stripped of black and repainted metallic blue with a clear blue & Future topcoat. Nowhere near the quality of paint jobs in this group, but I am going to live with it.  Then decals were applied.  Some silvering, but hopeful that another coat of Future will cure that issue.  However, I had one small decal that 'stuck' to the point that I was afraid of trying to move it (even after putting additional water on it) in fear of tearing it.  Therefore, one of the smaller decals is less that straight....that I can live with...I think.  I will post some pics after the final coat of Future...maybe this weekend.  My question is-Is there anything I can add to the water to make moving the decals a bit less risky? 

 

Bob

 

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Nashville, TN area
Posted by bobbaily on Friday, December 7, 2007 5:54 AM
GRRRRRR.....Well, I applied some Future to the decaled areas last night-helped but the silvering is still noticable.  For some reason, the Solveset didn't 'melt' the decals like it normally does...even with multiple coats.  Wonder if it is subject to aging?  The bottle is probably three or four years old...or the kit decals were unusally thick...which they are...now I'm fighting the urge to strip it again and order a set from Slixx....must fight the urge....

Bob

 

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Nashville, TN area
Posted by bobbaily on Tuesday, December 11, 2007 7:08 PM

Pictures as promised:

First off, the shade is a bit darker-the flash lightened it up a tad.  Also, the decal film isn't as noticable in the pictures.  And there is some 'uneven' Future that doesn't show.  That's the result of brushing the Future on to try to 'hide' the excess decal film.  I could probably polish that down with some toothpaste.  I really should have bought some new Solveset and tried that before applying the Future....lesson learned. Banged Head [banghead]

Not sure what I'm going to do.  Option one is to accept things as they are and continue building.  Option two is to strip the paint,repaint black,  get some new Solveset and use the remaining kit decals with the same thick film.  Option three is to strip the paint, repaint metallic blue, get some new Solveset and order a set of Slixx decals, which usually are much thinner. 

Bob

 

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Paarl, South Africa
Posted by SeaBee on Wednesday, December 12, 2007 12:05 AM
Bob, first off - sorry, I'm at work (and obviously in the December spirit!) and thus can't see your picture as our scanning at times stops posted pics. So I'll be purely commenting on what you've written untill I can see the pics from home tonight.

Silvering won't be "cured" by adding a clear layer over it, since it is achieved by trapping tiny air bubbles beneath the clear parts of the decals. Thick decals, Which will as such not be as susceptable to decal solvents and also don't "bend" as easy, may very well cause it. My best advice will be to allways apply it to as smooth a surface as possible. (Since you've used gloss with Future over it, that one goes out the window!) I allways use microsol on all decals and have since not had any problems with silvering. Don't know how that compares to the one you're using, but it's obtainable over here and works for me! Also, I've only airbrushed Future once and it came out somewhat of a mess, then got the advise to rather rbush it on and that's worked good for me! It tends to smooth out quite nicely. And as you say, add some toothpaste or Tamiya rubbing compound to the mix and you should get a very nice finish.

As for the gloss black... Maybe you should try using Tamiya's gloss black from their rattle-cans. I know the purists will shoot me for this! I tend to use their stuff quite a lot and it works very well for me. Build it up gradually with a couple of thin layers (over a base coat) and then a wettish layer. Some people tend to decant it and then use it with and airbrush - it's more economical and you've got more control, so that choice is there as well. I think trying to achieve a gloss finish (esp black!) with acrylics on a largish surface is downright near impossible.

I hate those kind of decisions... Good luck!
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Nashville, TN area
Posted by bobbaily on Wednesday, December 12, 2007 8:23 AM
Thanks for the info & input SeaBee.  Not sure which direction I'm going to take, but I'm definatly going to repaint.  I was happy with the metallic blue until the decaling went bad.  And it really wasn't 'silvering' so much as thick film.  Again, Solveset usually melts anything, so a new bottle is in order.  But it goes into the Castrol's SuperClean this evening.....

Bob

 

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Nashville, TN area
Posted by bobbaily on Thursday, December 13, 2007 6:10 AM
The Willys is soaking in a Castrol SuperClean bath at the moment.  I'll decide between metallic blue or black after I get it primed.  Will be purchasing some new Solveset anyway....and maybe some Slixx decals. 

Bob

 

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Paarl, South Africa
Posted by SeaBee on Saturday, December 15, 2007 9:41 PM

Good luck, Bob!

I have just started on a Tameo Lotus 80. Thusfar just cleaned up and sanded the body, wings and some other parts needing the body colour. Yeah, the thing went like a duck irl, but it's a nice-looking car, though! Cool [8D]

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Nashville, TN area
Posted by bobbaily on Sunday, December 16, 2007 5:09 AM

Thanks SeaBee.  The Willy's has been stripped, re-primed and Slixx decals ordered.

Looking forward to seeing the Lotus.  Mr. Chapman designed some great (and some unusual) cars during his day.

Bob

 

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Paarl, South Africa
Posted by SeaBee on Monday, December 17, 2007 11:50 PM
He sure knew how to make a good-looking car! Pics still on camera, but will d/l it during the week. The body and wings are built up, mirrors and all other detail added. So the body and the couple of other parts that need the green is primed. Hope to get around to the green shortly - and hopefully my a/b is sorted with some new parts I ordered. Otherwise I'll have to get a TS spray can (while I have a good colour from Hiroboy to be used with a/b) and I think that will drown a 43rd car a bit. But I suspect the a/b will be fine. Hold thumbs!
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Nashville, TN area
Posted by bobbaily on Tuesday, December 18, 2007 6:04 AM

Looking forward to pics SeaBee. 

I picked up a rattle can of Testor's Gloss Black-that was a mistake.  For whatever reason, the paint was 'uncontrollable', spray volume wise and the Willy's is back in the Castrol's SC bath.  Might stop by the LHS and try Tamiya rattle can-your thoughts?

Bob

 

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Paarl, South Africa
Posted by SeaBee on Wednesday, December 19, 2007 12:11 AM

Darn, that's not good!

The TS paints are the only rattlecans I use. I almost allways give it a basecoat, also Tamiya (and allways white for the "colours" - for a black the grey will do fine.) I used the gloss black on a R390 a while ago and it worked just fine.

The most important things are to heat the can in water first, it helps with the diluting of the paint, making the flow and mix better. Then obviously you need to shake it a bit - I prefer to "swirl" it rather than shake it. Then build up with a couple of mist layers, about 15 mins apart, plus a thicker wet layer. And I usually still add some clear to that as well. Overall, very easy to work with and you get some very consistent flow. Just remember to have a thoroughly clean part to work on! When I've had issues, it was mostly due to dirty/contaminated surface.

If you have an airbrush and want to get really good matching paint for some other projects, also try Hiroboy's range of Zero paints. He mixes it to create some good matching shades for esp difficult to find/match shades. Very usefull for race cars with different tinges of the same colours. But you'll have to wait a bit for that, should you want some. For the black, I'd be more than happy to advise the TS paints!

Good luck with the black, let me know how it goes.

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Nashville, TN area
Posted by bobbaily on Wednesday, December 19, 2007 6:02 AM
Thanks SeaBee-the LHS didn't have Gloss Black in Tamiya spray, so I picked up a can of the Testor's equivlant.  Tonight I prime, tomorrow sand and maybe start painting on Saturday. And thanks for the advice.  I was on the Tamiya site and they also suggested 'stirring' the can rather than shaking due to the new type propellants used.  I would have never thought about that....

Bob

 

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Paarl, South Africa
Posted by SeaBee on Tuesday, January 1, 2008 11:43 PM

First off - best wishes for 2008 to all you guys! Hope there's lots of completed models, little lost parts and paint-stripping ahead! Wink [;)]

The Lotus 80 is coming along. Painted and decalled the body, just starting on the interior. Just had one mishap on a decal that stuck in a not-so-straight position... It's what happens when it shifts ever-so-slightly when you add the micro sol and then you quickly have to attend to your daughter who could not get past the exercise ball she moved into her own way, then, a minute later (max!) when you turn around and want to move the decal, it's allready stuck! Blush [:I]

Also started on a Lotus 107B I picked up for a bargain at my LHS. It will be an interesting exercise in decalling! And the MP4/2 for which I don't ever seem to have time, found some attention and I did the rear wing. I think that counts as a model on it's own! Now onto the rear suspension and some decalling. Think the Lotus build is helping that one along, since I now am anyways working with WM and PE parts, so "while I'm busy" I just do some stuff on the MP4/2 as well. That as well as the intimidation factor that's gone out the window, because whilst working on a 43rd kit, the 20th just seems so much easier! (At least you can see everything and can hold it in your finger, you don't need a tweaser to hold eg. a steering wheel whilst painting it!

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Paarl, South Africa
Posted by SeaBee on Tuesday, January 8, 2008 11:50 PM

I am applying decals to the MP4/2. This includes some aftermarket TABU decals for the schmoookiiin' stuff. However, I was somewhat disappointed in this. The decals were made brilliantly, they apply like a dream, except for it being split to try and circumvent legal issues, thus causing you to have to allign the boro with the first part every time. But what bother me was that the sizing seems somewhat off. I have been rather carefull when painting to refer to pics and drawings to try to get the red lines right. Yet the sidepod decals run into the red! And the rear of the rear wing does not cover the whole of the width... Likewise the decals next to the driver seems a bit big on initial application. There's no way to correct it, so I'll just have to grin and bear with it.

Anybody else run across this before? Or is it just my bad luck - or was my markings off? Will post pics shortly...  

  • Member since
    March 2005
Posted by philo426 on Thursday, January 24, 2008 12:11 AM
How about a Williams Honda(1/20 Tamiya)?
  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Paarl, South Africa
Posted by SeaBee on Monday, January 28, 2008 10:31 AM

Lovely! Any interesting problems with the FW11? Mine still to be built...

The Lotus 80 is nearing completion. Just (haha, yeah right... "just" ) the suspension to go> Plus the wheels, obviously. The Lotus 107B's engine is nearing completion. Remember me wondering whether I'll succumb to decalling rather than going for the hectic masking and painting option on this scheme? Well, as it turns out, I had no option. Some of the sponsorship logo's are on the coloured decals and not supplied seperately - so you have to decal! Thusfar the decals (touch wood) are really impressive. The go down superbly, fit well, no worries. I am doing them very very slowly so that I don't accidently move one whilst busy with another. Inbetween the engine grew, the 80 got some attention... no rush!

  • Member since
    March 2005
Posted by philo426 on Monday, January 28, 2008 1:50 PM
No major problems!Just remember to cut the "Canon"decals so that you can lift the rear deck to view the engine and transaxle.
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