Fleet Air Arm Group Build

 Now that.s a cool pic Ritchie! I can go nuts with that. Thanks for the pics and the comments.

Lol yes Aaron, R-2800's definately have two wires per cylinder.

The Goose is really looking great! Will be getting back to the bench shortly. My weekend has officially started.Having a tot! Received my shipment of engines today from E&T for my Corsair and a few other future projects. I love the selection of engines from Engines & Things, however, the quality of castings is quite poor compared to the Quickboost engine I have that will go on my -1 Corsair.

Cheers, Richie

Got it covered Frank! Here ya go Dave. Have a tot!

I was shocked at the colors as well. I figured by Dec 7 everything had gone that blue or green shade. I guess this was not the case as priority must have been given to Combat AC. This was used as a general Utility craft and kept very clean as a VIP transport. With the dimensions of a Dehaviland Mosquito it really has a large comfortable cabin and good flight characteristics. So good that they are still used in Alaska and the Carrabean as passenger planes. Not bad for a 1937 AC.

 I know no touching until good and dry. Thanks Bondo for the crew comment. I always loved those Monogram Diaramas by Shepard Payne. They are a lot of work to modify and get to look right but I try.

Thanks guys, it's been a lot of fun and I'm looking forward to more.

Frank, thanks for the serving girl but just so you know I prefer brunettes

Aaron, the Gruman is looking good, those prewar colours sure are bright but I guess if the only thing they were worried about was getting stranded or lost then it makes sense.

Bondoman, you forgot to mention the huge ejection pin marks that you usually find in either the gut or the butt of most 1/72 scale figures.  Sure wish someone would make some decent 1/72 scale pilot figures.

Woohoo!  Congrats on 3000 Dave.

 Thanks guys. lewbud  I told you I would try anything. So far I am getting the leave it alone until it drys dummy ! I mean you and Bondo are more tactful of course but I feel you are on the mark there. I thought the primer would act as an anchor as you described but I think the key is patience. Well I have all the colors as good as they are gonna get. So I am letting it be. Put it on a top shelf out of sight to dry in peace. Very hard the end is in sight but I must concede. How did Dirty Harry put it?

" A man has got to know his limitations"

 I have the Ventura to piddle with now that the parts are here. I'll be ok. Heavy sigh.

 Did you like the crew Nam? Most of the time I don't get a good pic of them when they get behind the glass. 

 Hmmm what to do? dry dry dry...... ohmmmmmm!

Frank,

 Congrats on post # 5000 !!! I might get to #100 one of these days

 Frank C

sfcmac wrote:

Well I'll be horn swaggled! CONGRATS!!!!!!  DAVE!!!!!!!  3000!!!  WOW!!!!!   Amazing stuff!  What's this? I thought I heard Nam say he was feeling guilty about drinking?  Say it isn't so....... told ye to watch out for them feminine types!!! another pic just cuz!

Don't look now....but there are people sitting in your airplane! 

Aaron,

Next time you decide to play with glossy paints you might try the following tricks, first wipe everything down with rubbing alcohol.  Hold the can about 18-24 inches from the model and mist on a coat then wait about 15 min.  Repeat (waiting 15 min between coats) until the surface is covered, the surface will be dull and flat.  The reason for this is it gives the paint teeth and will adhere better. After the surface is covered, hit it with a wet coat then allow it to dry THOROUGHLY.  Depending on the rattle can used this can be anywhere from 5-14 days.  Tamiya paints can be handled several hours after painting but for any masking I'd wait 2-3 days, if you're gonna buff it out for a car finish I'd give it 5-7 days.  If you're using enamels such as Testors I'd give it 3-5 days before masking  and a minimum of 2 weeks if you're gonna buff it (is better to wait until you can't smell the paint at all, but I'm not that patient-but I build that slow).  Now these times are for gloss paints, the times for flat paints whether Tamiya or enamel are way faster.  Hope this helps.

Dave--Congrats on 3K

Congrats on the 3,000 Posts Dave .

Regards,  Rick

 Well I'll be horn swaggled! CONGRATS!!!!!!  DAVE!!!!!!!  3000!!!  WOW!!!!!

  Amazing stuff!  What's this? I thought I heard Nam say he was feeling guilty about drinking?

 Say it isn't so....... told ye to watch out for them feminine types!!!

another pic just cuz!

WOOHOO!!!!!

Party at Dave's to celebrate 3K posts!!

razordws wrote:

Sounds like you guys need an excuse for an extra tot or two.  Well, check my post count and have at 'ere.

Bingo Swords! YAY!

Great posts from you as long as I've been here!

sfcmac wrote:

Oh yeah I'll have ones with ye! Sometimes I thinks it drys too fast. Most of the time it can be touched in 10 minutes or so. A pain to paint on as it gets a skin real quick. If you use it thick as a filler the top will look dry but it will seal itself and bet wet inside so gotta play careful. Strong smelling too. I spilled that jar a while back and still think I'm dizzy from it.  Much better to have a tot now!

Still early, but I feel guilty drinkin' on this thread. Perhaps this w/e I shall invite you for a tot on the A/C thread!

The Mr. S did brush on well and smelled great! I does seem to set-up fast but I'm giving it overnight. Filled the little gaps right up! Happy I bought it! 

Yeah....1st time w/ Mr. S......painted right in and seems to set up quickly......I didn't see the gaps until I primed for painting. But they have to go.

I'm goofing with the small side details right now....and just may have a tot!

 Drying time?

Well in

 SFC time that's ten minutes.

In Bondoman time, about 5 days.

 I am trying to take his advice and leave mine be.  Breaking out in little beads of sweat though.

 Glad to hear your wall be hurdled! I used that Mr Sufacer 1200 in the can to prime mine.  Gets rid of the orange skin look of some of these low pressure molded wonders I been battling. Saves lots of sanding and details.

 I can't wait to see you get the Dauntless together and painted up. Should be like a good meal after eating fast food for a week.

Arrggghhhhhhh! Thanks the Sea Gods fer the Mr. Surfacer!

Found a few wing lap gaps....tiny....but, no go. MS 1000 seems to have taken them down....awaiting the dry time.

Painting the one piece engine cowl.....dragged a non-weighted set of tires from an AM kit because the Mono tires are......fill in the blank.

Eh....it's all good.............way ahead of schedule.......we'll get 'er done! 

 Watch ye out Nam The Bondo is fixin to give ye a boost with a blunderbus on ye behind!

 I already filled the bad spots. Used a dot brush and filled them in just like with body filler. Er Bondo. Can't tell it e'r happened now. But you know me post the good with the bad.  I been piddling with the Ventura between drying times. Funny thing about paint wait more than 12 hours ye better wait a week before painting more or it may crack or  whatever bad things paint do.  But your method does address that issue.

 I am wondering what high adventures our Nam be battlin through? Been tryin to leave him be. He is on a roll!

The Nam be hittin' a wall.....climbing it now

Don't you hate that? It will be fine, ye scurvy Rat!! It's getting closer ta' Rum time, an' ye'll 'ave a story ta ell fer shure.

But I do have a piece of advice, which explains why I build soooooooo sloooooooowly. Yeah, right.

I like to paint two or three models at a time which makes me keep'me bleedin' paws off'n um fer a cuppla weeks inbetween coats.

To wit, I'll be trottin' out the Lodestar here shortly, from a build that supposedly ended in May!

 Thanks all. Nam it wasn't that the resin engines were'nt up to snuff, just couldn't tell any difference from the extra plastic ones. I mean if your going to include pricey parts I figure they should pay dividends for the extra effort needed to work them. One of my gripes is a lot of these limited run kits include metal and resin parts when there is no detail advantage. I guess I am not in the business though.

 The gloss paints are teaching me some hard learned lessons. I just pulled a Frank and stripped and repainted my tail for the third time to get it right. Remember me teasing you about that prop? Pay back has come.

Another thing is the paint that will not wash off my hands comes right off the primer with the masking tape. Very odd. Have to fix the blue now.  

 Any ways figured I'd give you a last look at the inside as soon it will be hard to see.  This was  one colorful bright sea plane.  It's service cut short at Pearl Harbor with so many others.

 Any hints suggestions or corrections just holler them out. You all are the pro's I just paint my fingers and superglue my rear to the chair.

Aaron! The engines are fine! Mighilt surprised to hear that the resin ones weren't up to snuff. Do you have a pic?

also........stay off the baseball field, my friend!

 Rick and Richie, and Bondo, thanks for the answers. I have like zero time playing with glossy paints and the yellow winged colorful neutrality colors are a first for me as well. Gosh haven't even thought about the weathering. Should be interesting. Have to do some testing.

 The engines are supposed to be Pratt & Whitney 450 HP Wasp. 9 cylinders. Seems like that rings a bell. Weren't those in the Sherman tanks?  The only thing I really can't replicate well is the casing where the rodes and wires go straight in. SOrta like tooth picks in an orange. The rim I added should actually be behind the wires and rods but the resin engines aren't built that way.  Oh well. Get as close as I can.

 I must be obcessing about the engine details because I finally received the R-2800 -31 foor the Ventura. Madw by a company called Engines and things and I cannot believe the amount of different versions and HP ratings for the R-2800 series. 2 wires for these, right Ritchie?

 Here is a pic. Got them on sale for $6 ea. Thought you might want to see what they look like since these engines powered so many of the topics here.

 The small slip of paper actually list the Aircraft powered by the engine version. So that is kinda neat and helpful. They have a bunch of versions. I guess depends on how neurotic I feel.

Aaron, the engines look great.  The upper yellow wings were gloss when factory fresh, but weathered to a more satin finish.

Regards,  Rick

Aaron your engines look great!!! Those are obviously wires in that pic as they are emulating from the ignition harness. What kind of engines are they anyway? P&W's? You can't argue with a pic that clearly shows one wire. Usually for the gloss pants I will paint a piece of a model a full on color coat and then spray the actual kit. When the other piece is dry usually the kit is as well. If you stuff up the finish on the test piece with a fingerprint it's no loss, just wait another day or so. I say another day or so because my experience with gloss has been dry to the touch for a few days, then whilst working on it and handling, I leave a print on it because it's still soft. That's with enamels though, still a novice with acrylics. She's coming along fine!!!!

Cheers, richie