The Official F-4 Phantom II Group Build 2011

I think I must have built every 1/48 F4 kit out there. lol  I really like the Hasegawa kits.  They have a few versions of the F4, each the same basic kit.  Easy to build, good detail, and not as expensive as the other higher end kits.  And they have some unusual variants like my British FGR.2.  Really good fits too.

Scorpiomikey

Hey guys, though this would be the best place to ask. Im after a 48 scale F-4 phantom. Im not worried about nationality or model number, i just really want an accurate easy(relatively) to build kit. Early models would be better. But in all reality its the shape i love. Any recommendations from those who have built?

Bocks, have you considered just painting them according to the official specs?

by that I mean "squadron trim colors on the top 7 inches of the vertical fins, and the wingtips"?

then you just put the insignia and the "navy" on them

if yes,,,,,first fighter squadron would be red trim, 2nd would be yellow, 3rd (A-4 or A-7) would be blue, 4th would be Orange,,5th (A-4, A-1 or A-6) would be green, 6th was black(if equipped), 7th and up would be Ins blue and/or Maroon (those vary a lot), Magenta or no trim on the Helo's,,,,,,,,,,,in fact the Enterprise is the ONE ship that carried Maroon on her 700 series Skyhawks on one cruise to Vietnam

just a thought,,,,,,,and it's Phantom related, lol

Rex

Scorpiomikey

Hey guys, though this would be the best place to ask. Im after a 48 scale F-4 phantom. Im not worried about nationality or model number, i just really want an accurate easy(relatively) to build kit. Early models would be better. But in all reality its the shape i love. Any recommendations from those who have built?

Hi Scorpiomikey,

It seems to be a general consensus that Hasegawa kits, (except for the C/D kits) are the best in 1/48 scale.  The F-4C/D kits are the earlier ones with raised panel lines.  The newer ones have recessed lines.

Ken

I have 15 1/400 Navy aircraft, painted them LGG on top and whit on the bottom, at this rate that qualifies as my personal LGG era, lol, My eyes were too bad to put those tiny decals on. CVN 65, needs a refit. Actually the decals fragged bad and I gave up before a big move, it ended up with only the basic paint and the waterline.

I love that ship though, the bigger Nimitz ships really straightened out the hull. Actually I like the AC's, they act as second shelves for my other kits. I just found yet another Crusader, so the LGG era is appreciated around here.

Hi Everyone,

I need help (again!).  I was getting ready to attach the rudder pedals and I am not sure where they should be attached.  The Aires cockpit has great detail but lousy instructions.  From the research I have been able to gather, I believe they should be attached at the locations that I have indicated in the following photos with a yellow arrow:

Am I correct or way off base?  By the way, this is an F-4E (Air Force) so the rear cockpit does get the rudder pedals.  Thanks!

Ken

Hey guys, though this would be the best place to ask. Im after a 48 scale F-4 phantom. Im not worried about nationality or model number, i just really want an accurate easy(relatively) to build kit. Early models would be better. But in all reality its the shape i love. Any recommendations from those who have built?

"Light Gull Gray era",,,,,,NavAir from 1955 to about 1980 or so

it spans from F2H Banshee up to early F-14 Tomcats,,,,,before the Tactical Paint Scheme (TPS) came along and spoiled all the fun

"best looking Phantom era",,,,,,,,runs and ducks before that SEA guy sees this (SEA being the South East Asia camo)

Rex

TarnShip

on the subject of the German F's,,,,I did come up with a couple of ideas,,,,,I made notes as you all were talking about it back then,,,,and did some searching

Lifecolor makes an acrylic 34064, so I am just going to use that when I get there,,,,,that's the range I am switching to/augmenting with for my LGG models

I also found a mix for Silbergrau for WW I models,,,,the guy used 2 parts of very light gray to 1 part silver

I was thinking of 4 parts 36495 or so, to 1 part silver,,,,,,just to eliminate most of the "sparkle" but leave a bit of it in place (if that makes any sense?)

Rex

ps, now y'all know why I build LGG era,,,,,,"gray on the top, white on the bottom, small trim in one of 9 colors, decals,,,,,and then the fun part of weapons packages,,,,,,done,,,,,,lol

Tarn;

Thanks for the tip on the 34064, it is elusive green, and I've seen from some pictures how the paint turns colour in slightly different lighting. Some of the F's have a light green but I'm realizing it's not as simple as it looks

Pardon my being dumb, but what is/was the Light Gull Grey era, when I googled it all I got was medical info, lol.  I'm guessing there was a huge paint clearance and the Pentagon went shopping.

I just have to play around a bit more with the paint. This build has already moved to the realm of "Yep! That looks about right!" system of color matching. I already made up a batch of the dark gray I'm using, but I need to get some more small jars for my other mixes.

Yeah, defy the Carpet Monster of his cruel obsession

Hi Everyone!

The carpet monster is denied again!  I just couldn't stop looking for that piece and I finally won!  Here it is:

Victory is mine!

Ken

on the subject of the German F's,,,,I did come up with a couple of ideas,,,,,I made notes as you all were talking about it back then,,,,and did some searching

Lifecolor makes an acrylic 34064, so I am just going to use that when I get there,,,,,that's the range I am switching to/augmenting with for my LGG models

I also found a mix for Silbergrau for WW I models,,,,the guy used 2 parts of very light gray to 1 part silver

I was thinking of 4 parts 36495 or so, to 1 part silver,,,,,,just to eliminate most of the "sparkle" but leave a bit of it in place (if that makes any sense?)

Rex

ps, now y'all know why I build LGG era,,,,,,"gray on the top, white on the bottom, small trim in one of 9 colors, decals,,,,,and then the fun part of weapons packages,,,,,,done,,,,,,lol

Hi Everyone,

Well the deed is done!  I bent the rudder pedals.  In the process of moving parts around the landing gear control handle fell victim to the carpet monster.  But the arresting hook control handle survived.  Here is a picture with a dime to give perspective of scale:

I am not upset about losing the landing gear control handle since I have another PE set that I purchased for other details fortunately included one.

Ken

jimbot58

Son Of Medicine Man:

Hi Everyone,

Jim, you are more than welcome, glad to help out.

Thank you Glenn and Berny for the compliments, I really appreciate it!

That is too bad Berny about the resin radome.  At least you do have a place to use it, but bummer about it not going to work on your F-4E.  On the subject of your radome, is that from the Verlinden Super Detail Set?  I have that set and I am also planning on using it on my F-4E.  Any advice you could pass on would be much appreciated!

Today I cut some of the photo etched parts off their parts tree to prepare them for attaching to the cockpit, namely the landing gear control handle, the arresting hook control handle, and the rudder pedals.  Each of these needed to be painted flat black.  Since these are photo etched parts I presumed that I should use the airbrush to paint them so I would not cover the detail.  I didn't even think about the air blowing the parts around while I tried to paint them.  Since I already had the paint mixed and in the cup, I reached for an X-acto blade and used it to hold down the edge of each piece so I could spray them.  That worked but if anybody has a better technique please let me know.  One way I thought of was to spray them while they are still attached to the sprue, which would mean I would have to mask off all the other parts on the sheet. 

Another thing I realized was that I need to bend the rudder pedals so they will stand up from the floor of the cockpit.  For now I will use a straight edge with an X-Acto blade but I will invest in a photo etch folding tool when I have the funds.  Also, I will need to get some CA glue accelerator to spray when I have the pedals positioned correctly to hold them in place.

Since this is my first build, I am still acquiring all of the necessary tools and skills, which is making my progress very slow.  But my next build should go a lot faster.

Ken

 

Hi S.O.M.M.!

I have a couple of methods I use, one is to take a strip of low-tack tape and attach it face up on a block of balsa wood I have had for years, using a couple of strips of tape across the ends. The other I use is small clips I found at Radio Shack, crimped onto a toothpick that can then be stuck into the same block of wood. May not be good fo PE parts though as there would be little space to put the clamp. I would do any of the bending before painting as it will tend to flake off when you bend it afterwards.

As far as bending, I've done it using a couple of single edge razor blades and a sheet of glass, but a regular bending tool makes a huge difference. I would make an unsolicited plug for products from The Small Shop! Good stuff and incredible customer service!

Hi Jim, thank you for the ideas.  I didn't think about the paint flaking off.  I am getting ready to bend the pieces now.  Hopefully I will get lucky.

Ken

oortiz10

Son Of Medicine Man:

I didn't even think about the air blowing the parts around while I tried to paint them....I reached for an X-acto blade and used it to hold down the edge of each piece so I could spray them.  That worked but if anybody has a better technique please let me know.

Hey Ken,

I've never used P.E., but here are two techniques I've used for painting small parts.  How about making a "loop" out of tape, sticking it to your table, then sticking the small parts to that?  Yeah, you'd have to wait until the first coat dries before you flip it if painting two sided parts, but the the tape would keep the parts from being blown around.  Or how about using a small blob of Blu-Tack (or similar material) and sticking the part into that?  Maybe leaving a bit of the sprue or fret attached to stick into the blob?

Just throwing those ideas out there.  Both have worked for me, maybe they'll work for you?

Good luck!

-O

 

Thanks "O".  I appreciate the ideas.  I like the one about leaving part of the fret attached to the part.

Ken

Son Of Medicine Man

Hi Everyone,

Jim, you are more than welcome, glad to help out.

Thank you Glenn and Berny for the compliments, I really appreciate it!

That is too bad Berny about the resin radome.  At least you do have a place to use it, but bummer about it not going to work on your F-4E.  On the subject of your radome, is that from the Verlinden Super Detail Set?  I have that set and I am also planning on using it on my F-4E.  Any advice you could pass on would be much appreciated!

Today I cut some of the photo etched parts off their parts tree to prepare them for attaching to the cockpit, namely the landing gear control handle, the arresting hook control handle, and the rudder pedals.  Each of these needed to be painted flat black.  Since these are photo etched parts I presumed that I should use the airbrush to paint them so I would not cover the detail.  I didn't even think about the air blowing the parts around while I tried to paint them.  Since I already had the paint mixed and in the cup, I reached for an X-acto blade and used it to hold down the edge of each piece so I could spray them.  That worked but if anybody has a better technique please let me know.  One way I thought of was to spray them while they are still attached to the sprue, which would mean I would have to mask off all the other parts on the sheet. 

Another thing I realized was that I need to bend the rudder pedals so they will stand up from the floor of the cockpit.  For now I will use a straight edge with an X-Acto blade but I will invest in a photo etch folding tool when I have the funds.  Also, I will need to get some CA glue accelerator to spray when I have the pedals positioned correctly to hold them in place.

Since this is my first build, I am still acquiring all of the necessary tools and skills, which is making my progress very slow.  But my next build should go a lot faster.

Ken

Hi S.O.M.M.!

I have a couple of methods I use, one is to take a strip of low-tack tape and attach it face up on a block of balsa wood I have had for years, using a couple of strips of tape across the ends. The other I use is small clips I found at Radio Shack, crimped onto a toothpick that can then be stuck into the same block of wood. May not be good fo PE parts though as there would be little space to put the clamp. I would do any of the bending before painting as it will tend to flake off when you bend it afterwards.

As far as bending, I've done it using a couple of single edge razor blades and a sheet of glass, but a regular bending tool makes a huge difference. I would make an unsolicited plug for products from The Small Shop! Good stuff and incredible customer service!

Son Of Medicine Man

I didn't even think about the air blowing the parts around while I tried to paint them....I reached for an X-acto blade and used it to hold down the edge of each piece so I could spray them.  That worked but if anybody has a better technique please let me know.

Hey Ken,

I've never used P.E., but here are two techniques I've used for painting small parts.  How about making a "loop" out of tape, sticking it to your table, then sticking the small parts to that?  Yeah, you'd have to wait until the first coat dries before you flip it if painting two sided parts, but the the tape would keep the parts from being blown around.  Or how about using a small blob of Blu-Tack (or similar material) and sticking the part into that?  Maybe leaving a bit of the sprue or fret attached to stick into the blob?

Just throwing those ideas out there.  Both have worked for me, maybe they'll work for you?

Good luck!

-O

As I mentioned before, it's been a hectic week, so I ended up doing small tasks on the Rhinos:

Here I worked on weapons, stabilators, and ECM pod for the "G", and mated the wing assembly to the fuselage on the "F", and prepainting the intakes for it. Also shown is my color swatch sample for the "F" paint. Olive Green (34087) vs. a mix of 34079 and Gloss Black. This photo makes the darker one look black, but it looks dark green to the eye. Hasegawa calls for the 34087 but Testors had the second one as a mix and looks much closer to 90% of the photos I have found.

Here the 'Geasel' hides behind a shroud of masking as I repaint the intakes as best I can. Might have been easier if I had done it before adding the exterior camo, but I always do everything bass-ackwards. Or better to do it before assembly like I'm doing with the "F"! Oh, well.

Also seen is another shot of that sample that now looks even blacker-just ignore it!

Has anyone come up with a definitive answer for the bottom of the "F"? Looking back through this post, I find a few different suggestions as to either FS 36320 or 36495, with or without silver added. Another outside source said the 36320 with no silver as the original paint faded quickly in service. Only brand new planes would show some of the silver. I don't know, it's mot easy to find photos of the lower surface.

Son Of Medicine Man

Hi Berny,

Thank you for the clarification.  It does look really good! 

Ken

Thank you Ken  One day I'll get around to finishing both of those kits. 

Hi Berny,

Thank you for the clarification.  It does look really good! 

Ken

Bockscar

Berny,

thanks for taking the time on those pictures, much appreciated.

I am glad I was able to confuse help you. 

Son Of Medicine Man

berny13:

Son Of Medicine Man:

That is too bad Berny about the resin radome.  At least you do have a place to use it, but bummer about it not going to work on your F-4E.  On the subject of your radome, is that from the Verlinden Super Detail Set?  I have that set and I am also planning on using it on my F-4E.  Any advice you could pass on would be much appreciated!

Ken

 

It is the AMS corrected radome.  Below is a link.  I didn't know Verlinden made a corrected radome for the Phantom in 1/32 scale.  Learn something new everyday.

http://store.spruebrothers.com/132-ams-resin-corrected-nose-for-f-4e-phantom-ii-rev-kit-32034-p25446.aspx

 

Hi Berny,

I apologize, I meant the radar package that goes inside the radome.

Ken

The radar package I have is from the Tamiya clear nose F-4E.  I started it way before I started the Revell F-4E.  I have the nose closed up on the Tamiya Phantom and open on the Revell Phantom.  The radar package is pretty detailed and looks very good.  I didn't want to add a lot of PE parts to it as the kit parts look good enough for me.

Berny,

thanks for taking the time on those pictures, much appreciated.

berny13

Son Of Medicine Man:

That is too bad Berny about the resin radome.  At least you do have a place to use it, but bummer about it not going to work on your F-4E.  On the subject of your radome, is that from the Verlinden Super Detail Set?  I have that set and I am also planning on using it on my F-4E.  Any advice you could pass on would be much appreciated!

Ken

 

It is the AMS corrected radome.  Below is a link.  I didn't know Verlinden made a corrected radome for the Phantom in 1/32 scale.  Learn something new everyday.

http://store.spruebrothers.com/132-ams-resin-corrected-nose-for-f-4e-phantom-ii-rev-kit-32034-p25446.aspx

Hi Berny,

I apologize, I meant the radar package that goes inside the radome.

Ken

Oh yeah, that 9.0 earthquake mighta' caused that.

Berny that might explain the slightly flatter section in the same spot on the advertisement photo:

Someone had to fix the one in the photo or maybe the mold tore.  I think it really demonstrates the difference between being a prospect and a client. 

I'll buy another sanding stick and keep the filler handy, not done yet.

Bockscar

As ken said, it's a bit of a bummer to get solid, but if you need nose weight, it's hard to be conflicted about using it as a solid bulkhead to anchor lead. I'm interested to see how close the Rhino Plasty is to the 'official' shape.

By the way, solid aside, in your opinion is it the right shape? Does it have anything they could've done better?

The shape looks correct.  I didn't take a measurement of it as I don't know the exact size of the real radome.  The only thing I see wrong is a large sink area just forward of the muzzle pad.  It shows up very well in the picture below. 

The underside looks a tiny bit flatter. I hope that's how it looks for real, my work will be done.

Son Of Medicine Man

That is too bad Berny about the resin radome.  At least you do have a place to use it, but bummer about it not going to work on your F-4E.  On the subject of your radome, is that from the Verlinden Super Detail Set?  I have that set and I am also planning on using it on my F-4E.  Any advice you could pass on would be much appreciated!

Ken

It is the AMS corrected radome.  Below is a link.  I didn't know Verlinden made a corrected radome for the Phantom in 1/32 scale.  Learn something new everyday.

http://store.spruebrothers.com/132-ams-resin-corrected-nose-for-f-4e-phantom-ii-rev-kit-32034-p25446.aspx

berny13

 

berny13:

 

Bockscar, did you get the AM radome yet?  Is it solid resin or hollow on the inside?  I am building my Revell F-4E with the radome open and the radar package extended so I would need a hollow radome for my project. 

 

 

I got the answer.  I ordered one Thursday and got it delivered Saturday.  It is solid resin.  I will use it on my RoG F-4F.

Haven't got much work done on my build for the last couple of weeks.  Been doing a lot of yard work while the weather will allow it. 

As ken said, it's a bit of a bummer to get solid, but if you need nose weight, it's hard to be conflicted about using it as a solid bulkhead to anchor lead. I'm interested to see how close the Rhino Plasty is to the 'official' shape.

By the way, solid aside, in your opinion is it the right shape? Does it have anything they could've done better?

Hi Everyone,

Jim, you are more than welcome, glad to help out.

Thank you Glenn and Berny for the compliments, I really appreciate it!

That is too bad Berny about the resin radome.  At least you do have a place to use it, but bummer about it not going to work on your F-4E.  On the subject of your radome, is that from the Verlinden Super Detail Set?  I have that set and I am also planning on using it on my F-4E.  Any advice you could pass on would be much appreciated!

Today I cut some of the photo etched parts off their parts tree to prepare them for attaching to the cockpit, namely the landing gear control handle, the arresting hook control handle, and the rudder pedals.  Each of these needed to be painted flat black.  Since these are photo etched parts I presumed that I should use the airbrush to paint them so I would not cover the detail.  I didn't even think about the air blowing the parts around while I tried to paint them.  Since I already had the paint mixed and in the cup, I reached for an X-acto blade and used it to hold down the edge of each piece so I could spray them.  That worked but if anybody has a better technique please let me know.  One way I thought of was to spray them while they are still attached to the sprue, which would mean I would have to mask off all the other parts on the sheet. 

Another thing I realized was that I need to bend the rudder pedals so they will stand up from the floor of the cockpit.  For now I will use a straight edge with an X-Acto blade but I will invest in a photo etch folding tool when I have the funds.  Also, I will need to get some CA glue accelerator to spray when I have the pedals positioned correctly to hold them in place.

Since this is my first build, I am still acquiring all of the necessary tools and skills, which is making my progress very slow.  But my next build should go a lot faster.

Ken