Fw 190 Butcher Bird 2013 (extended to June 2014) Group Build

Goog to see you starting your build Tony,,, Good start.

Little more progress here...

Starting to do some of the fading and detail  work,(wear areas, scratches and chipping) This paint for some reason was being stubbourn, and after 3 treatments of 70% alcohol, wouldnt produce the look I was wanting, I hit it good with some 90% and it started to come around, and finally wound up mixing some Testors dull flat coat thinned with some 70% alcohol and it did what I was wanting it to do.

So far so good... Thats all for now, I will have a nice quite weekend to spend at the bench this week, so should have some more by weeks end... Take care!

Doug

Your 190 looks perfect, Joe! Exceptional work! The streaking looks very convincing.

Nice start taxtp. You'll enjoy that 1/72 Hasegawa. The only issues I've had with mine were some fit issues at the front wing root and the wing fit at the very rear/bottom of the fuselage. Easily dealt with with putty. Looking forward to some more progress pics.

Thank You Joe. That is some really fantastic work Joe. I really love the effect you achieved on your paint with the streaking technique. Looks awesome.

That IS really nice work. I'm starting my French A-5. Here's the start.

There are two kits in the box, both unstarted. I'm doing just one of these. :)

Exceptional work! Just beautiful!!!

JOE RIX

Fellas, Thank You all very much for the compliments and encouraging words. Man, I've got a another round of catching up to do with all the incredible activity going on here.

Blackdog : Allow me to compliment you on your fortitude to repair the rudder. It appears that you are doing one heck of a job on the recovery.

Doug and Nathan: Again you both are demonstrating some excellent painting and detailing. It really is a pleasure to follow each of your builds.

Clemens: Alright, I just have to ask. Exactly how did you manage to empty your entire bottle of Micro Sol all over your room? Was some sort of launching involved? 

I couldn't have said this better myself.  Indeed fine work.  Joe, I like the silly putty mask and beautiful job on a challenging camo scheme.  I finally got some bench time in which afforded me the opportunity to get the frame painted, clearcoated, and decaled. 

I left off where I sprayed the yellow ID and theater markings.  I taped all of these off and started on the RLM 76.  I used Tamiya's recommended formula of XF-23 Light Blue, XF-2 Flat White, XF-66 Light Grey.  Its seemed a bit too light so I added a touch more grey.  I then added more XF-2 and streaked the surface to simulate condensation lines.  It then got a post shade and more streaking with dilluted XF-69 NATO Black and XF-64 Red Brown.  I concentrated on the exhausts and control surfaces. 

Nowotny's 190 was standard RLM 74, 75 over 76 that was repainted in field with RLM 70 and 71 uppers.  I use blue tac to define the fuselage demarcation line then sprayed Gunze Aqueous RLM 71 using the profile in the instructions as a reference (Eduard does a nice job with this...I find their instruction booklet great bathroom reading).  I really do like Gunze Aqueous.  It goes down smooth cut with Tamiya X-20 thinner.  What a shame they discontinued the Aqueous line.  What gives? 

After more streaking with the base color lightened with Tamiya Buff XF-57, I used more blue tac for the remainder of the line masking. 

Then Gunze RLM 70 was applied also lightened with Buff and streaked.

I removed all of the tape and was pleased with how the yellow markings turned out. Then using a picture as reference, I added some exhaust staining which consisted of Red Brown XF-64 and NATO Black XF-69 from each individual stub.   Heat was then simulated with XF-66 Light Grey.  I took my time and I got in close with low pressure.    

I shot the frame with a few coats of Alclad Gloss and let it dry for a few hours....yes...a few hours as opposed to days which is needed for other "floor care" products.  The Alclad product is great stuff.  I then used the kit decals and had no problems.  These were wonderful.  Even the normally difficult wing walk dots and prop spiral went in place without issue. 

It will get a Flory Wash soon and then it will be time to start the gears and such. 

Joe 

Getting back to the 190 build I have the tail attached back on the aircraft and the intake for the supercharger and I'm going to make a wash with alcohol and water to vlean it up and hopefully get it primed today. Washing and primeing are somthing I normally don't do. I really trying to do somthing nice here so I'm going to give it the best shot I canim going srom toys in my youth to a nice display ....lol I hope.   :)

Thathen. It sounds like what your describing. The front of the books states decals and masking foil included. The decals come in 1/72. 1/48. 1/32 and the foil is only 1/32 a canopy mask letters and crosses. The decals don't have crosses but its all pretty cool the sets cover 5 - bf 109s and 3 - bf-110s.

Rigidrider....ya after looking at them it seems getting them strait would be a isue not mention how to lay them out colors wise. There no directions and it looks like there must be. Be 2 coloers layed out in 1 to 3 ways if that makes any sence.

The book its self is cool it covers the jagdeaffle over africa it has 5 pages on some history and 11 aircraft in color in a 2 page layout and a/c history then decals and foil mask. I have picked several of the for a/c and armor from squadron

You mean paint masks for painting generic German markings? Were they vinyl? I've used Montex masks before which are vinyl, and they work good as long as you burnish down the edges and paint in light/mist coats so you dont' leave a paint ridge. Buying Masks all the time isn't always practical, and they can only be re-used so much, unless you tear them when taking them off the model Next time I use Eduard Decals I'll use a setting solution first and see if that helps. Silvering is usually operator error, but I'm a little suspicious because I've done nothing different and other decals usually work out fine for me. The glosscoat was smooth enough so I was a little surprised.

BlackDog... sometimes if lucky you can find "dry transfers" which are usually on either a clear acetate or semi transparent paper kind of like wax paper, and you you use a blunt tool (cant remember what its called right now...they say thats the first thing to go...) to rub the transfer on to the surface. A BURNISHING TOOL!!! I remembered! LOL??? any way they are very delicate and require a great deal of care when handling. I can show you later today when I get off work today what they are.

Now the stencils that you use to paint are nice but require a bit of skill to use and mainly trying to get them straight. They can be made if you are determined and skillful enough, ( mane never came out right) or purchased with nice sets ranging from relitevly inexpensive to around a hundered bucks depending onthe quality and extent the set covers.

Hope that helps abit, I will get some pictures posted of some later unless someone already has some already.

Take care

Doug

Howdy all I wanted to jump in on the decal topic. When I eas younger I never noticed silvering it was all about paint dacal and play time. I did get some on my practice model the 109 I posted I never cleard it.

I have read much since then I see you guys talking about dry trancfers. Wich is new to me.

but in one of my topcolor books about 109s there was a set of stencils for painting german markings has anybody had any experience with these typs of painted on decals?

I found it odd to get silvering in between my fuselage crosses but none on the top wings which had a larger clear carrier film area.

Bdog

Excellent recovery from the puppy munchies!

Nathan T

I couldnt' get rid of all the silvering and will hope weathering will hide it.

Thanks for the decal tips Eric and PJ. I couldnt' get rid of all the silvering and will hope weathering will hide it.

LOL, I don't think so me  

The laws of physics never seize to surprise me. I think you all know those "magic" incidents where you drop a PE part and see it landing right below your bench and then it's just gone...

SchattenSpartan

 I have no clue how I managed to send it flying off of my bench...

Nathan- I haven't had that problem with any of the Eduard decals but some of the Eagle Cals that  I used on my last build did silver. It was on tail swastika between two of the arms. Fortunately, I was able to take a sharp blade and cut away/lift the silvered area without causing any collateral damage.

Joe: Well, I don't know how it happened exactly. I finished decalling one of the IPs and reached over to my desk (next to the workbench) to grab the next piece that needed some decals. When turning back to the bench I suddently heard something hitting the floor and found my micro-sol bottle lying there and the liquid spilled all over the floor. I have no clue how I managed to send it flying off of my bench... I got myself another bottle of micro-sol and I'll continue applying the decals tomorrow.

Blackdog: Looks like a great save!

Geez! You guys are doing fantastic work on those models. I got tangled up with the Dornier GB and haven't had much time to check the progress here but there are some really nice paint schemes happening!

Nathan

Same thing happened to me  with the fuselage crosses, I had the fuse Futured and glossy and used a ton Of Solvaset on the decals which is extremely strong but still had silvering in the middle of the black crosses. I can get hair thin lines with my Badger so I shot the silvering with the mottling colors and whatever got on the crosses I carefully removed with a small pointy brush and thinner. That took care of the problem.

Nice save BD!

blackdog62

ill throw primer on this and see where I sit.

for primer I have modern master and tamyia both latex I would like a high build primer that powders up nice not sure if eather of these do that.

if anybody has any advise on the 2 primers I have may save me some steps

other than that guys thanks for the support and all the help.  

Nathan... man do I detest silvering, about the only thing I try to do if my water slides silver is to hit them again with some micro sol, then tale a sharp #11 or a pin, and poke them full of holes, then apply Micro set over them, It usually gets in and under the decal and helps. Not a 100% but does help. I have gone as far as to cut the offending clear part out with a #11 then apply micro sol and remove it. PITA for sure!

That is why I perfer dry transfers if they can be found. And totally agree about the bottle sizes, Cant tell you how many times I"ve knocked them ovet. My fix was to take a scrap piece of lattice wood and drill a hole the bottle size with a wood boring bit and insert both bottles so they cant be tipped over. Works well for me.

Fellas, Thank You all very much for the compliments and encouraging words. Man, I've got a another round of catching up to do with all the incredible activity going on here.

Blackdog : Allow me to compliment you on your fortitude to repair the rudder. It appears that you are doing one heck of a job on the recovery. As far as the turtles go, my wife and I run a sort of foster home for turtles that people bring in to my Mother in Law's pet store. We care for them until a potential owner qualifies after my wife's Spanish Inquisition style evaluation. We currently have four in the home.

Doug and Nathan: Again you both are demonstrating some excellent painting and detailing. It really is a pleasure to follow each of your builds.

Clemens: Alright, I just have to ask. Exactly how did you manage to empty your entire bottle of Micro Sol all over your room? Was some sort of launching involved? 

ill throw primer on this and see where I sit.

for primer I have modern master and tamyia both latex I would like a high build primer that powders up nice not sure if eather of these do that.

if anybody has any advise on the 2 primers I have may save me some steps

other than that guys thanks for the support and all the help.  

rigidrider and Nathan both the builds are looking good im geting closer just putting along and dealing with set backs.

greg yep the green stuff is def. ugly. I don't get mad at the little ones for being puppies its just what they do. I was doing a lot of dry fitting and it must of fell in my lap then when I stood it landed in the puppie zone. anyways dot some sanding done I throw up some pics.

my doughter is picking up my laptop so no pics till I get it back.

Clemen's,  sorry to here that!   I have a 3 pound roll of lead strip, kinda looks like a small roll of duck tape that my bottles of paint and other bottles fit into that is almost impossible to tip over.  it helps but then I'll manage to knock over a the 3/4 empty can off coke a cola. 

Ha! Clemens, Damn that stupid skinny top heavy Micro Sol bottle. I've done that a dozen times now, only spilling a little bit each time, but still, make a wider bottle people!!

Nathan and Doug: You guys are doing some incredible work there! I hope my 190s turn out half as good!

Blackdog: Nice repair work!

Everyone: It looks like the decals have to wait untill tomorrow, because guess what: I managed to not simply knock over my bottle of Microsol, but send it flying through the whole room, resulting in nothing of it being left. I'll get a new bottle tomorrow...There was not a single build where I managed to not spill at least one bottle of paint, solvent, glue of decal softener... so far.

Nathan that looks great! I just got really started on my free hand mottle techniques with the A-8 build and look forward to getting as good as you and Doug are!! Man that looks good!