Fw 190 Butcher Bird 2013 (extended to June 2014) Group Build

...any clear gloss will do. Not Familiar with Revell stuff though.

well I started on my tail repair in this pic im cutting out the filler pc from 0.5 mm evergreen sheet

some dry fitting

now ill let it sit overnight and then try my hand at shapeing

Looking pretty good so far!

OK my friends... Got a bit more done, I have the break up pattern almost like I want it (I'm sure it will change a little bit) and I'm going to start applying the decals since they need to be there so I can finish the mottle and pattern. I'm going to use both dry transfers (which I prefer) and water slides.

I greyed out an area where the A/C # will be applied so as to look like the # was changed when this ship arrived at her new assigned base.

Being a fighter bomber she has different tail markings (missions) then usual.

Well thats about all for now, I still have more to apply but these need to dry and allow the Micro Sol and Micro Set to work their magic.

Thanks

Doug

Doug, I can hardly wait until I am able to pull off an exterior like that. Sweet.

Dog, I applaud your persistence and not getting mad at the puppy. Coming along nicely. That green putty sure is ugly going on, isn't it?

Clemens, do show us a pic of the panel when it's done, mate. Last go around I used Future for what you are going to do. A) I didn't care for the results, and B) you don't have future over there anyway. I'm trying something else next time, let me know what you end up using. I'd try the Alcad clear acryl myself, but I can't remember if we determined you have the Alclad Clear Acrylic or the other one.

Blackdog:Atta boy Cheecho!!! I love it when something is salvaged that normally would be thrown away. Looking good and keep it coming!!

Doug:I swear your painting gets better every time I look at it!! Your effort and work are to be commended man.

I like that scheme Doug, which transfer's are you using? Are they for the stencils? I really wanna try some at one point. I know there's some company out there that makes dry-rubs stencil sheets for Bf110s and a few other A/C.

Here's my latest update. Glossed and decaled up using the kit decals:

Don't forget the stencil in the cockpit:

Eduard decals worked ok, they were nice and thin, but really wanted to silver in the center of the crosses for no particular reason. Anyone else have this prob with Eduard decals?

PJ?, Jester, Doug?

Hey guys... thanks so much for the kind words, still a ways to go, but I, m pleased so far with progress and I think its going to look pretty good when completed, (fingers crossed he says).

Nathan, your paint looking pretty blamed good too! As to the transfers, I get them from the train section of the LHS, and I did find some on Ebay for the stencils, however, the nationad markings and insignias are water slide. I really do wish that instead of waterslide that I could get rubons in the kits. I really do prefer them. Thanks again guys...

Doug

Nathan that looks great! I just got really started on my free hand mottle techniques with the A-8 build and look forward to getting as good as you and Doug are!! Man that looks good!

Nathan and Doug: You guys are doing some incredible work there! I hope my 190s turn out half as good!

Blackdog: Nice repair work!

Everyone: It looks like the decals have to wait untill tomorrow, because guess what: I managed to not simply knock over my bottle of Microsol, but send it flying through the whole room, resulting in nothing of it being left. I'll get a new bottle tomorrow...There was not a single build where I managed to not spill at least one bottle of paint, solvent, glue of decal softener... so far.

Ha! Clemens, Damn that stupid skinny top heavy Micro Sol bottle. I've done that a dozen times now, only spilling a little bit each time, but still, make a wider bottle people!!

Clemen's,  sorry to here that!   I have a 3 pound roll of lead strip, kinda looks like a small roll of duck tape that my bottles of paint and other bottles fit into that is almost impossible to tip over.  it helps but then I'll manage to knock over a the 3/4 empty can off coke a cola. 

rigidrider and Nathan both the builds are looking good im geting closer just putting along and dealing with set backs.

greg yep the green stuff is def. ugly. I don't get mad at the little ones for being puppies its just what they do. I was doing a lot of dry fitting and it must of fell in my lap then when I stood it landed in the puppie zone. anyways dot some sanding done I throw up some pics.

my doughter is picking up my laptop so no pics till I get it back.

ill throw primer on this and see where I sit.

for primer I have modern master and tamyia both latex I would like a high build primer that powders up nice not sure if eather of these do that.

if anybody has any advise on the 2 primers I have may save me some steps

other than that guys thanks for the support and all the help.  

Fellas, Thank You all very much for the compliments and encouraging words. Man, I've got a another round of catching up to do with all the incredible activity going on here.

Blackdog : Allow me to compliment you on your fortitude to repair the rudder. It appears that you are doing one heck of a job on the recovery. As far as the turtles go, my wife and I run a sort of foster home for turtles that people bring in to my Mother in Law's pet store. We care for them until a potential owner qualifies after my wife's Spanish Inquisition style evaluation. We currently have four in the home.

Doug and Nathan: Again you both are demonstrating some excellent painting and detailing. It really is a pleasure to follow each of your builds.

Clemens: Alright, I just have to ask. Exactly how did you manage to empty your entire bottle of Micro Sol all over your room? Was some sort of launching involved? 

Nathan... man do I detest silvering, about the only thing I try to do if my water slides silver is to hit them again with some micro sol, then tale a sharp #11 or a pin, and poke them full of holes, then apply Micro set over them, It usually gets in and under the decal and helps. Not a 100% but does help. I have gone as far as to cut the offending clear part out with a #11 then apply micro sol and remove it. PITA for sure!

That is why I perfer dry transfers if they can be found. And totally agree about the bottle sizes, Cant tell you how many times I"ve knocked them ovet. My fix was to take a scrap piece of lattice wood and drill a hole the bottle size with a wood boring bit and insert both bottles so they cant be tipped over. Works well for me.

blackdog62

ill throw primer on this and see where I sit.

for primer I have modern master and tamyia both latex I would like a high build primer that powders up nice not sure if eather of these do that.

if anybody has any advise on the 2 primers I have may save me some steps

other than that guys thanks for the support and all the help.  

Nice save BD!

Geez! You guys are doing fantastic work on those models. I got tangled up with the Dornier GB and haven't had much time to check the progress here but there are some really nice paint schemes happening!

Nathan

Same thing happened to me  with the fuselage crosses, I had the fuse Futured and glossy and used a ton Of Solvaset on the decals which is extremely strong but still had silvering in the middle of the black crosses. I can get hair thin lines with my Badger so I shot the silvering with the mottling colors and whatever got on the crosses I carefully removed with a small pointy brush and thinner. That took care of the problem.

Joe: Well, I don't know how it happened exactly. I finished decalling one of the IPs and reached over to my desk (next to the workbench) to grab the next piece that needed some decals. When turning back to the bench I suddently heard something hitting the floor and found my micro-sol bottle lying there and the liquid spilled all over the floor. I have no clue how I managed to send it flying off of my bench... I got myself another bottle of micro-sol and I'll continue applying the decals tomorrow.

Blackdog: Looks like a great save!

Nathan- I haven't had that problem with any of the Eduard decals but some of the Eagle Cals that  I used on my last build did silver. It was on tail swastika between two of the arms. Fortunately, I was able to take a sharp blade and cut away/lift the silvered area without causing any collateral damage.

SchattenSpartan

 I have no clue how I managed to send it flying off of my bench...

LOL, I don't think so me  

The laws of physics never seize to surprise me. I think you all know those "magic" incidents where you drop a PE part and see it landing right below your bench and then it's just gone...

Thanks for the decal tips Eric and PJ. I couldnt' get rid of all the silvering and will hope weathering will hide it.

Nathan T

I couldnt' get rid of all the silvering and will hope weathering will hide it.

I found it odd to get silvering in between my fuselage crosses but none on the top wings which had a larger clear carrier film area.

Bdog

Excellent recovery from the puppy munchies!

Howdy all I wanted to jump in on the decal topic. When I eas younger I never noticed silvering it was all about paint dacal and play time. I did get some on my practice model the 109 I posted I never cleard it.

I have read much since then I see you guys talking about dry trancfers. Wich is new to me.

but in one of my topcolor books about 109s there was a set of stencils for painting german markings has anybody had any experience with these typs of painted on decals?

BlackDog... sometimes if lucky you can find "dry transfers" which are usually on either a clear acetate or semi transparent paper kind of like wax paper, and you you use a blunt tool (cant remember what its called right now...they say thats the first thing to go...) to rub the transfer on to the surface. A BURNISHING TOOL!!! I remembered! LOL??? any way they are very delicate and require a great deal of care when handling. I can show you later today when I get off work today what they are.

Now the stencils that you use to paint are nice but require a bit of skill to use and mainly trying to get them straight. They can be made if you are determined and skillful enough, ( mane never came out right) or purchased with nice sets ranging from relitevly inexpensive to around a hundered bucks depending onthe quality and extent the set covers.

Hope that helps abit, I will get some pictures posted of some later unless someone already has some already.

Take care

Doug