Fw 190 Butcher Bird 2013 (extended to June 2014) Group Build

Heya Bill. I did a little research on that "ring". It was supposed to be there to so the cowlings would have something to latch down to. Just some input for you there. I didn't know about it until this morning because my kit did NOT have provisions for it but the photo etch sheed DID. I'll post pics hopefully by tonight for you. Just don't get rid of it yet!

ooops, as it turns out, those "little stringers" I cut out were supposed to be oil lines. Ahh, they were pretty pathetic anyway, looks better without them.

However, that disc thing between the radial halves that I've been asking about, does belong there. See pic:

It looks like each cylinder clamps to it, alternatively from one radial half then the other. I guess I'll leave it alone.

It takes me a little time to compose my posts and all to often someone posts while I'm composing and ^^^ See last 2 posts.

You know I've got that same picture and haven't ever paid that much attention to it! LOL

Well boys and girls... Here she is. Fw190-A-6 "Black 7" flown by Josef "Pepi" Jennewein. The new guns not finished yet and by the time I get her mounted to the base I'll have it on(an old picture frame from the local Thrift Store) I will have them completed and mounted.

Obfwl Jennewein, flew his entire time (almost) with either I or IIgp Jg51 on the Eastern Front. He had 86 aerial victories in 271 missions and usually flew "Yellow5" an Fw190 A-4. On 27 July 1943 flying this A-6 "Black 7" he, after aerial combat had to force land behind enemy lines East of Orel , and neither he nor his aircraft were ever seen again.

Wow Rigid, she turned out great!  I really like the "opened up" look and the weathering is spot on.  That is a keeper, congrats.

Well, I finally got the paint laid down on this bird BUT..... mottling is a disaster.   I will have to experiment more with that technique (i.e., low 5 PSI, thinned paint etc.) because I ended up painting by hand argh.

Thank you Reasoned, I dont see disaster in your mottling,I've noted 2 things over the years, Lighten your paint a tad because when clear is applied to do decals, it gets darker, and holding the "mask" back about 1/4 in. from surface gives the spots a softer edge.For the up close work, your right, low pressure and thinner paint does the trick. On real fine details I often get real close and pressure up to about 40 to 45 psi. Trick is to not stay on target too long! (ha) I think your progress is looking good...Take care.

Doug (RR)

That's a really nice 190 Rigid.  Congrats on a great finish.

Cheers

Tony

Rigid-Your A6 looks sweet man! I really dig the opened up panels and the paintwork looks great too! That short nose looks pretty attractive on these early 190's, may have to get to my A8/R2 sometime soon!

Reason-Looking good! You're more brave than I as I haven't even attempted my first real mottle yet. Looks like you've got yourself a good start though!

But more than anything else I could want at the moment....

I REALLY WISH THEY WOULD FIX THIS DANG THREAD!!!!!!!!!!!

Wow, she's beautiful, Rigidrider!! Now that's a well worn and battle-weary airplane, man. Love it. I hope I can come close to that with mine. Excellent work, sir.

and, Reasoned ..... Coming together nicely. Some blend sanding and a slight wash and it'll be superb! I like your choice of colors as well.

Man Doug! You really knocked that one out of the park! Just looooooooove those opened up cowlings. When I get back home I'll put your completed goody there in the intro post. Thank you for being a part of this group build. Would like you to hang around as your input and company is always good and welcomed.

Reasoned: Your mottle isn't a disaster. I had the same problem with mine at first but finally figured it out. Like Doug said I cranked my pressure up to about 30-35 psi (you'll have to play with the mixture of paint that you want-I can't remember if it was thinned down or not-a spare fuselage will work for practice). I then adjusted the air brush so hardly any paint came past the needle. The real trick is to lay yourself a "dot" down first to start the mottle effect and then don't stay in one place too long and keep the brush MOVING.

Doug, that's a beautiful 190 dude.   She really looks great!

Gary

Doug, Fantastic finish! You have done superb justice to the paint job all the way to the detailing. Really an overall excellent effort. Thank You for being a part of the GB as it has been an absolute pleasure to see your work. I do hope you stick around.

Reasoned, as Joe and I are fond of saying, "It's not in the mistake, it's all in the recovery." So, I have confidence that you will pull off on outstanding mottling effect. Thanks for sharing your efforts as that's what we learn from around here.

Huh? I would have never thought to crank "up" the psi, everything I've read says to dial it down w/thinned paint.  I would think the higher pressure would cause the paint to splatter and run.  I suppose you all are using acrylics vs my enamels?  I'm to afraid to reshoot the base so I'm putting decals on now and will perhaps see what happens with my wash, thanks again for all the great info (that's why I'm here! ).

Reasoned

 I would think the higher pressure would cause the paint to splatter and run. 

Hey, Guys!

I went to my local hobby shop today to get me some paints for my Airacobra and picked something else up for this GB:

When I looked at the instructions back at home, I saw a little "problem" with the construction of this bird: You have to cut off the entire nose of it and replace it with a new one supplied in the kit. Otherwise the kit seems pretty nice.

I have never done anything like this and don't have much experience in building plastic models, so here's my question:

Should I risk it (with your help only, of course) or should I leave this kit alone? Returning it wont be a problem, as me and the owner of the shop are friends and he is a really nice guy... I could order one of Eduard's FW190-Ds instead...

What do ya think?

Clemens

Reasoned... Cranking up the pressure causes a greater atomization and actually less spattering, just play with the mixture and like mustang said either needle down the flow of paint to the tip or limit the trigger travel to just barely allow paint to flow, and practice,practice,practice!. Not knowing what type of gun you have, its hard to say. On siphon guns pressure up will improve paint flow, but they're not as versatile as gravity fed guns.

Clemens... What are you trying to do to the kit? Not sure if your going TA152 or you mentioned D9*, I have a great way of making smooth even cuts I can help you with. Can you illustrate what your trying to do?

Tony, Good to hear from you, its been awhile, and Mustang, I aint goin nowhere!(ha) Planning my next 190 now...

And to all my other modeling friends here... You are too kind! Your words are very much appreciated and I cant think of a better group to be here building with, lots of good stuff going on here! Thank you all so very much.

Doug (RR)

Reasoned - You can indeed turn up the psi on enamels for less splatter. I've practiced with it ever since I read a very recent article in FSM on this very technique. Although i have yet to actually apply it to a model.

Clemens - I too am curious about the replacement nose. Is it that they didn't get the front accurate on the original mold and thus have supplied a corrected one?

Thanks for the info fellas, will do a little playing around w/AB (it's a Paasche H btw) and different needle/psi settings.  As you may tell, I like using the AB (mostly) but hate to clean it.  Got all the decals on, in the home stretch!

Clemens, if you don't have much experience w/building models (and want no headaches), I might suggest the same kit I'm working on, 1/48 Tamiya FW 190A-3.  It really is the definition of a shake and build.  Between it and their A6M2 Zero, best fitting kits I've built.

I'm sorry, if my problem wasn't clear from the first post.

I'll try to explain it again (with pictures!)

The problem I have with this kit is that it seems to be one of dragons classic kit-bashing solutions:

I'm not that familiar with the FW 190 and the TA 152, but I think the used a kit of another TA or FW version and just put the parts you need to make the other version in the box:

In short: You have to cut the whole nose section off the fuselage and glue a new nose on:

As for the plane I want to build:

I really like the Ta152 with the short wings, but I have no problem at all building a FW190-D9 (I'm thinking of the Eduard Profi-Pack here), if you say it's too risky trying to cut the dragon kit apart. I like the D-13 too btw.

Clemens

,   Morning Clemens... Gotcha now, It looks like they have used an available D-9  fuselage and just added a TA nose instead of going the very expensive way of making a new die to accomadate the longer nose TA.I think(not that familiar with the TA) the D 9,11 and 13 versions used the Junkers Jumo 210, engine and the Ta used the 213 version.Not sure about the short wings, and didn't they also have a slightly longer "plug" in the tail section? Any way...

  If you decide to be brave and cut... No big deal. Get your self some good heavy thread (preferably cotton) score a line where directed in instructions (inside fuselage) with a good sharp #11 blade. You can make several cuts but dont cut through, this line serves as a guide, Take a length of thread and wrap around both index fingers and (after securing piece to be cut) start making a sawing motion on piece with thread,as friction increases the thread will begin cutting into plastic and follow scribed line. While making your cut, your thread will be "V"shaped, in otherwords, your hands will be slightly apart " about 6 in." and slightly below where your cutting so thread looks like an inverted V.  Make sure not to use too much pressure (Thread will break) and use a length of thread long enough to pull approx 4 inches of back and forth travel. Too long a pull and the cut may begin to wander off line and too short and the thread will clog up and break easily. Practice first, and take your time and your cut will be clean abd straight, You will see what I mean when you begin on a scrap piece. Too slow and you get a tough cut, to fast and the thread will break and cut unevenly, Practice and you may find you like this method. I cut all sorts of things from rudders, wing flaps,canopys... you name it.

  Hope this helps, Be brave, looking forward to your progress pics!

Doug (RR)

Ok, I'm in with the Ta 152C-0 then.

Thank you for the help, Doug!

Cheers, Clemens

That's some really good stuff there Doug. I have seen Fermis use that technique. I have yet to practice with it although I always keep it in mind when I'm ready to cut the rudder and flaps on a build.

  Works like a dream my friend, I was shown the way of doing this about 20 years ago by a now departed friend who IMO was one of the best at our hobby. Its hard to get into techniques and you just have to practice. I've found by holding your hands at a flatter angle that you cut slower but are more accurate in 90 deg dir changes etc... Its all practice and experamentation. the thread I use is higher in cotton content and would likely be considered for sewing such things as leather and heavier material like denem. I've also used lighter thread for smaller items to produce a finer cut. Just try to stick to a mainly cotton thread. it cuts longer and cleaner then polyesters.

Take care...

Doug (RR)

OH and one other thing... It works beautifly for cutting covers and hatch accesses. just drill a small starter hole , insert thread through hole and cut away! leaves a nice clean opening with minimal dressing!

Doug

I will totaly second the use of thread to cut with. I used it on my Hs129 to cut the pilots window out and install the sliding portion in the slid back position and it worked wonderfully!

Nice tip on using the thread to cut with, will have to remember that. I can see the advantage of it on something like the window Eric did (nice job by the way) but why is this preferably to using a saw.

  Hey Bish, Personally, I find that saws are too coarse and can break parts, flex, and wander on the piece if not very attentive. I mainly use saws for resil and metal parts. I just find that I have a nicer cut and more contro; with the thread method. Thread requires friction to cut and saw blades have to be forced to cut. Just my opinions.

  Jester, indeed a nice job on the window! very clean and straight. Well done! The 129 looks great too.

 Reasoned, You sir have the workhorse of the Paasche line. The H is a good ole air brush. As you said though a bear to clean! My first airbrush ever was a Badger 350, Still have it, I've over the years now learned to appreciate the gravity feed air brushes, very versatile and easy to maintain. Still love the old H though,

Doug