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Will let you know on that when I can view your pic at home. Got Barracuda web filter here at work. No pictures at work.
Forum | Modelers Social Club Forum (proboards.com)
John, that color scheme looks really nice!
mustang1989 I did have one thing thats been on my mind though. I see most of the painting guides that say to paint the prop blades RLM 70. I see alot that are black but wasn't sure about the color. I don't have any original color photos that show this color. As for weathering the only thing I can think of for weathering are the oil streaks from the pitch adjustment mechanisms at the base of the blade and usually those are just light stains due to the high operating RPM of the props. Most blades that I have seen of a plane in use are shiny in appearance( I draw that experience from the tail rotor of Huey helicopters that I used to crew). Suggestions would be appreciated
Joe, all I've got for you concerning your props is a weathering example I got from my "F.A.Q.s, Painting and Weathering Techniques for Aircraft" book. In it he demonstrates on an Me 109 blade (RLM 70) where he shoots some lightened RLM 70 in subtle streaks from the leading edge of the prop back, with the airflow, randomly. It creates a nice effect. I am planning on doing the same on mine. He did not use any chipping. I hope this helps.
"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin
Why thank you Joe! Never considered that one. Couldn't imagine much chipping on a wooden blade. Paint really digs into wood fibers. Chipping and wind burns on the leading edges are ALWAYS prevelant on the aluminum ones.
Werent most of these cloth covered as well? I know the big paddle blades on the D9 were.
Eric
Now THAT'S a new one on me! What color were THOSE rascals???
Dark green
RLM 70 perhaps?
Joe... Every thing I've ever read or seen about the prop blades stated Black Green, which I think is RLM 70 or Tamiya makes a XF27 which is a very good substitution if need be. I can only remember reading once that in the very late days of the war that some did use black and that (for reasons not stated) was on the wooden props when the metals were becoming scarce.
Doug
When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...
Make Lemonade!
Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...
Thanks Doug. I went with RLM 70. I managed to modify the spinner a little bit to accomodate moving the prop out from the nose just a hair. I think everything is gonna be ok. Just have to paint the spinner now and weather the pitch adjuster mechanisms. After thats done I'll start on the engine cowlings.
Cant wait to see my brother... Take care! Doug
By the way, the HE111 (1/32) arrived today, Its a beast! Its the "Pro Modeler "version, and acording to the good info from Greg and Clemens, It is indeed the old Revell of Germany molds, and at 1/3 the price of the Revell of Germany kit... Well I'm happy with it...Now... Just need a GB to coax me to build! :) lol...
How about the "Still Too Many Props" GB? I'm in that one as well with HK's B-25. How about us building those beasts together? I'll start next week, as I'm going to pick the last AM goodies up this Saturday.
Clemens... Are you sure there aren't more of you? Did you clone yourself? LOLOLOL, You must have a bench in every room of your flat to build on! LOL!!!
Small update here. Got the prop spinner painted black and have the gloss coat on it for the spiral decal. Will put that on hopefully tonight/ tomorrow morning. Got the prop spaced away from the nose. I feel much better about the overall build once more. Will post pictures soon guys, Joe
Hey guys here's a small update on the Fw190A-8 I'm working on.
Got the wing assembly attached to the fuselage.
And the cowling attached to the fuselage. and this is where my first beef is with the dragon kit. If you notice there is a rather large gap there, really no way to avoid it and get thecowling to match the fuselage surface on the top side. So I guess I'll be filling holes with putty.
Thanks for looking.
John
On the Bench: 1/72 Ki-67, 1/48 T-38
1/144 AC-130, 1/72 AV-8A Harrier
Joe- That be awesome to here. I had no doubt that you would overcome.
Doug - Good to hear that your HE 111 met with satisfaction. Undoubtedly you are probably chomping at the bit to build her. But, should you wish to hold off I have some choice candidates for maybe a "2 Prop Luftwaffe GB" that could start up next year when this GB is done. Unlike our good friend Clemens there people like myself and Joe only have the capacity and time to tackle one GB at a time. Just a thought though.
As far as my progress goes I have met the decals and thine are my enemy. My God, These Authentic Decals are nothing short of atrocious. Yet, I am encountering miracles. More on that later as it is off to work I go.
Take Care Friends and Dig Your Day!
Yikes John! That's a hairy one. Maybe a small styrene shim in there would help fill that in.
JOE RIX Yikes John! That's a hairy one. Maybe a small styrene shim in there would help fill that in. Joe
falconmod JOE RIX Yikes John! That's a hairy one. Maybe a small styrene shim in there would help fill that in. Joe Yes, I think that is what I'll do. Now need to find my round file. John
mustang1989 falconmod JOE RIX Yikes John! That's a hairy one. Maybe a small styrene shim in there would help fill that in. Joe Yes, I think that is what I'll do. Now need to find my round file. John That or filling the gap with super glue and then break out the round file and sanding stick.
Thats where the round file and Tamiya sanding sticks come into play. If you sand away a panel line or so just re-scribe them.
Doug, I have only one bench, but it is huge. (2m x 0.6m). I only need a small area to work, so I have plenty of space to store the models and boxes when I'm not working on them. My bench is not accessable untill Sunday though, as I sprayed my Thunderbolt in gloss black, which needs to dry before I can work on anything again. The design of that B-25 comes in handy as well: The wings can be attached at the very end (even after painting) and I heard that the fit is perfect. The interior is divided ointo several segment and I'm going to use 2 Eduard PE sets, so I will work very long on each segment. I'll build only 1 of those sub-assemblies at once and then put it away as soon as I start the next one.
My last Eduard Fw (the A-8) arrived at my post office. I'll pick it up next week and start my insane project. I am going to build 5 of those Eduard kits at the same time (The R2 is far from being finished, so I'll just build ALL Eduard 190s at once)
SchattenSpartan My last Eduard Fw (the A-8) arrived at my post office. I'll pick it up next week and start my insane project. I am going to build 5 of those Eduard kits at the same time (The R2 is far from being finished, so I'll just build ALL Eduard 190s at once)
Thanks Joe!
The R-2 I'm building is an Eduard kit. I got the fuse glued together as well as the wing. Everything is sanded by now, but I still need to build the engine and cowling as well as the gear struts. The wings are not glued to the fuselage either. Pics are on page 111 and 116.
There's so many folks in this GB that I sometimes lose track of who's building what. Yeah be careful on the fuselage to wing fit. Hopefully they didn't mold that thing on Friday at five!!!!!!!!!!!!
Friday at five? Something special at this time? (Being an Austrian really sucks sometimes...)
Don't worry about losing track. It happens to me as well in the 3 GB's I'm hosting as well...
Usually workers are ready to go home and drink a beer or two on Friday at five o' clock. Anything that gets done at that time is usually halfassed. Not a good time for quality work. LOL
Joe Rix... Sounds good my bro...
Clemens... LOL, Just kidding with you my friend! It just seems that you have so many irons in the fire, Not sure how you do it! LOL...
John, if I may make a suggestion... If you choose to putty, (dont see alot of chioce in that one) Get some Acetone(finger nail polish remover) and some Qtips. Work your putty into the gap as smooth as possibly which isnt usually very smooth, Dip a Qtip into the Acetone wetting the cotton squeeze out excess but not too dry, there should be liquid visable but not dripping, and start working the putty with the Qtip. It will cut out loads of sanding and rescribing time. It also has a way of setting the putty alot faster. Then after a brief period to allow to set up you can file and sand, again alot less then you might of had to. WARNING*** do not over do it with the Acetone... It will attack and soften the plastic. You have to work fast but with a plan! If it gets too "wet" allow to dry for a bit then hit it again.
Take care my friends.
P.S. will begin my Eduard D-9 this weekend!
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